Alf

Sorry, I have no idea. In cases like this I usually go to the pub to get drunk As I posted about my power windows earlier... those are still not fixed as well. I just can't deal with electronics which have at least one relay in it

Thanks for the pics to everyone! I think I'll go with the Momos or the Grants.

It's easy for me at least, I have some friends in here, and their daily job is milling and turning (lathing). I only have to get some raw material and they will do the adaptor in 2 hours for 5 beers.

Thanks! Could you please post the type/brand of the wheel?

Hello all, I'm back after a long time (OK, it's only 2 months ). Now we are just doing the bodywork, and when it's finished, I want to install a new (well, at least for me) steering wheel. The original is worn down very well, that's why I want to change. I don't have any ideas what kind of wheel I want yet, what looks cool in the blue EA-82 interior (the dashboard is black, but everything else is blue), and what is great to grip. I'm interested in other Subaru wheels also, I don't want to buy aftermarket wheel if not necessary. So please post your pics about your custom steering wheels! Thanks, Alf

It was the same for me, but we sit on the engine together with my wife Congrats on your success!!

I still can't download the manual, is this problem only for me ? ? Help me please!

Thanks! The only problem is that the link doesn't work for me, it drops me to the main page of http://www.web1000.com Any other locations, please? Thanks in advance!

For the oil pump: the first time I used a lot of liquid seal around the mickey mouse. I don't recommend that now. If too many seal is added, than the pump's surface doesn't fit well to the engine block's, so my mickey torn after some turns of cranking. After that I used only 4 little points of the liquid, at the ears and at the bottom of the mickey-head. That helped, the gasket was nicely stayed at it's place and the surfaces met perfectly, and oil leaks gone. The crankshaft seal: I didn't change that yet, it wasn't needed, but it seems very easy. If you have the pulley and the timing belts off, take off the two sprockets (the manual says they come off by hand), and then you can pull the seal ring off with a bent screwdriver. Be sure to fit and install the new seal perfectly, it can be seated wrong easily, and you can start the whole thing from the beginning. Hope this helps.

Ooops, sorry, and thanks for correction.

Sequetial Port Fuel Injection I assume...

Hmm... I've just measured, I'm getting 32 mpg (not mistyped!) on highway with factory original Hitachi carb... I'll wait a little with the efi conversion.

Mine was also like you described, when the ignition timing was incorrect. Be sure to set it properly, and to use good spark plugs. I also would check the fuel filter and the fuel pump operating pressure. Hope this helps!

Yesterday evening I've finished this job! Ticking of death is gone, oil leaks gone, engine runs like a dream! I would like to thank all the members in here for the help or just wishing me luck! What I did exactly: changed everything (starting from the cylinder head) on the driver's side of the engine, and put on a used, but great condition oil pump.

I had the same story on my. Timing and everything was OK, but the engine didn' rev so well, and the idle was also rough. Measured the pressure in each cylinder, and that showed that something is wrong in the heads. 1 valve was bent, and 1 valve seat was dropped out, also the heads were extremely cracked. Which I don't understand, is how could the engine start and run easily with these problems?? A simple pressure tester is a good help if you have no ideas what could be wrong.

I don't know about others, but I use a MSD Blaster 2 coil without any problems (yet).

Understood! Thanks for the words! If everything goes well (my new head gasket just arrived) and I can reassemble the engine without any more difficulties, then in the evening I will cruise in my soooobiee and I'll do the banana dance!

I disassembled the whole head, took out the valves/springs, and I didn't see any cracks below surface. This is what I wanted to hear from you. Thanks BTW, what causes the heads to crack?

OK, I trust you Thanks on the information!

What is this project about? This surely looks interesting.

Do you think this is a long-term solution? Because I'm just reassembling my engine, and if this "repair" is enough, I'll go with that.

So you didn't repair the cracks, just did some cosmetics? Nice job! I have to do the same now...

Update: I've aligned one tooth on the driver's side camshaft, but it didn't get better. Tried to adjust the ignition timing, nothing changed. Borrowed a pressure tester/indicator from my neighbour, and tested all the cylinders. 1. ,2. and third cylinders are OK (around 8-9 Bars pressure), but the fourth had 2 Bars. Took down the cylinder head. It's cracked between the two valves, and the exhaust valve is bent a bit. So it's better to change the whole head. I bought an engine, but that engine's heads are also cracked a bit. Not so much, only the surface, so between the valves it's OK. Question: with the head surface between the two valves cracked (only some micron millimeters or less in depth), how long it will work? Is it a big problem, or it will do for years from now (in normal conditions, of course)?

Whoaaa. Mine is also a non-turbo... I didn't expect that much time for that. Thanks for the info! No, there wasn't oil around that seal, and when I bought the car, the previous owner chaged that. Of course, it can be leaking, I will check that today again, just for sure.

:cool: I don't think there are any differencies....