Helios 1

So, something else I forgot to mention. I literally just drove the Subaru around the block and noticed when i went to accelerate or after shifting, it wanted to jerk while accelerating. It seems to happen while accelerating. Perhaps it's a fuel delivery issue? I hope not because the fuel pumps on these are not cheap.

The MAF seemed simple enough. I took out the 2 screws, lifted the sensor up, spritzed the 2 wires in it about 9 times, and replaced it. Waited 20 minutes before starting the car again. Didn't really notice a difference. Then again, the MAF wasn't that dirty to begin with. As for the locks, I'll try that. I'll take a pic of the driver's door lock cylinder to better explain what I'm referring to. Miles, are those 2 antennaes on your wagon (I saw your pic and asked)?

Ok, I'll disconnect the white connecters then. I'll hold off on the 4x4 since I have to wait for my buddy to put the rear driveline back in. As for the "virgin switch", I found that the 2nd day I had the car. Couldn't figure out why the heck my parking lights were on even when I shut the car off. Thought about it and I had toggled a bunch of switches, so I flipped the switch on the steering column back and forth...had a "face palm" moment. Note: I completely forgot to mention that I cleaned the MAF sensor the other day. Yes, I used MAF cleaner...even though I was tempted to use carb or brake cleaner. I also forgot to mention that when I lock all doors using the power lock on the driver's door and then shut the door, the locks will lock when I flip the switch, but all pop back open as soon as I shut the door. That and the key hole on the driver's door is messed up. It's like the lock cylinder and the actual ring around it separated or something.

I checked the vacuum lines in that area, but didn't go all the way down to the intake itself, I'll give that a go. The firing order is correct, now anyways. I referenced the Chiltons Manual for it and set it straight the first week I had it. Brake components are in the forseeable future with my buddy doing the work (he owes me money anyway so I'm having him work it off). I've noticed thus far this car isn't complicated as it is just unique in it's own right. Tires all appear to be the same with equal wear. Virgin switch? Would that be the electro lock device located under the dash/steering wheel area? The one that if remove the fuse/key/plastic tab thing, the car won't start? That one? I'm gonna have my buddy put the rear driveline back in, then the brakes or bearings (I'll have him have a look first). Afterwards, I'll see about the lack of power. Clutch seems fine so I dont think that's it. I tried that, but couldn't find the lever. I appreciate all the input. Idon't know if there's anything else I'm missing. Actually, yes...the white connectors located directly next to the green connectors, are those supposed to be connected or are those part of timing diagnosis as well?

Regarding the 4x4, theoretically, if I were to put the rear driveline back in and drive the car onto a patch of dirt or something that is not pavement and fiddle with the 4x4 button, could that possibly fix it? I tried the reversing and coasting tricks stated in these forums somewhere but they didn't do anything. i tried the incline idea too to try to pop it out of 4x4. My buddy did NOT have the car off the ground btw. He went in through the engine compartment and under the spare tire area to get to the lever. Maybe that's why he couldn't budge it. Hmm...before any of this work was done by my buddy, I did try the switch itself (the orange button in the shifter knob) and the solenoid would click. Maybe the 4WD was just locked up and needed some off road terrain to fix it? Also, yes, the green connecters are together. I will unconenct them ASAP. As for what was done on the car, I have no idea. The guy who sold it to me stated the car sat for about 9 months before he drove it once jsut to see if it started and ran. From personal experience, I've owned 2 Hondas (87 CRX and 90 Civic) so Subaru is a whole nother world to me. Took some getting used to for a few days of listening to the engine and the fact that it's a "flat 4". Odd, but it's different for me. I'll see about taking the car to Les Schwab and having them do the brakes unless my buddy has time to do them and/or the bearings. The noise I referred to is kind of like hearing water travel through pipes. That hollow rushing sound...if that makes sense. All in all I like the car and don't plan on taking it offroading (have my 84 RC for that), but for daily instead. It's a decent enough ride for $400,I just want to get it in order is all. If Subarus are great cars and worth keeping for 20+ yrs, then I won't mind this one at all.

Greetings to all here in the Ultimate Subaru Message Boards, I recently purchased a Subaru wagon and am having various issues with which I hope some of you can help address. To begin, I purchased the wagon off of Craigs List in the Skagit area of WA. It was originally advertised for $500 and the ad was verbatim: "Its white got the roof rack won't go over 40 mph 4x4 push button stuck on..have title in hand and it runs but i will tow for maybe alittle extra..call me up...not a daily driver project for mechanic...probally a quick fix and flip..." Here's the link: http://skagit.craigslist.org/cto/3871124465.html After asking about the 4WD issue and what else is wrong with the car, I managed to talk the seller down to $400 vice the original $500 price tag. I shelled out an extra $50 for him to tow it to my place and that was about 2 weeks ago. To clarify, it's a 1992 Subaru Loyale Wagon 5-Speed SPFI 4x4 non-turbo (VIN 5). Considering the condition of the body, interior and engine from what I could tell, the car's a decent enough deal. The car starts, runs, drives, and stops, but not as well as it should. Before I get too much into the issues and what's been done thus far, please keep in mind I don't have much automotive experience. It wasn't until last year when I purchased my 1st Dodge Ramcharger that I started tinkering. Since then I've worked on another Ramcharger, an '87 CRX, and a '90 Civic. I can manage air filters, fuel filters, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor caps/rotors, ignition coils, bulbs, headlights, lift supports (hatches), fluid checks/changes, and things of that nature. Basic stuff. I also try to utilize the proper terminology so that I know what I'm referring to when at an auto part store or when getting insight from my mechanic buddies. So, on to the laundry list... - Engine backfiring, - 4x4 won't disengage - Loss of power - Grinding/"whirring" noise in front tires when slowing down - Stalling - Worn bearings/brake rotors? When I first got the car, I started it up and tried reversing. The car stalled out in the clutch-to-accelerator transition. I started it back up, cranked the RPMs to 3k and pulled back into the parking spot it was in. So far I've replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap/rotor, and fuel filter as well as giving the car some love with a wipe down and bath. As of last night, my mechanic buddy took out the rear driveline after realizing the lever for the 4x4 (underneath the car) wouldn't budge. I think my transfer case is screwed up, but I don't know for certain. My buddy told me we'd need a lift or floor jack to get the car up high enough to diagnose it better. After he took out the rear driveline, I took the car around the block and it did in fact drive as if it was in FWD vice 4WD. However, there's an odd "whirring"/grinding noise coming from the front tires. It doesn't happen when I apply the brakes, but instead when I coast and am slowing down-thus why I thought it to be bad bearings. Also, the car backfires, has loss of power (RPMs surge, but acceleration is slow), it hates hills with a passion and will stall out easily on inclines. I personally think I either need a new fuel filter and/or intake manifold gasket, wheel bearings, timing redone, and a general tune up, especially with the SPFI. Again, I never claimed to know what in the wide world of sports I'm talking about when it comes to automotive, but I do follow the repair/owner's manuals step by step and to a "t". Any advice is greatly appreciated. More pics will come soon. Andrew