GeneralDisorder

The backfires are probably from too much fresh oxygen in the exhaust. Check the air injection system that I mentioned before and check for exhaust leaks.

Leaning out the mixture is only possible for the idle circuit - screwing it in (clockwise) will lean out the mixture.

I would retard the timing to 2 degree's or even 0 for the test. Retarding the timing will drive up the cylinder temps to your benefit.

GD

Sorry - wish I had a cluster for you. I don't typically have parts for something that new though. Also - the individual gauges are typically availible from the dealer so if one of them is bad, etc you often can replace just that gauge and not the whole thing..... just something to be aware of.

GD

The vacuum system may be incorrect - but the only thing that really matters is that the EGR is supplied with late ported vacuum and is opening correctly. The rest of the vacuum system really doesn't effect emissions enough to matter.

There is a passive air injection system that supplies oxygen for the old cat's to work effeciently - a new cat wouldn't need it but if you are conviced the old cat is still good then this system must function properly. It consists of two reed valves that are hooked to metal pipes that run to spacers between the heads and the exhaust manifold. Look for the spacers and trace it back to the reed valves - pull off the plastic silencers while the engine is running and insure that you can feel/hear the exhaust sucking in air. If they have been blocked by a previous owner to prevent backfireing you will hear no change.

Similarly if the reed valves are broken you will feel raw (hot) exhaust - which will melt the plastic silencers and suck melted plastic into the carb....

E85 is corrosive and your fuel lines, etc are not rated for it. I would not use it at all.

I would start with 25% denatured alcohol and go from there. You can run up to 50% but the more you use the worse it will run - no power, etc. Also retard your timing to increase combustion and exhaust temps - this will drive up the cat effeciency and will help to kill HC's too.

Rick

Hey Brad - I would say that your catalytic converter is probably toast - usually they are broken up inside or just plain burned out. I would start out with a new cat from ebay - welded into the exhaust as close as you can get it to the cross-over where the two runners from the heads meet. If that doesn't quite clear it up then start mixing in Dentatured Alcohol from home depot, etc - that stuff burns rediculously clean and although you will have to retune the idle some and it will run like crap - it will pass.

Rick

Heh - there is no adaptor kit for the EA81's. The EA82 version requires that you murder your console and looks like dog $hit. Here's a link to what I did on my hatch fairly recently....http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115379&highlight=radio+console

Hey Nate - wish I had better news for you but I don't have any center diffs from '99+ 5MT's - I mostly deal with 90 through 99 body styles and the last '99 5MT I pulled was *because* of a bad center diff so sadly I don't have any laying around here. You *can* install an older (95 to 98) transmission into your car though and save some money over replacing the newer style 5 speed.

GD

1) Grey 14 pin connector with red and black wire rolled up, labeled 10 amp switched- what does this connect to/plug in to?

2) what connects to: yellow 9 pin connector?

green connector with blue wire?

green connector with black+red wire?

3) what is the single black wire that splits in to 2 with tape wrapped on end?

All of the above are diagnostic connectors. The green connectors are plugged together to put the ECU in D-Check mode, the grey and yellow connectors are for the Subaru Select Monitor (SSM) - it's a dealer tool that provides more functionality than the OBD port and also interfaces to the ABS computer, TCU, SRS, etc. The taped up black wires are factory ground pins that are provided to be inserted into the grey connector to put the system into certain test modes. The rolled up wire is the power for the SSM port. You can hook it up if you like or just leave it alone - it will run either way.

4) Where is the black+red wire that runs to neutral safety? As it is now there is only one green+black wire that is labeled "neutral switch".

That is the neutral switch - it's on the side of the transmission on the manual tranny's. It's a single wire that is either grouded or not grounded depending on if it's in gear or not.

5) The black "tach signal" wire is power for the tach?

Yes - that is the tach signal for the gauge.

6) which posts do fan relay 1 & 2 go to, respectively?

They control the fan relays if you choose to install some. You can use the EA's fan control system if you like instead of the ECU's fan controls. I leave them in so you have the choice. They are merely ground signals to close a relay - you can find the EA's fan relay and use #1 on it. EA's don't typically have a second electric fan so you would have to install one and a relay for the ECU to control.

7) 15a start/run needs to be spliced to ignition switch, correct?

No. It needs to be fed from a 15A fuse that is hot when the switch is in start and run. I sugest using a relay closed by the wire that used to feed 12v to the ignition coil on the EA. That can then feed a fuse block where you have the 15A fuse for the ECU, the 10A for the SSM port, and another 15A for your secondary fan, etc. Painless wireing products makes the fuse panels I use. They come with relay controls, etc

8) starter signal goes where?

