Ionstorm66
-
Posts
415 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
11
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Ionstorm66
-
-
2 hours ago, KiwiGL said:
New radiator, dual e fans, thermostat replaced, and a bad idler bearing replaced. Just waiting on a coolant hose and extra temp sensor. I have also spotted what looks like a coolant leak from the coolant return pipe where it bolts onto the turbo. Anyone have a lead for the copper crush washers for this? I suspect this may be the source of my slow coolant leak.
Old thermostat was super crusty and definitely in need of replacing. Old hoses also pretty crusty internally, I would hate to think what the old radiator looked like inside...
Then I need to do the diff seals and replace all the front CV boots, and she's done! Will also bleed brakes and do trans fluid, looked a little dirty when I pulled the cooling hose off the radiator. Power steering fluid was pristine... Until I stupidly pulled off the reservoir without draining it...
Not the best fix but you can refurb crush washers. Anneal them by heating cherry red and dropping in a bucket of water. Then use sandpaper on a flat surface like plate glass, and flatten both sides.
-
1
-
-
Could of lost a few teeth on the timing belt, so its skipping around. Pull the dizzy cap and make sure the rotor spins evenly.
-
1
-
-
59 minutes ago, 6 Star said:
You talkin' 'bout the Mustache Bar or the Torsion Bar?
Have seen the Mustache Bar Bushings repaired/replaced with re-purposed strips of thick rubber, with a hole cut through the middle of them.
Edit: ...there isn't a torsion bar in EA82s, D'oh...
You're talking about part # 9, rear trailing arm?
https://www.subaruparts.com/v-1992-subaru-loyale--base--1-8l-h4-gas/rear-suspension--rear-suspension
Part 10 is the rear subframe/trailing arm mount. I know the round hole in the front has a rubber bushing like the mustache bar/diff brace.
Maybe ea81s are different, but there is no way to use a strip of rubber to replace the bushings on a ea82 mustache bar. That are a pretty standard shaped bushing. Round bush with flared ends.
-
If the pinouts are different you can take the extra connectors from the harnesses you are using and make an adapter without having to modify the ones you're using.
Take the light side from the 86 and body aide from the donor. Make any wiring change you need between the two, and connect it in the middle.
-
Is there anything I can use to replace the bushings on the rear subframe? I replaced all the control arm and diff bushings. The ones on the subframe are shot, and the subframe just sits on the body It lifts off the body over a half inch of I jack the car up, which means it's moving around while driving.
-
9 hours ago, Loyale 2.7 Turbo said:
Unless you used other Toyota Shock Absorber than the one I listed, I don't see any imposibilities,
I've installed said Toyota Shock Absorber with Honda coil Springs several times so far,
each time flawlessly, without the need of cutting anything.
Kind Regards.
It isn't a issue with the shock, they are the same length as the stock ones for spring perch to top mount. It's the springs. Uncut they coils are touching each other when installed. This makes it impossible to remove the compressor.
-
If there is a vacuum line going to the FPR disconnect it and plug the engine side vaccum line.
Did you hook up any of the EVAP system if the car has it? If so do the same for it.
After those two it has to be injectors.
Did the oil smell like fuel before you tried to start it? If so then leaky injectors. If not ecu is flooding for some reason, pull codes.
-
2
-
-
1 hour ago, idosubaru said:
Not "all" of us were. Carfreak wasn't, and I wasn't focused on the cutting of the springs - just the seating and installation. Any time you say "cut springs" people in automotive world loose their heads and tend to relay anecdotes more than personal experience.
So it was just the bushings? You didn't have any tire wear with bushings that bad?
Tire wear was not terrible. Just burnt the outside corners off.
-
Idk how y'all are missing the face that the cut springs are the same length as the stock springs. The Accord springs have a longer uncompressed length than the stock ones. I only cut 1.5 coils off, making the same length.
If I didn't cut the accord springs they were impossible to install on the Toyota struts. After compressing the springs and installing on the strut, there isn't enough room between the coils to remove the compressor. I guess I didn't really explain that correctly. So unless I wanted to scrap a compressor for each strut, they would never of worked uncut.
Also the springs and struts ARE NOT bottoming out. The spring perch was hitting the body because the bushings were clapped out. After replacing all 4 rear control arm bushings the slamming is gone. I will post some pictures later of the damage to the body from the spring perch.
-
Also to add to the cut springs. Cutting the spring dose lower it's total weight capacity. They are rated in pounds per inch of compression.
Taking a stock spring and cutting it to lower a car will result in it bottoming out on every bump due to the lowered weight capacity.
Taking a longer, stiffer than stock spring, cutting it down is not the same.
The stock springs are 196 lb/in, the accord springs I used are 279 lb/in. Stock springs are 12 inches, accord 13, cut to 12. My cut springs are the same free height as the stock springs, but 70% stiffer! Of course they will give you a worst ride if the car weight isn't enough to compress them, but my travel is the same as stock.
-
10 hours ago, Loyale 2.7 Turbo said:
That is due to this:
You cut off part of the Springs!
When you cut a coil spring, you loose movement because the weight of the car goues to less long coil, and the ride becomes rigid as hell, as if your subie doesnt have coil springs. That is the reason why I always adviced against cutting coil springs at all...
...the longer they are, the softer the ride will be, as they distribute weight onto a longer coil springs.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0303-springs-ride-quality/
Kind Regards.
The springs aren't bottoming out. They aren't fully compressing, and the bump stops aren't being hit. The struts aren't bottoming out either. Cutting a spring only worsens the ride when they bottom out.
