Tremmor

Does that strut mount with bolt holes come off along with strut tower once i remove remaining spot welds next to green line or do i need to separate bracket and tower? Drilling those welds aint too bad, much more fun than drilling broken bolt out. =) http://imgur.com/Id2PnBu

Removed covers from passenger side and it looks like its been repaired before with wheelwell from donor car? Lower part felt like it was held together with seam sealer or glue, and top has holes that might be drilled spot weld? Last picture is driver side crossmember end. Do I have to weld bar from side to side to stiffen chassis if I remove strut tower from one side, like its too flimsy? http://imgur.com/a/qv376

Wood blocks if you need to lift car up in soft terrain for extra support for that little lift thingy, gas, matches, flashlight, roll of tp, something to eat & drink, knife, axe, long rope, high visibility vest, cell phone & battery charger, smart phone/laptop, your favorite mixed tape of AC/DC & Haddaway to play while fixing car & posting into "What Have You Done to your Soobie Lately?"-thread. =)

Howdy gents, this is a classic example of: how to pour money and time into car and find out later that it so rusted its not economical to have it fixed by professional but you cant back off anymore. I had my Loyale pre-inspected to find out if it would pass/fail tests, I thought it might need carb adjustment and maybe new valve cover gasket and thats it. Mechanic poked around with hammer and results were that both rear wheelwells are crumbling. Rear crossmember is a mess and he said thats not allowed to be welded and needs to be replaced. Also strut tower is compromised. Problems are on both sides off course. Planning to replace rocker panels as well. Would be a good idea to drill spot welds in strut tower to remove it and do the welding at bench? I'd imagine it would lead to better results than doing via wheelwell & trunk even thou its seems more troublesome. Any dos or donts in this matter? http://imgur.com/a/VASst

It just popped in my mind since I had one in a tractor, its flexible, bigger area for grounding and holes for bolts & nuts/screw. If you go with crimping connectors, protect it with dielectric grease and electric tape so it doesnt oxidice so easily. https://dlnmh9ip6v2uc.cloudfront.net/assets/9/1/8/9/9/5138de3bce395f591d000000.JPG

How about using a braided ground strap of suitable length, drill hole in more accessible location, route & screw in place?

Thank you for explanation! I found numerous tire size calculators and http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html is one of them. Would this 3.2% size difference be too much? I think it might be actually more than that if tread is more worn as these are older tires, gonna check missing spikes as well. Tire Size Comparison metric Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/km Difference165/80-13 132mm 297mm 594mm 1867mm 536 0.0%175/70-13 122mm 288mm 575mm 1807mm 553 -3.2% inches Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference165/80-13 5.2in 11.7in 23.4in 73.5in 862 0.0%175/70-13 4.8in 11.3in 22.6in 71.1in 891 -3.2%

Is it a good idea or safe to put lets say 165 80r13 tires in back and 175 70r13 in Subaru Loyale 4x4? Or should I get a pair of new tires of same size but different tread pattern since I can't get exact same tires anymore to replace one broken tire to get set of four. Thanks for help =)

Welded passenger side rear strut tower in my -96 impreza. Was kinda pain in the butt till I figured you can actually fit your head in the wheel well and have line of sight to repair area. Live and learn

In case you remove jets use right sized screwdriver, you might have to grind them to make them fit as brass strips easily (dont ask how i know that)

if you have Hitachi carb (i have) you can take top out for float level adjusting but i'd take whole thing out for cleaning.

Replaced headliner after diy upholstering since oem material started sagging a bit in Subaru Loyale Stw. Most timeconsuming part in whole process was to find bolt holes in sunvisors clips, for 1st try whole thing turned to be ok and next time gonna remember not to use so much glue.

Before starting to remove transmission we decided to inspect clutchdisc and flywheel; 3 flywheel bolts were backing off and one was so much out it made contact with clutch disc causing those sounds and abnormal shifting experience. I remember torquing them to 75 newton meters (55 foot pounds) and I'm pretty sure there was no thread locker involved as manual didnt mention it if I remember correctly. This time I used it and after engine was reinstalled it shifts perfectly all gears without nasty sounds. I love Subarus, they are so forgiving. Thank you for your help and interest. http://oi57.tinypic.com/2z4ivwh.jpg edit:flywheel bolt picture added

Thanks Gloyale! Easy front seal replacement thread is excellent and looks doable so contected subaru dealer about seal and bearings but unfortunately no oil seal available and bearings aint stocked at importer so order takes too long for my taste. Best to remove transmission and get serial number to be sure I get bolt on used replacement if things go that way and peek inside to see if theres anything alarming. It's 5 speed dual range transmission and opposedforces part numbers don't bear fruit in ebay wise, except for oil seal.

Update: motor is removed and can't detect problems with throwout bearing as it turns smoothly and quietly, much smoother than old one. Clips holding it were also ok. Pressure plate looked ok. Dial indicator measures 0,8mm (0.031") side to side play on input shaft, it seems quite a lot. All gears but reverse shift smoothly and that one needs a little more determination. Also turning input shaft by hand (gear in neutral) is ok. Do I jack car up and try turning with gear in with tires off ground to see if it makes any difference? Unfortunately this great and awesome idea came now and not an hour ago while I was in garage http://oi58.tinypic.com/2eq9xrq.jpg What would be next logical step (besides buying newer Subary, one with turbo)?