Kenneth1948

Appreciate the advice but you're right, junkyard didn't have the Festiva on the list, let alone in stock. I ordered the part and Autozone got it quickly but here's the really strange part: I pulled the spark plug wires one by one to find the cylinder. Plug was firing so I swapped the injector just to make sure I had identified the problem. Sure enough, the problem followed the injector. Of course I tapped it a couple of times before installing but no good. Daughter went out on 3 - cylinders to buy food and it started working again, been running well since! Autozone said they would give me a refund since I haven't taken possession of the part. I have often thought about soaking injectors in Kroil to free them up. I once freed up a stuck Bosch fuel pump with Kroil . . . . but that's another story. Thanks for the help, John Kenneth

I have a bad injector on daughters 1990 Legacy. Can't find one at short notice on a long weekend. It seems they only used the same injectors in 90 & 91 Is there a substitute off another Subaru or another car that will get her around for a day or so until I can get the right injector ordered and delivered. Thanks, all help is appreciated, John aka Kenneth

My post above yours re " . . . need help with diagnosis" has a couple of pictures that might help with the connection for the OBD diagnosis. My connector wire was too short, had obviously never been used. I cut it and used a jumper. Good luck, John aka Kenneth

Problem solved, running like a champ again! Often we forget to post the solution once the problem is solved which is so frustrating when you have a problem and search a forum. The problem was the MAF sensor as Mikaleda suggested. I ordered a new cheap MAF sensor on Ebay for $35 They wanted $30 at the junkyard and there's no guarantee it would work any better than the bad one. You can buy a new Hitachi MAF sensor for $225 which doesn't make sense for a 25 year old car with 200k (or any car for that matter, you can do the diagnosis for $35 then put an OEM part on if you really want to) It's worth running the old OBD Morse code diagnosis, it was right and it beats trying to guess. (Remember the old Haynes manual is dead wrong for this process, see the links above for the right steps.) Finally, thanks to all who replied to this post, your help is much appreciated. John aka Kenneth

Identifying the OBD I Connections: The Haynes manual is no help whatsoever, it tells you to disconnect the connection, you actually have to connect it. And the description of the connection is inadequate. The link above from Mikeleda is very helpful. I ran into the problem that the wires on the 2 parts of the black connector were not long enough to allow it to be connected. I had to cut one of the wires, plug the connector in and jump the connection. The attached picture shows the black connector, connected together. The white jumper is connected with one clip right next to the connector. The other connector is connected to the cut end of the wire (you can just see the wire top right of the circle). Hope this helps save someone some time John Kenneth

OK, that link helped, thank you. I was able to read the codes: 1. MAF sensor 2. Knock sensor 3. Oxygen sensor 1. MAF sensor: I cleaned the MAF sensor, didn't make any difference, I still suspect it might be causing this problem. 2. Knock sensor: Haynes manual says it's located "under the intake runner at the left rear of the engine." and to test the connector for ground continuity.If there is continuity to ground then the knock sensor is bad. Problem is, I can't find the knock sensor or the connector? Anyone have a picture, or link? Also, what are the symptoms of a bad knock sensor? will it cause the engine to stall intermittently? 3. My experience with oxygen sensors is the engine will run fine but with very poor gas mileage. Can a bad oxygen sensor cause my stalling problem? any help with 2 and 3 above would be appreciated. Thanks, john aka Kenneth

I assume the '84 has the OBD I check engine codes and you can't get them to stop! I have a 90 - 91 with OBD I. I need to read the code(s) but I can't find the connector to disconnect. Naru says, "definately the green one, unplug it" Should I be looking for a green connector on mine? Any help is much appreciated. John, aka Kenneth

Herin lies the problem. I can't read the codes. This is a '91, it's an OBD I with "morse code" codes. When I unplug the connector, the code(s) don't flash with the CE light. Please see my post and photograph, I'm not sure if I have the right connector. Rodents chewing through the wiring remind's me of an A40 Austin van that belonged to a friend of mine, with a family of mice that lived in the back of the van. Thanks, John Kenneth

