rallyruss
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Posts posted by rallyruss
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look out for the crappy understeering. that will be the biggest problem.
take it a little easy and you might just get better times. just pick good lines.
oh yeah have fun:D
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whats up up there in oak town?
my wagon is a little work horse. I am selling it but only because I need a commuter with better fuel mileage
avoid the auto transmissions.
I have done some rather dificult off road action with no low range in my turbo wagon but it does require a bit more skill than your average jeep TJ. no low end torque is the biggest problem. they do love to go fast on some fairly clear fire roads.
If you go to the snow you will love it. turbo spoolin sideways action.
GD hit the down sides rather well.
I have never blown a head gaset but I try to keep the engine cool. bigger rad. oil cooler, intercooler ect.
i also rally cross an RX (same motor). it does just fine as long as I dont let it get too hot.
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that looks like an oddcomp creation.
wacky stuff man.
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Dear all,
THank you for your suggestions. I toyed around the thermoswitch and fan trying to diagnos the problem and I eventually did. I stipped the wires before the standard harness for the two prong thermoswitch. I checked for voltage and hot plenty. in the switch nothing so I cleaned up the switch. Once i got voltage in the switch and ran the car till it was over the half to see if the switch would come on. Nothing. At this point I assumed the switch was getting power but not working as the fan was not opperative. I jumped the thermoswitch to see if all the wiring from the there on to the fan was working and the fan kicked right in. I replace the switch and refilled the radiator which took some burping. I now am going to try and run her hot tomorrow to verify the fan operation. I have a temp dial that is similar to the gas and oil pressure gage. spans about 120 degrees. At mid way I assume the fan should come on right? Also does anyone know what the dipstic in a manual trani is for? what kind of oil it take as mine is below low mark. Is this the gear oil?
thanks and let the subaru's rock! I am falling in love with mine.
-nate
sounds like you are on the right path.
the trans dip stick is to check the tranny fluid level (and its the filler hole). use good quality GL5 gear oil.
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The used car lot I worked for had a thing for passats and jettas around those years... one problem I saw more than once was the vacuum hose going to that fuel pressure gets frayed/torn/collapsed, etc.. which would cause your "too rich" condition at idle and cruising speeds.. easy thing to look into
2 cents
-Mike
this is true on many models.
you did not state what motor it had. that would help. each one have quirks of thier own.
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I want 3-400HP, reliably in a useful car. I'm thinking Forester STi
I saw a real nice one in kauai during our vacation there. tight little wagon if I do say so myself.
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Had a wasted honda integra motor one time with an auto trans. I pulled the plugs and soaked the pistons with pen. oil. then I just started yanking back and forth on the crank pully till it started to rotate the motor it finally worked its way 360 deg. and I got all the flex plate bolts off ok.
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Ran well enough for me to beat the piss out of it for a while and blow it up
vroooommm!!!...... pop!:-\
always a good time as long as its low buget huh Caleb?
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okay, no type of spray lube can fix a bad bearing.. but shooting white lithium grease into a tensioner is going to have more lasting positive effects than WD 40. thats all :- )
the stuff fills an important niche in a good supply of shop lubricants, and it is frequently overlooked. I was just singing its praises:banana:
you are correct WD40 is not the best kind of lube in general.
I was not trying to put down your point.
I just thought it migt be a little misleading in regards to the topic at hand.
no biggie.
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Thanks for the help. I connected the fan motor directly to the battery and it worked. The connector for the fan is where I got a undouplicated voltage reading. I will test the voltage at the themoswitch in the radiator. it has two lines coming out. Is one ground? I'll double check the radiator ground.
also do you think overheating would be a cause of NOx. I am not sure how much that can influence NOx.
thanks for the reply!
NOx is directly related to heat. overheating will definatly affect it.
by the way they are required to place a fan in front of the car during testing. If they do not it may fail for NOx. there was a local shop that was failing cars by not using the fan then charging 50$ to "fix" it. they would then retest it with the fan and it would pass.
you may also want to check the radiator. they tend to plug up on the inside and have the fins erode on the outside.
good luck.
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Like others stated its a hard thing to diagnose Via a sound clip. But it does sound a bit like a a/c clutch draging. turn on the A/C and see if the noise goes away when the clutch engauges.
And no amount of spray lube (whatever the type) will fix a bad bearing.
I assume you did all the tesnsioners/idlers with the T.belt and all belts ar good and tight?
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No matter how much you put in or what brand, if it has moisture in the system it will never cool right. Replacing the reciever/dryer and pulling a vacuum on the system (boils out moisture) is the fix. Just something to consider if it constantly quits.
I converted mine from R-12 to R-134 along with several other people's cars with no problems. I've used Johnson's, Prestone, DuPont and Advance brands and all have worked well.
