KiwiGL
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Posts posted by KiwiGL
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Well, she's definitely blown the head gasket. Pulled the dipstick out today and it's looking like a chocolate milkshake in there.
Might be time for an EJ I think.
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On 6/14/2021 at 3:20 AM, 6 Star said:
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On 6/14/2021 at 3:20 AM, 6 Star said:
When installing a Weber on an EA82 intake, the process is to block off the coolant port that would go to the carb with JB Weld or better...
Not the case here for the Hitachi as the coolant is needed... but in the future if you decide to go Weber...
However Subaru does have some "different" gasket materials and thicknesses. The two intake-manifold-to-head gaskets come to mind. If you get anything but Subaru replacements there, in for a bad time eventually.
Maybe the Subaru gasket is Superior here as well?
Why does the coolant actually make a difference on the Hitachi? I was wondering that.
One of my mates has a Weber off his EJ18 jet boat that he converted to EJ22 EFI, which I have been tempted to slap on for a while now
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Fighting leaky gaskets (again). I just cannot seem to get the carburetor and intake manifold gaskets to seal, and it is really starting to annoy me. I've used new aftermarket gaskets, made my own, used sealant, not used sealant, etc and makes no difference. Car runs fine and doesn't get hot, just consistently leaks small amounts of coolant and consumes it when going up long uphills (I assume because it starts getting a little warmer and the pressure increases).
Any ideas on how to fix this? Contemplating seeing if Subaru have any genuine gaskets left.
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Retrospective post from my Lees Valley trip with the Land Rover club in March:
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On 5/22/2021 at 12:42 AM, el_freddo said:
Get onto that heater core now!! They make a huge mess when they let go. I did two. Learn from me and get an all copper/brass unit. Mine cost a couple of hundred about ten years ago but I’ve never had to think or worry about it since!
When they pop at cruising speed it’s not fun at all! (And VERY dangerous)
Cheers
Bennie
Thanks! Mainly not looking forward to pulling the dash out...
Probably a good idea to do it sooner rather than later though as I sometimes drive in bare feet eg when going to the beach and I'd rather not receive 4 litres of red hot coolant onto them haha
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On 5/8/2021 at 2:59 AM, el_freddo said:
Have now sourced an EJ alternator off a mate for free. The one I have is still charging so no rush to swap them, good to have a spare though.
Next project might be the heater core, starting to smell a bit coolanty with the heat on...
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17 hours ago, el_freddo said:
I swapped an EJ alternator into my EA81. It might be a bit different with an EA82 that’s AC equipped.
https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=49878
Cheers
Bennie
Thanks, the wagon doesn't have AC so might give this a go!
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She's alive again! Unfortunately my replacement alternator (came with a spare engine) definitely has a bad bearing. It makes one heck of a racket. At least it charges though!
I think I'll order a 1990 Maxima alternator off rockauto and do the upgrade mod unless anyone has any better options? Would prefer a higher output than the factory 60a.
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Still working on the wagon... However my new parts arrived, so have got it basically back together. Just need to fill with fluids and give it a shakedown run. Although, the right side intake manifold gaskets appear to have a bit of a leak... That may be where my coolant is going (as opposed to the turbo) so seeing as I've got the radiator drained I might just whip off the intake, cut some new gaskets and put it back together with some quality anaerobic sealant.
Does anyone know how to get the plugs off the injectors without destroying them? I don't like the look of those bits of wire on the plugs...
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Well, after a quick Google it turns out the position fuse is for the parking lights... When I cleaned the dash I must have clicked the switch on the column...
So after turning those off, that cured my mysterious grounding problem. Thank God, as I really didn't want to trace a bad wire.
Alternator is definitely still dead though.
Will swap the pulleys over and keep the good one in there.
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21 hours ago, Silverbull3t said:
As Bennie says I had alternator issues this week, traced it to the LEDs I had put in the dash warning lights. Same thing would happen if your warning light globes were blown, no current going to the alternator field windings so no charging. Although I would think the slightly more modern L series would have a resistor across the globe filament so the alt would keep working if the globes blew.
But it sounds weird as well and is getting hot, if it is the original alt then it may well be on the way out.And having pulled the dash apart, I can confirm there is no resistor across the light...
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So. Have pulled dash to bits. Turns out charge bulb and light work and no connection problems there either.
The old alternator had no resistance between the earth and output posts so I think it's stuffed...
I also have an errant ground on the "position" circuit. When I tested with no battery in it, there was no resistance across the battery leads (which there should be). Therefore I pulled all the fuses and put them back one by one... Tedious.
So will also have to trace that circuit.
I then swapped the alternator over and put a battery in it - the charge light now comes on with key in on position! Didn't start it as I need to swap the pulleys over.
Getting there...