'91 Legacy 200k has been running well for about 12 months. Now I have an intermittent stalling problem. New fuel pump, screen and filter did not solve the problem. Not predictable, can run 10 or 15 minutes with no problem or stall every 30 seconds. Re-starts immediately. Sets "Check engine" light Previous post said this could be the MAF sensor. The car is supposed to have some diagnostics. I can't get them to work. Haynes manual says disconnect connector adjacent to diagnostics plug and turn on ignition. Check engine light does not flash. Not sure I have the right connection? I will try to post picture. Circled connector is the one I disconnected. Any help with reading diagnostics or probable cause of stalling would be much appreciated. John aka Kenneth

Thanks for the responses, particularly the Wikipedia artcle. New to Subarus, daughter has a 1990 Legacy, I like it, just trying to get up to speed. Reason I asked about the interference engines is they pop up on Craigslist occasionally: "Broke the timing belt, easy fix" and I want to know which ones really are an easy fix! Thanks again, John aka Kenneth

1. Is there a reference somewhere regarding the models and the meaning of EA 81 and EA 82 T etc 2. Which engines are not interference. And which models were they used in? In other words if the timing belt breaks on a 1999 Legacy for example is it easy or more difficult to fix?? Thanks, John aka Kenneth

Clean Headlight Lenses for $1.00 I just cleaned the plastic headlights on my daughter’s Legacy and my Taurus and thought I would post this for what it’s worth: Buy a tube of toothpaste at the $ store. I bought 6 oz of Ultra brite for $1.00 Apply lots to a soft damp cloth and clean those lenses using a circular pattern and lots of elbow grease (free) Wipe off with a clean damp cloth. Repeat if necessary. Compare the first lens with the one you haven’t cleaned yet, I think you will be pleased with the results. I finished off with some Meguiar’s cleaning wax for extra sparkle and perhaps some protection. Not $1.00 and not really necessary, the toothpaste gets the job done and you can use the rest for your teeth. (However I would not recommend the Meguiars for that purpose) Next step, replace those old headlight bulbs with some better ones. Walmart stocks 3 – options: “Good, better, best” Sylvania brand which I have had good results with. I changed to the “better” choice for the Taurus and the combination of clean lenses and better bulbs improved the lights noticeably. Good luck, John aka Kenneth

Have been driving car since purchase in February with about 150K, with set of rebuilt injectors has been running very well for about 8000 miles. Tranny has started to give problems: 1/2 shift is fine. 2/3 shift is slow and seems to slip before accelerating in 3rd. Drained the fluid and is clean and doesn't smell burned. 1. I have not removed the pan but can do this and look for problems there. 2. Searching this forum I found references to a transmission filter that can get clogged? 3. Early Legacys were prone to blockages in fluid lines to radiator?? 4. There is a band adjustment but you have to remove the cross member and lower the tranny to get to it? 5. Is the band adjustment likely to resolve this problem? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Kenneth

Is your car AWD? Does it have 2 - senders? Was the other sender OK? Point I'm getting to is - Will one good sender resolve the problem or does it take two good senders? Thanks, John aka Kenneth BTW I was born in Otaki

Don't mean to perpetuate this string indefinately but I do have more questions. I have not had time to pull the other sender yet, the one with the fuel pump. I agree, it's probably in similar condition. Questions: Are the later model AWD Subarus the same or similar? Would it be possible to substitute or adapt a later model part? Thanks, Kenneth

Yes the little "Low fuel" light on the dash does work and daughter is managing quite well managing the mileage. You're right, this cars is 23 years old but don't think the left access had ever been opened. I will try to figure out a fix and publish it if I ever do, Thanks for the advice and info in all the posts. BTW Kano Kroil didn't help this problem. It did solve the sender problem on the '84 BMW. Also, the OEM Bosch fuel pumps are $180 + and are very susceptible to rust in the tank despite the screen on the intake. The pump simply stops working (at speed on the Interstate - ask me how I know) I tried to clean and re-start several pumps but never could get one to work. I put a good shot of Kroil in each end of a couple of stuck pumps, put them in a ziploc bag and left them for several weeks, don't remember how long, actually forgot about them! When I did take them out, both worked and was able to drive the car with one installed. I don't know how reliable yet as I took the tank off the car, cleaned and etched to remove the rust and haven't re-assembled and driven the car again. No affiliation and it is expensive but I think its good stuff..

