Ionstorm66
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Posts posted by Ionstorm66
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Some how my seat belt module got wet. Can't find any for Loyales, found one for a Legacy with the same connector for the switches, but the motor connector is different. Should be easy to adapter that has its just power, ground and the 4 motor wires.
Hoping everything swaps over, but I cant seem to find a FSM for legacys with auto belts. I found one but it stops before the page with the diagram. Any chance someone has it? I need pages 80 and 81 from this book.
I have the Loyale and XT books with the diagrams. -
Any one try these? They are the right size and MTs. I have the Forceum MT's and can tell they are narrower.
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On 11/29/2022 at 4:34 PM, TRAVIS75 said:
Have you or anyone you know ran these Forceum tire? I've been looking at them for about a month now, but I've never run anything but factory size tires on my 89 gl. Hesitant only because I'm not sure if they would rub, I have a driveway that has a rather extreme angle you have to take to enter the road.
they are much thicker than normal so be aware the ride will be worst.
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Could be the coil fuse.
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This might sound dumb, but try cheap rump roast fluid. I used 80w90 out of a 5 gallon pail a buddy had. It was gl4+gl5 rated, smelled like hell. It made my trans so quiet I found out I needed a pilot bearing lol.
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On 9/20/2022 at 3:18 AM, Steptoe's photos said:
The brackets - are these due to a lift you have ? Now, I am curious as to how you applied the urethane in order to preserve the joint.
Thanks for coming back with a follow up and pics
First post says 4 inch lift and EJ swap.
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5 hours ago, Heater said:
Well not the coil, the injector. However about a couple of weeks ago a friend of mine educated me on how fuel injection works. In theory I thought I had solid ground. However my theorys are usually flawed and nothing more than a stupid idea. So yes the ecu has given up the ghost. At this point prolly junk the motor and ecu system. Maybe the entire interior and turn it into a Baja racer lol. Thanks guys for the help and constructive criticism.
If you need an ECU let me know, I think I have a manual spfi spare.
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You could also just get good tint on the glass, it will reject almost all of the thermal energy.
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Yes also of you swap most the major components from one car to the other, including the vin plate, you get issued a NEW vin. You must show them both vin plated, attached and unaltered, and they issue you a new vin and a rebuilt title. Then your title looks crazy as they list all 3 vins on one.
Been there done that on trucks. Swapping good cabs on to good drive train frames.
Note if they catch you with an illegally altered vin, not only is it a felony, the car gets crushed. This is the federal government, they don't codswallop around.
Do you not remember them collecting all the illegally imported GTRs and crushing them?
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I run walmart douglas tires. They are like $45 bucks a pop, and I get over 20K a each even with a crappy rear alignment. You can also get the 165/80R13 Forceum MTs for <$100 each on EBAY when they are instock. They are durable as hell, and are truck tires rated for 40% more load than the normal car tires 1400 vs 1000 pounds.
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The 1 wire coolant sensor is for the gauge, and the two wire is for the ECU.
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Start with 2 running cars if it's for first swap. Photo/video everything and write down everything.
What I have always done for any swap is get the ECU/wiring out of the donor car, label/document all the connectors, and with any wire cut, label both sides!
Then when the ECU and wiring out of the donor car. Plug it back into the engine and get it running. If it doesn't work you can go though anything you cut and have both sides. You can hook it all back up until it fixes the issue.
Then with everything hooked up in the recipient car get all your measurements and wiring labeled while it's still running and you can test things. Don't do anything to the wiring in the car yet.
Do the mechanical transplant next. Get it all in, plumbed and read to run. Then get it running with the unmodified hardness from the donor. It should work the same as when it was in the other car. Fix any wiring/fuel issues first so it runs fine.
THEN pull the wiring out of the recipient car and merge the hardness.
By doing it in stages and keeping it running at each stage you can reduce the possible issues to troubleshoot.
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21 hours ago, ferp420 said:
i wouldent consider that a failure but yes these cars seem to have horable grounds ive never seen a car so sensitive but ya any loose ground reeks havoc on the system
If you keep trying to crank it with the loose ground, it will burn up the transistor.
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1 hour ago, ferp420 said:
i wouldent consider that a failure but yes these cars seem to have horable grounds ive never seen a car so sensitive but ya any loose ground reeks havoc on the system
Yeah I my experience adding a ground from the battery to alternator, makes the alternators last twice as long! The replacement one I got last time has a extra tapped hole with a earth logo on it lol.
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40 minutes ago, ferp420 said:
yes you can pulse the spark on the distributor manualy if you just want to test to se if you have spark just disconect the power or maybe its the negative lead ether way one will triger the spark discharge
the ignition system on the loyal isent much different than a vw after installing the electronic ignition modual the fuel injection and the ignition dont have alot to do with each other
if you dont have spark its usualy ether the coil mostly the coil or the electronic pick up inside the dizzy
The #1 failure I see with no spark is the coil bracket having bad ground, which keeps the ignition transistor from working.
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On 7/19/2022 at 12:10 AM, Heater said:
Here is an interesting question. Anybody know what the wire sends the pulse directly off the distributor?? In (my) theory you should be able to bypass the ecu. The wire that sends the timing to the ecu from the distributor. Another from the coil. Any thoughts on this? All criticism will be accepted no hard feelings.
If you have pulse at the dizzy, and no spark, check the coil transistor. Its attached to the coil bracket. They bracket comes loose, which is the ground for the transistor, and that burns out the transistor.
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I've pulled oem axles off at junk yards with torn boots and rusty cvs. Pull them apart, wire wheel all the rust off, clean and repack. They will run 50k+. You can tell the Subaru axles by the shape of the part between the cv and diff, all the aftermarket ones are slightly different.
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If the ac and windows quit working, then I would check grounds.
11 is Crank Angle No Reference Pulse
13 is Crank Angle No Position Pulse
14 is Injector #1 abnormal injector output
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Also make sure there is a screw in the rotor. The screw can fall out and the dizzy wont work as the rotor wont spin.
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Look for some 15x6 wheels with about 0.5 to 1 inch of offset(3.5-4" backspacing).
Those fit my ea82 wagon like a glove, running 175/55R15, the tires are the exact same size as the stock 175/70R13's.
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Accumulators are used on systems with orifice tubes, the orifice is a fixed metering device, so if the evaporator gets too cold, liquid refrigerant can exit the evaporator. This will damage the compressor, as it can only compress gases. The accumulator sits between the evaporator and compressor, and allows the liquid to expand. They also contain the desiccant and filter that would be in a filter drier.
EA81/82 have temperature controlled expansion valves, so they don't need one. The expansion valve replaces the orifice tube. It has a capillary tube that sits on the evaporator. When the capillary cools it closes the expansion valve so the refrigerant is always a gas in the evaporator. So you only need a drier to dry and clean the refrigerant.
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You have the car in 4th and the motor is turning, is the car moving? You might need to adjust the brakes or get some chocks.
You can also try "impacting" it by rocking the car with the bar+pipe against the ground. Just make sure the car can't roll away once its free. I sent a breaker bar though a rad like that once!
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Rear cv axle questions and compatibility, and sources for remaned ones
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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you can drive a long long time with a bad rear wheel bearing. I had one strip the threads holding the nut in, and ran it for 20k+ miles before getting a new control arm.
Also you just need a giant hammer to get the axle out. Ive hit the axles so hard the car slides to get them out.