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11 hours ago, Silverbull3t said:
As Bennie says I had alternator issues this week, traced it to the LEDs I had put in the dash warning lights. Same thing would happen if your warning light globes were blown, no current going to the alternator field windings so no charging. Although I would think the slightly more modern L series would have a resistor across the globe filament so the alt would keep working if the globes blew.
But it sounds weird as well and is getting hot, if it is the original alt then it may well be on the way out.Thanks guys. I've got a spare alt, will pick up some globes and replace those, check wiring and swap alt if it's bad.
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Twin fans working well.
However, I think the alternator may we'll be dead.
Not charging battery.
Alternator sounds weird.
Gets really hot.
Charging light doesn't come on (when ignition in "on" position before starting car, or at any other time)
Charging fuse intact. Wires look ok.
Plug is a bit crusty but looks ok.
Bad alternator? Thinking this is likely as it's probably the original one at 455,000 kms...
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Good to see you on here! I used to follow the build on the old Subaru forum years ago
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Well, alternator seems to be ok. Think I just left the boot open slightly.
Unfortunately, the power steer pump has started making bad noises... also has toouch play in the shaft. Have ordered a new one. Water pump also has shaft play so will do that while I'm in there. Glad I'm running sans timing covers!
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New radiator, dual e fans, thermostat replaced, and a bad idler bearing replaced. Just waiting on a coolant hose and extra temp sensor. I have also spotted what looks like a coolant leak from the coolant return pipe where it bolts onto the turbo. Anyone have a lead for the copper crush washers for this? I suspect this may be the source of my slow coolant leak.
Old thermostat was super crusty and definitely in need of replacing. Old hoses also pretty crusty internally, I would hate to think what the old radiator looked like inside...
Then I need to do the diff seals and replace all the front CV boots, and she's done! Will also bleed brakes and do trans fluid, looked a little dirty when I pulled the cooling hose off the radiator. Power steering fluid was pristine... Until I stupidly pulled off the reservoir without draining it...
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On 4/12/2021 at 1:12 PM, el_freddo said:
Feel free to come over and do Ruby Scoo’s door trims. You can see the dirt and dust in them from the various trips we’ve done!
Your trim work with the vinyl looks tops mate
Cheers
Bennie
Thanks mate! Unfortunately the vinyl didn't quite stick to the fronts where plastic bends out slightly, but they still look way better than they did! It now has a flat battery though. I wonder if the dual fans have killed the alternator... Was a warm day the other day and they kicked in a few times. Kept the temps down nicely though!
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Door trims and stereo done! Sounds much better. Now, to do the cooling system in the sedan...
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Well, I have now replaced all four speakers, and made a good dent in getting the door cards retrimmed. Have finished the rear passenger door!
Still need to put the other three back together. Amazing what some cheap blue vinyl and 3 mm foam plus some contact adhesive and elbow grease can do! I also vacuum washed the carpet on the door trims, water was pure filth...
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On 4/3/2021 at 5:50 AM, Loyale 2.7 Turbo said:
I installed 6½" Speakers in all four doors, but to substitute the crappy 4" in the front doors,
I had to install the bigger ones on the Plastic of the door cards, not directly on the door itself.
Kind Regards.
My late model Omega actually came factory with 6.5" speakers in the front, with a plastic adapter ring/spacer. My aftermarket Sony speakers just bolted straight up!
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Just ripped out all the door trims so I can replace the speakers, shampoo the fabric and replace the vinyl uppers. Big job ahead! The old speakers were blown out completely.
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Well, just finished up installing the Jeszek twin fan mod. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125754-easy-guide-on-five-steps-to-twin-electric-fans-swap/
Works a treat, temp stays at 1/3 or less everywhere now.
Used to spike up to 3/4 on hot days at lights or when going uphill.
Total cost, $150NZ or thereabouts. Could have done it cheaper by raiding the junkyard but was easier just to order new stuff.
Definitely worth it!
Now to sort out the cooling problems on my other subie... Good thing I've had plenty of practice with my Pathfinder this year!.... Sigh.
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Gertie (the L series touring wagon)
in Members Rides
Posted
Drove it up a skifield and back, 3 hour round trip, had it at 4 k rpm most of the way up Mt Hutt, and 3 k most of the way from Chch to Hutt and back on the open road... It's then sat for 2 weeks. Without being driven.
I doubt it's the carb or intake gasket as the oil is really milky and well up the dipstick, looks like it's had a lot of coolant mixed in.
I might just pull the ea82 and reseal it as I've got a complete gasket set in the shed and can borrow a hoist and engine stand off a mate. Also have the original motor too for extra bits. I might actually rebuild the original motor as I suspect that's also got a blown HG but without coolant/oil mixing. Also doesn't burn any oil, compared with the replacement motor I fitted which does.
Will be a wee while till I have spare time to rebuild a motor though, am in the middle of renovating my bathroom!