What actually was happing is the bushings were 100% clapped out. This was causing the bottom spring perch to hit the body, because the agliment was super super cambered in. I have replaced every bit of rubber in the suspension with superpro polys. It's amazing how much better the car feels.
-
1 hour ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:
another question, how are the bearings? They are probably crunchy and going bad.
The parts are brand new, bearings feel fine.
-
1
-
-
The loyale ones are different. The is a cone shaped steel mount that bolts to the car, and the rubber fits inside that. There is no way for the rubber cone to go through the steel mount into the hood. It could become unloaded, and fall downwards.
-
1
-
-
Just now, idosubaru said:
Were they aftermarket? I’ve seen horrible after market mounts and struts but that might take the cake !
Can you reuse the originals rather than repair these?
Can you weld them - just need a couple bicycle spokes. Then fill with window weld. That might be what I’d do for such a short turn around.
The stock ones and the aftermarket ones have not metal in them. It's just rubber, which is why I am trying the window weld.
-
14 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
weld some metal spokes just to get them driveable.
I’ve seen new aftermarket strut tops fail in less than a week - strut rod straight through the strut mount until it bottoms out on rear unibody. I wouldn’t do it.
all that being said - how badly did it drive before you pulled them and how much/type driving do you need from it? Maybe some of that bushing material they use to repack rear diff bushings would work (assuming it’s window weld?).
what I do living in a rural area now differs from what is do when I commuted in DC for work.
Talking about the front strut mounts. They were like that in the box. Looks like they didnt get a good bond when they were made.
-
1
-
-
So doing my front struts, and both of the new strut tops are seperated. The top of the mount is not attached to the rubber. Can't get replacements until next week. I'd hate to reassemble with the old tops, only to pull it back apart.
Thinking of just smearing some windshield weld in there, think that will attach them?
-
So after 6 months something is definitely wrong in the rear end.
The handing is very poor, and on anything other than a minor bump it slams in the back.
It isn't hitting the bump stops. I chalked them and got no transfer.
I think either the springs are compressing fully and binding, or the struts are bottoming out. Don't really know how to check for either, but it's worst than the stock setup hitting the bump stops.
-
1 hour ago, 6 Star said:
Ya don't jack from that!
Thats the rocker panel...
Further under the car you will see actual frame, use a piece of wood as a buffer between it and the jack.
Or lift from the crossmembers, lower control arms...
Frame? What frame, its unibody. That is where you are supposed to jack from. You need a pinch weld adapter for most floor jacks to lift from there, they are about ~$20. Or you can get some 1/4" wall 2" square tubing and cut a notch in it. Don't forget to get adapters for your jack stands too.
Most hack shops just jack on the pinch weld and roll it over, right on the rocker and dent that, or worst yet on the oil pan/diff.
-
My passenger rear spring started running the body after I put it all back together. I scribed the alignment section of the arm, so it's back where it was. What else could cause it to get closer to the body?
-
Managed to get the drum off. I'm thinking best course is to pull the nut off the back of the hub and just try and press the brearings and stub out as one. Then cut the brearings of the stub, and grid down the end so the nut will clear.
-
20 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
Get under there and grab it and thrust it towards the diff and the hub - is there any play? If it's just a ring of slight corrossion then it might work, but if it's got consistent corrossion that's going to pull across the entire splined area even a little movement isn't going to free the entire thing.
So you try a little and see what happens. Here's the issue:
If it's rusty - like if the car is from the north - sometimes they won't budge with smashing with a hammer and you'll compress the threads so much that the axle nut won't thread back on and the end will be mushroomed out enough that it won't pull through the hub. So yeah you can try bashing it - but don't do it so hard that the end threads start to comrpess and mushroom out.
You're in florida - rust that bad isn't going to be as common as it is up here, but there are plenty of northern transplants down there as well.
In these cases a torch is your friend unless you love pounding and getting creative - those are beastly time sucking jobs.
Car is from new hampshire. Lucky the under side has about 1/2" of rubber under coat from the PO so no rust there. But everywhere that isn't coated is rusted. Takes ages to free up nuts and bolts. I already almost runied the threads trying to free it up. I'm almost at the point of pulling the trailing arm and pressing it out.
-
7 minutes ago, skishop69 said:
Your best bet is a slide hammer if you have access to one. I believe you can rent them from O'Reillys or Autozone. Another trick is to get a BFH and hit the face of the drum as hard as you can repeatedly. This will 'shock' the drum loose from the axle. Or should... It's almost always what we do in the shop.
Slide hammer didn't get me anywhere, just wanted to pull the car off the lift. Dose the stub axle pull out or push in? I have the cv axle removed so it should come out of the bearings.
-
So I'm in the process of stripping my donor car down. The rear hud/drum are super duper stuck on the axle. Dose the axle have enough inward travel to hammer it into the hub? I feel like I'm going to break the drum if I keep trying to hammer it off. It isn't the pads as I backed the tesnioner off and the drum rotates freely.
-
How much rotation is too much for a cv joint? I have a few degrees on my rear inners. What to know if that's too much before I degrease and boot them.
Suspension improvements for Subaru Loyale
in Suspension
Posted · Edited by Ionstorm66
Got everything swapped over and it's all good now. My bushing were totally shagged out. I also trimmed the spring perches on the rear struts just to be sure.
You can see the undercoat on the perch.
Here is all the rubbing that was happening. When I was on a corner, and hit a bump the perch was going under the lip and slamming.
All the rear bushings looked like this. This is with the car off the ground, so it had to get worse with some weight.