redXTwedgie

I checked the voltage and the ECU is getting powered up. I plugged in my OBDII reader and it gave me a TPS signal for the disconnected TPS cable. I plugged it back in to no avail. The ground from the ignition(with the big coil of connections and cuts and eyelet) is connected to the intake manifold just behind the PS pump. I didn't find anything else in the wiring that needed grounding. The other side of the manifold is grounded via the EA plug below the coil. It actually did start for just a second as I was releasing the key. But it wouldn't restart after. It sounded good for the second, despite being sans catback. There is a distinct smell of gas while cranking. Does the ECU need chassis ground through the mounting bracket? I've tried it both ways.

Well, it's cranking but not starting. I have the following connected: 3 wires for the alternator Fuel pump relay to fuel pump/pump grounded ECU is powered with 12+ by red and gets ignition power at yellow Igntion is grounded I rebuilt my starter and it cranks over real well, considering its high compression I can hear the fuel pump and smell gas up front. . I will double check all my engine connections. Seems like its just not sparking. Where does one connect the starter signal wire?

In hindsight, the 25302 would have worked fine for the top one as well as the bottom one. I have the wiring about halfway done. Will be turning the key tonight or tomorrow.

For the radiator hoses, I used the Gates Flex-n-fit hoses. The top one is 25300 and is 12" long. The bottom one is 25302 and is 15.5" long. Both fit very nicely and make this part of the swap really easy. And they were only 14 bucks each.

I only had time to install the factory exhaust header today. It fit with no issues. It does sit down maybe an inch lower than the EA system. I imagine the OBX sport EL header will sit similarly low. I'll probably just stick a 2 1/4" glasspack on there with a short section of pipe temporarily until I can build a real catback.

"I routed the cable under the intake manifold and back up to the throttle body and it fit just fine". Mine didn't even reach the intake manifold. Just barely reached the throttle body. It only came out of the firewall about 18". About 2 feet shorter than the Impreza one that reaches over the radiator. I'm pretty sure the Impreza one is identical to the Legacy as well.

Today I had some time to get some stuff done. I made it back from the JY with everything on my list. I installed the EJ PS lines. They fit very nicely. Then I installed the Impreza throttle cable that I grabbed. It's at least twice as long as the XT cable. I had to fabricate a bracket to make it adjust correctly. But it came out great. I also hooked up the fuel lines. I made some new coolant lines to and from the heater core. I installed the lower half of the EJ airbox in place of the EA one by drilling some holes through the bottom and screwing it in. It'll do for now. Then I hooked up the rest of the intake and most of the vacuum hoses including my new PCV. Next will be the radiator hoses.

No problem Dan, just name a time and I can set it out for you if I'm not around. Next weekend would def be better for progress checking because there will be more progress to check.

Both my EJ pump and EA lines have a female fitting on the end, so it won't connect w/o some fitting. Yeah, I'm just grabbing pump to Xmember. The cable barely reaches the throttle body, but needs to be long enough to go all the way to the front to pull it to the front. It doesn't look like anything can be reversed on the linkage or TB. I'll try to put a Legacy one on there.

http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/aljezulu/media/swapstuff013_zpsa05ed8c4.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 The only thing you need to worry about in that diagram is the flywheel. Check out the photo above. It may help, or maybe another one in there. Bolt the FW to the crankshaft (don't forget the threadlocker). Make sure it has a pilot bearing. Install the clutch disc and PP with the alignment tool. Install the adaptor plate and then it is ready to attach to the trans.

Today I only had time to drop the motor down onto the crossmember and install the power steering pump and alternator. The oil filler tube does still touch the hood, but not enough to be a bother. I have a list of stuff to get at the JY tomorrow: EJ power steering lines longer throttle cable EJ alternator wires PCV and hose That should be everything else I need, short of a fabbed up catback of sorts. I have a WRX catback that I may see if I can have bent to fit.