New information: Pulled the sender from left (driver's side) Resistance changed smoothly until about the middle of the range where the quadrant was visibly worn. I tried cleaning and even sanding it very carefully with wife's emery board but to no avail, gauge works with full tank (daughter's car, she didn't tell me this) but stops working as the fuel level drops which is consistent with the resistance readings. Does anyone have a source for the quadrant part that wears? this seems to be the problem.Also, how do the two senders work on the AWD cars? if one is working and the other not, what does the gauge read? Thanks for helpful posts, I will continue my quest and post further results

Have not owned the car long. Had not been driven for a while. Now running well but we're still fixing a few things like the A/c and the gas gauge. As far as I know it doesn't work at all (daughter's car) and has not since whe have owned the car. I like and use Techron too although have not put it in this car. When cars are not used for a while they seem to be prone to corrosion problems in the gas tank. I have just completed somewhat similar project on an old BMW. I removed the tank, it's easy on the BMW. Hope I don't have to do this on the Subaru! I soaked the sender unit in Kano Kroil for about a week. I know there are lots of opinions about penetrating oils but I think Kroil seems to have some ability to remove or dissolve or somehow deal with rust which causes problems with items like tank senders & fuel pumps. I plan to try this with the Subaru. It's AWD so I will do both senders and post the results. Thanks for the input. I think we're on the right track. John aka Kenneth

I'm in a situation I hate to be in, it's my daughter's car and she took it to a technician so I wasn't there when he diagnosed these two problems. The compressor works and can be jumped but I believe it was not kicking in when he tried to test it. He diagnosed the reason was the pressure switch. I have access to a used one from a system with some charge so we'll try that cheap fix first. Appreciate the advice about not losing the charge.

Tractor Pole: Can you post a link or some directions where to find this partial copy of the factory service manual on line? Thanks, also have oil leak to fix. John aka Kenneth

Gas gauge not working. I plan to check the tank sender unit(s) I understand there are two. Are there any other likely causes on these older cars?Thanks, any advice and information is appreciated, John aka Kenneth

A/C was not working although still had some charge. Removed compressor, drained oil, replaced with ester oil, flushed, vaccumed and charged with R 134. Still not cooling. Technician performed analysis, says it needs new expansion valve (readily available and not expensive) and: Evaporator temperature switch or Evaporator Thermal switch. Have searched usual parts sources and found this part OEM # 7307 1AA020 from one source at $ 73.00 Can anyone recommend an aftermarket part source that may be less expensive. I am not familiar with this switch, is it a common problem? Would a used switch be a good option? How do you test it? Probably enough questions for this post. Any tips or information would be appreciated. John aka Kenneth

Belated conclusion to this string but took a while to finally get it fixed. A set of re-built injectors solved the problem. The car is running fine and idles smoothly. I hate a string without a conclusion even if it does take months! Thanks to all who contributed. John aka Kenneth

Couple more items to add: 1. My daughter has been driving the car and reports an occasional strong smell of gasoline while driving. 2. Found a post on Legacy Central with similar symptoms: Runs OK cold Idles and runs rough when hot. Strong smell of gas Poor mpg (don't know what gas mileage I'm getting) Unfortunately and a common problem on bulletin boards, no information on what the final problem or remedy was. I still suspect injector or injectors on mine inconsistent in operation. Don't have an opportunity to work on it again until the weekend. Will try to publish cause and remedy when I get it figured out. John aka Kenneth

No CEL 175, 175, 175, 180 psi Plugs new, wires near new. Idled like a sewing machine when I started it again cold. Don't know if that was due to fuel from compression tests or runs a little rich when cold. Still idles very rough when warm with strange exhaust note. Injectors look like they have not been touched for very long time. How do you get the injectors out? Tried to remove injector #1 and couldn't get it out without risking breaking something. Car looks like it may have sat unused for some time. I will go through the fuel system but suspect injectors. Thanks for the help so far. John aka Kenneth How to test injectors? 11 ohms resistance?