One of the 6 pins on the ignition switch connector will be hot ONLY while cranking. That is the start signal. It tells the ECU the engine is being cranked and to adjust fuel and timing accordingly for a quick start at the low RPM of cranking.

9) big black wire with eyelet gets grounded?

Yes - any of the black wires with eyelets are grounds and should find a home under the hood.

Thanks Rick,

No problem - good luck.

-Frank

Sorry my friend - I have been sick since returning and haven't done a lot or talked to many people..... actually I'm not really able to talk as I've lost my voice almost entirely. My phone has been on silent or vibrate and I've been sleeping or drugged up for the last three days. I did work on your harness the day after we talked and am confident I can wrap it up shortly. I am once again very sorry for the delay. I promise I WILL call you in a day or two when my voice returns )

Rick

Sounds like you have an intake for a '99 to '01 EJ22. It will not fit the older heads. They changed the head and intake completely in '99. Prior to that all EJ22E heads (90 to '98) use the same manifold. Either you got a phase-II EJ22 manifold or you got a DOHC manifold from an EJ25D - which will also not fit.

GD

Certainly - drop me an email: cropperr (at) gmail (dot) com..... ill send you my address and number, etc.

Rick

The clutch fan - usually they spin with a little resistance. If it doesn't spin at all it's probably bad. I just throw them away personally - they are only equipped on cars with AC. The electric is the primary fan.

GD

You can run either - both are capable of 50 psi if you dead-head them. In the case of the SPFI pump it's regulated down to 21 psi at the injector. In the case of the turbo it's like 35 psi..... you won't get any benefit from running the turbo pump - it doesn't change anything. The SPFI regulator will still drop the pressure to 21.

GD

I'm doing well thanks

The manual is probably misleading. It actually doesn't matter which side it up and which is down. I know that sounds funny but they do have to be 180* out of alignment on the EA82. The proper "by the book" method for belt installation has you install the first belt with the mark on the pulley straight up. Then rotate the engine 360 degree's and install the second belt with it's mark also straight up. The end result is that they will be 180 out. And if you think about it hard enough you will realize that it doesn't even matter which one is where. I always put the driver's side up and the passenger side down and install both belts at the same time. Then you can install the distributor - just find TDC on the comp. stroke of the #1 cylinder (front, passenger side) and stab the distributor in so the rotor points to the tower you wish to be #1. Then install the plug wires in counter-clockwise order of 1,3,2,4. Hope that helps.

GD

No - the '85 turbo distributor will not work on the SPFI. It would have to be an '87 or newer for it to be the same. The SPFI requires the optical pickup crank-angle sensor to work which the '85 and '86 turbo did not have.

GD

No - for the EJ22 you need the EJ22 harness - usually from a Legacy, etc. Nothing on the EA82T will help you for that. But the SPFI is a nice platform to start with - already has the right fuel pump, lines, and tank. That makes it much simpler than starting with a carbed version.

The rear discs are a good score - those basically bolt on. There is no advantage to using any of the fuel/ignition system from the '85 - it's not at all compatible with the SPFI on the '88. Head gaskets are not a bad idea at that mileage - should definitely have the heads resurfaced as they will probably have some pitting near the bottom edges of the fire rings. Check the block surfaces carefully and have the block resurfaced if it's suspect.

GD

First thing you need to do is throw the EA82T in the trash compactor. That's a POS engine and will be especially hard to swap over because it's a vane-style MAF engine ('85/'86). If you want reliability you DO NOT want the turbo on there. That's a nightmare and you especially don't want to give a turbo-swapped car to a kid who hasn't built it and won't know how to care for it. Just leave the SPFI engine in it - that's a great engine. Not at all prone to the head gasket/head cracking of the EA82T.

GD

Sure - we can do the clutch. $240 plus parts. I pull the engine - good chance if it's original you will also need the seperator plate on the back changed or resealed. It's about a 6 hour job or so because of the seperator plate, etc. Now would also be a good time to replace any coolant hoses you think are questionable - heater core and radiator hoses have to be disconnected and if they are questionable that might be too much for them. Give me a call at 503-880-4084. --Rick

Turbo engines aren't suited to off-road use - especially not the EA82T with it's finicky nature. I would reccomend against it. While it does have the power to turn them - it doesn't have the reliability or simplicty that an off-road machine really requires. It will bite you. The best advice I can give you is to order a NEW radiator (two row if you can find one), and ALL NEW coolant hoses from the dealer. It's critical that you don't overheat that engine - they just won't take it.

I can do EJ swaps but I'm months out on something like that. I'm just really busy with other projects right now. If it was just a heater core hose - then replace it and keep driving I would say. I'll pickup some Maxima alts when I go to the yard - probably this week sometime.