Navet

Thanks Larry! Yes I did get the FWD light, from everything I read, that says Duty C is good. I just don't understand the resistance reading! :-)

Another A/T Binding Issue, my apologies Vehicle: 1997 Legacy L Sedan (203,000 miles) Engine: 2.2 Liter Transmission: 4EAT Symptoms: Severe binding during turns, even slight deviation from straight ahead. Seems to lack power but that could be normal, as this is my first experience with Subaru. Checks performed: Tires and wheels match, pressure checked OK FWD fuse installed, binding relieved but transmission noisy (whine) ECU and TCM code retrieval procedure performed, no codes present (2hz) Checked ATF, looked old/burnt, drained and refilled once (will repeat) Checked Differential gear oil, at proper level and seemed fine Checked rear end, lifted rear of car with transmission in neutral, both wheels rotate freely and rotating either results in opposite wheel remaining stationary or opposite rotation. Manually rotated driveline, results in both wheels rotating in the same direction, everything seems free, no resistance noted Checks in progress: Disconnect 16 pin multi-connector aft of throttle body on bell housing and check resistance of each sensor/solenoid If all sensor/solenoids measure correctly, reconnect and check voltages/resistances at TCM Help, Advice Requested!!! Am I proceeding down a logical path for the symptom noted or should I be heading elsewhere? Please advise! Electrical Engineer playing mechanic with Daughter's car! Thanks Navet Update, Sensor/Solenoid resistance readings: Vehicle Speed Sensor 1 450-720 Ohms (expected) 541 Ohms (Actual) Correct ATF Temperature Sensor 2100-2900 Ohms @ 68F 4200 Ohms @ ~35F (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "A" 1.5-4.5 Ohms (Expected) 3.3 Ohms (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "B" 9-17 Ohms (Expected) 13.3 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 1 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 24.5 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 2 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 24.4 Ohms (Actual) Correct Shift Solenoid 3 20-32 Ohms (Expected) 25 Ohms (Actual) Correct Duty Solenoid "C" 9-17 Ohms (Expected) 33 Ohms (Actual) Houston, I think we have Problem! I assume this means Solenoid "C" is bad? looking for confirmation before I pull the tail shaft housing. Thanks again.