If you are not comfortable doing it yourself or lack the right equipment, then you must decide how important A/C is to you. Pay a shop:mad: or buy stuff to fix it.
Down here you would soak your seats with sweat without it. (the winters are nice though:D )
this is verry true.
A/C systems when properly serviced will last a long time with out problems. If you do it half arse you will just do it over and over again.
the A/C tech yo uspoke with was dead on.
you need to pull a vacume on the system before charging or it will never last.
duel gauges are a must for those that understand how to read them.
the sealer is really bad stuff. it not only kills auto A/C systems but also the recovery machines at A/C shops.
you can decide what the best long term.
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you must compress the spring a bit. if you have the right tool yes it can be done on the car. if not pull em off and do it.
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once again i should advocate open belts. go for it. no problems snow, water, mud, gravel. 6 foot reeds, cattails and grass. trips 'cross state and the like.
the ONLY reported FAILURE was due to a loose rag under the hood getting wrapped up in the crank pulley. on MY car. so leave the rags in the trunk and you will be ok.
i invented open belts. check the timing belt article in the usrm:clap:
hmm "invented open belts"? thats a but presumptuous there now mr. fox.
I was running no covers on VW rabbits way back in the day because we thought it was "cool". it did however wear out the belts sooner than normal.
Caleb has the most logical idea.
I have no covers on my RallyX RX but thats because the crank pully would not come loose to fix a leaky waterpump the night before a race so out of desperation it broke the front cover off and fixed the leak.
all the others have covers.
so now here we go:horse: agaian
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what kinda gas mileage does that thing get? I might have a chance to buy one in about the same condition as yours for $500.
gas mileage:headbang:
thats what its about now.
I too am in the market for a justy or similar vehicle.
nice ride and welcome to the subaru zoo.
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I just might have one in my gasket stash. PM me if you are interested.
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The rubber one underneath. I have to replace it, it's hard and leaking, and before I tear into it I would like to know what size to get. I can feel it, and it feels like 5/8" or 1/2" and only four or five inches long.
I think it was 5/8. I just took a look at the spare RX drivetrain I have and thats what it looks like to me.
make sure to use some really good hose. heater hose will not cut it. fuel line may be iffy too. push lock or somthing of that nature might be ok.
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Had to cut mine ..is it going to still read correctly if i solder it and use shrink wrap?(1989 E82T F.I.)
be carefull. there is a noise insulator(ground) on the harness side of the o2 connector. if you ground out the 02 you will have some problems. otherwise yes it will work.
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R/R = remove and replace
two bolts no leak?
I would not put any cash on that bet.
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well you will get the old use the search answer.
it is possible to swap in a EA82T or EJ motor. there are plenty of details to be worked out with either swap.
usually its simpler to purchase a car that already has a turbo stock.
it all depends on how much time you want to spend getting dirty and chasing down parts.
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ouch thats the worst.
well you can always try to JB weld a helicoil in place. I did it sucessfully once.
that may have been just pure luck too.
um bigger bolt?
r/r the head is of course the right choice.
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so my car is idling fine now and all but after adjusting everything my car is fackfiring alot...pretty much everytime rev up and let off and when im shifting gears. I am assuming i need to fool with the idle air screw...what should I do?
my 85 did the same thing. it turned out to be the pulse air injection system.
two marbles stuffed in the hoses fixed that problem.
I guess there is a reed valve of some kind in there that does not seal properly and allows the fresh air to get sucked into the exhaust on decel causing a backfire.
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R-12 is still legal to own, purchase, sell, use, or trade for chocolate milk at lunchtime... it is illegal to manufacture it.
yes its legal to use if you have all the right equipment. along with 134a.
but these are little details that dont really effect the toppic.
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I haven't seen one of these warp by the heads... yet. Usual problem is gaskets... or the very common crack at the turbo mount flange, which is difficult to see due to the heat shielding.
Anyways, to answer your original question, I wouldn't go much larger than the original, and certainly not larger than the port diameter. A better blend of left to right sides would help. The orignal pipe has a major restriction about the point where it bends upwards towards the turbo. About a year ago, someone
(IIRC, Rallyruss) did a thread about this and showed the restriction and his pipe that he had built.
yup that was me.
I chopped out the old up bend and installed a slightly larger section for the angle up to the turbo(TD04).
its had a ton of miles put on it and its one of the few things that has not broken recently.
over all it has worked well.
If I were to do it again I would fabricate a 4 bolt flange to help keep gaskets from blowing out
1987 GL-10 Turbo AWD Wagon
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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no Im not pickin up any more cars for a while.
the subaru parts are getting harder to find for the older cars huh?