Alf

I have got one of that manual, it's quite informative. It's ISBN number is 1563922037 At Amazon it's $15 but I bought it on Ebay for $5 :cool: Here is the link to Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1563922037/104-2798871-6476731?v=glance

Just as I thought! I'm very happy that you've confirmed this. I was thinking about this, because half of the covers were broken, but I just got some covers which are in decent shape, so I think I will go with them. Thanks for the two cents anyway. Yes, I did put some sealant, it's fine now, I think. So you say, I have to drive the car (after debugged the timing) for a longer distance, and hope the ticking goes away totally? It's easy for me, because my exhaust has about three rust-holes minimum. Thanks for the words, I really appreciate them!! Of course I will continuously update my story

I don't have pressure indicator in the dash, only a warning lamp. But before, the lamp came on even 3500 rpm or higher. Now about 600 rpm or lower it doesn't so I think the pressure is OK. I have very worn camshaft on the ticking side, may be that causes the faint noise. Anyhow I will measure the oil pressure with a calibrated external device soon. My problem is now this engine seizing and the correctly unadjustable ignition, and it's very doubtful to me that it's the timing. Can it be? edit: I'm very sorry for my english, under "seizing" I mean that the engine runs (doesn't stop totally), but at every third turn it stops for a millisecond, and runs well, stops for a millisecond, runs well and so on.

update: I've got a used pump, disassembled, changed the seals and other stuff in/on it, reassembled. It works fine, so now I have normal oil pressure. It doesn't seem to leak so much, but I didn't drove the car to tell this exactly. TOD hasn't gone yet, but now it sounds better, now my exhaust is louder than my lifters. Question: is that possible that wrong timing (I mean, on the driver side camshaft the sprocket is misaligned, may be 1 tooth only) makes the engine to seize while driving? It does run, but seizes sometime. Also, some jangling can be heard from the engine while accelerating, and I couldn't set the timing correctly, one cylinder doesn't work (it was working fine before I took apart the timing). Any thoughts?

Yes, please post the pics about the seat reconstruction, I'm very interested Timing belt change isn't a big thing (on EA82 I know), for two weeks I was doing it 2 times daily, on the same engine. Now I can almost do it with eyes shut.

Thanks for the link to the manual! You can never have enough documentation.

Great! It seems very easy to fabricate... can't wait to make one!

So it's very important to face the "B" side to the engine? The leaking is something else, I've checked all the gaskets/seals/plugs, all is OK, so I just can't understand where the oil comes from. PS: I did the timing upon your tech article about timing belts Thanks very much for the useful information!

OK, yesterday I reassemled everything. Timing is correct, everything works. But it still leaks at the oil pump, not enough oil pressure and TOD isn't gone. Is it very important to face the oil pump's rotor's marked ("B") side to the engine or not? Because as I remember, I faced it to the oil pump... Any ideas?

Oh, I have a question about timing. If the inner plastic cover is broken, how can I be sure that the camshaft is in position when installing the new belt?

Still going crazy :-\ Update: You won't believe this!!! If somebody sits on the front passenger seat, the windows work perfectly from any swith to any door!! What the heck?!! AAArrrghhh

Here I am again. So, first, I only wanted to do the oil pump. Got the mickey-gasket, took out the pump. Chenged the gasket and the big O ring and the seal ring of the oil pump shaft. Reassembled, tried out. Runs fine, oil leaks as well as before, but the ticking hasn't gone, just the noise was a little lower. I went for a test drive, and the timing belt split. Towed the car home, and got drunk. The second turn, I decided to take the oil pump again, reseal everything, after that take down the cam tower and check what's wrong, and also change the faulty HLAs. Oh, I almost forgot: of course it's the driver's side, so no room, but a bunch of wires, vacuum hoses, and other stuff to take away. Anyway, with the cam tower off, I saw that one of the HLAs is stucked (it doesn't move at all, it's in the upper stretched position), and one other HLA has lost it's cap. Fine. Changed these two, changed the O ring on the cam tower, reassembled everything (resealed well every mating surface). Took the new timing belt to put into place, but I realized that it is for the passenger side (some teeth shorter than the other), so I can't finish the boogie yet. Today I had it changed at the store, in the evening I hope I will finish all, and can do a test run. I really hope!

Geeezz... so I have to take apart the timing? I hope I can assembe it also... Thanks for the information!

Hi, I just received a pair of used lifters for my EA82. Cleaned them correctly, reassembled, and waiting in oil for putting in the engine. I still have no manual for the car, so I don't know how hard is to change the lifters. So, my question to you is: what shall I remove to reach the lifters? Note: I've just redone the oil pump, so I really think that changing the HLAs will make the f*ckin' tickin' go away. Thanks for your answers, Alf

I need it also, so if it's ready to be published, please post it in the tech articles or send it to me by e-mail! Thanks in advance!!

After some days (a week, uh), I finally took out the passenger seat again. So, there's no a damn connector at all! There's a Y shaped bunch of wires, and that's all, no connector! I will take the car to a more experienced car electronic expert, I just don't have time and patience to find the "broken link". :-\ Alf

Yes, and worse, if you have leaking mickey-mouse on your oil pump...

There's one more type of rims which is not listed on that page. It's the RW Macho wheels which I have on my car. It's a direct fit for the factory bolt pattern, and these are 15".

Thanks so much for the info!!

This was totally new for me, thanks! I thought there's only one step: if it's cold, then floor once, and that's all. So, if there's very cold out there, I should floor twice before starting? The rest I understand.

Hello again, What is the correct idle speed on a totally cold carbed ea82? My runs around 2200 rpm, I think that's more than enough... Where/how can I set it to be normal? The hot idle is perfect (about 750-800 rpm). Any ideas? Thanks, Alf

I did see connectors only at the relay unit, and I focused only on that. OK, I'll start with that today, and if it's in a right shape, then I'll start to strip. I mean, the car, of course.

Thanks, that sounds hard. :-\ On the weekend I will strip the car to metal. Anyway, I need the wiring diagram to know which wire should read ground or 12V or anything. Without this I'm totally lost, I think.

I checked the relay again, now I found it. It looks like it's in good shape, no corrosion at all at any connectors/terminals. The connections have some kind of protective grease on them. So, that part looks OK, but I still have no power at the driver's door switches. Any more ideas? Does anyone have a circuit diagram about this? I just bought a repair manual on Ebay, but I didn't get it yet...

OK, thanks. I will check again, because for first I didn't find anything down there. I'm very curious now.