Oh, you know what? WHOOPS. I don't think I have the mounts dropped into the X member holes yet, so that might go away. But maybe not, because it was kind of tall. It would be nice to have some time to work on this. An hour here and there is about all I have for the time being.

http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/EA2EJ.pdf

Car is a 1989 XT Engine Block is 97 EJ25d Engine Heads/wiring/ECU/manifold are 95 Legacy 2.2 Cometic Head Gaskets and Delta Cams EA82 Flywheel w/LUK XT-6 clutch set Here are some photos to get caught up: http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/aljezulu/library/?sort=3&page=1 Grinding the flywheel was very easy with a Dremel egg bit. 1/4" with 1/8" shank. Took about an hour of grinding to do all the holes. Dan (Gloyale) trimmed down my harness for me. I have two factory EA electric fans to run in front of the radiator. As of last night, the EJ motor is in the bay and bolted to the trans. Now the fun begins. My first issue will be the throttle cable. Its way too short to reach the TB. Is the Loyale one long enough to reach or the Legacy? Also, I will need to be closing my hood and it looks like the oil filler tube and dipstick are too tall. Is this a wedge-only issue with the EJ swap?

http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=35322 A couple of those links have extensive info

Wow! Thanks for the quick responses guys. I dropped the oil and it looked good. And then I found the cam sprocket on that side lacking torque. DTOH! Tightened it up and put oil back in it and no more EXTRA noise. Back to just good ol' piston slap for me. On to OBX equal length headers and catback and then it all goes in my XT. At the moment, it's in a 95 Impreza for test purposes.

Oh yeah, and all the timing stuff checked out.

97 EJ25 block/95EJ22 heads/delta cams/Cometic hybrid gaskets I have been running my frankenmotor for about 2 weeks and it rapidly developed a noise after sounding great. It is not piston slap. I had that on my Outback. This is not a constant noise. Most of the time the motor sounds great. Then a tapping noise comes in and can go just as fast. Cold or Hot doesn't affect it. Sounds like something is loose inside the block near the head gasket on the pass side #2 and #4(BB half). It's not banging, but kind of tapping with no reverb. But can change in volume as well. It doesn't sound like rod knock to me because that usually gets louder with rpm and this is usually only at idle, ocassionally. I'm thinking a loose wrist pin. Not sure what else it could be. I'm going to go pull the oil and check it, but any thoughts are greatly appreciated. I'm scared to make a video bc I don't want to waste the block. I Iiterally sold my backup EJ25 block a couple minutes before I figured out this one is in trouble. DTOH! Another question is "Can I reuse my Cometic HGs after they've been on there for a couple weeks and maybe 400 miles?"

I have this setup with the delta cams in my 95 impreza with AT. The motor and trans seem to match really well. When I get on it a little, it won't downshift like before. And then it screams when it does downshift. It gets about 23mpg city so that's decent. I' m pretty happy all around with it. EL headers and WRX exhaust soon to come.

That got it working good. I stuck my new frankenmotor in front of the TC and life is good for now.

I went to the junkyard to get a torque converter and found a 97 2.2 (mine 95 2.2) that already had the motor pulled. I yanked it out and was out of there in 2 seconds and put tried to put it on and it wouldn't fit the input shaft. The smallest tip part had 22 teeth vs. 24 on the other one. I had to go back to JY and yank the input shaft to make it fit. The inner end is also slightly different but fit ok. I'll have the motor done tomorrow to see how it works. My TC, you could spin it with your finger and it would remain spinning for 2 seconds. Most likely the source of the noise.

Cool, I'm hoping its just the converter. I'll have the engine out soon and I guess i'll drop in a new converter while i'm in there. Thanks.

It seems like the whine changes pitch with the locking/unlocking of the torque converter. Do those make noise when they go bad? No noise when coasting in gear until approaching a stop when the torque converter has to work.

I just bought this autopmatic 95 Wagon and although the transmission shifts fine, it starts to make like a metal brushing sound as soon as it is put in any gear. No sound in park or neutral. Kind of a "ZZSSSHHHHHHHH". It sounds like metal brushing or scraping metal with a lot of surface contact. Not a concentrated sound like a bearing. Trans works great otherwise. If the brake band was out of adjustment, I would think it would shift funny, but I've never had a brake band issue before in the dozen or so 4eats I've had. Any ideas? Steve

I tried to drill the hub and bought a $20 drill bit that only got me through one hole in the hub. For the record, IRWIN tools are now made in China like everything else. So I opted for 8 holes in aluminum instead of 16 in steel. The center bore was about 78mm on the rims. I ground the tabs off of the hubs instead of boring out the center hole on the rims. Machine shop wanted $150 to increase the bore. I ran away from there. I'm Poor. I probably should have shopped around a bit. The mounting flange of the rim is very thick, lots of meat. End is result is no vibrations at all. Also, I added about 12.5 lbs at each corner from the 13" steelies with 155sr13's. Doesn't quite leave the line the same, but won't matter once my frankenmotor is in there.