Phaedras
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Posts posted by Phaedras
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So, I decide to take a last-second turn onto the on-ramp across 2 lanes and WHAM I hit a curb at about 40mph. Hardy as my Subie is, it survived and let me keep driving. However, now, my wheel is almost buried into my fender. The strut rod or stabilizier bar is bent to hell. I have to turn the wheel almost halfway to the other side to even drive straight. Does anyone know if a 87+ GL or DL has the same suspension parts as my Loyale? I have a local PAP that I might be able to tap. Here are some pics of the damage:
I'm pretty sure I can replace the bent rod without special tools (can I?) but I don't know about that ball joint on the control arm. I think the joint itself is fine, but the boot is clearly busted. What should I do about it?
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Well I got a cheap bar-type guage and it seems that with the engine on as well as off I'm getting a solid 90 psi on both sides. Isn't that a bit high? But even if, why was the AC working for months beforehand?
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I've heard the trick about the thermostat (and I would like to hear people's 2c on that as well) but I think the deal with the distributor was that you used a whole different 2WD disty instead of the 4WD one. However, since the Loyale's used a newer kind of disty that functioned without points I don't think it will matter what you use.
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You can run power to the compresor clutch and see if it turns on...
How do I accomplish this?
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maybe check ac relay ,on my 86 sedan it was on the passanger side under the hood
How do I check it? Just see if there's any voltage at all, or do I need to look for a specific type of resistance?
And how do I tell if the compressor is shot?
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I've been having issues lately where my AC will decide to work for a week, then conk out for another 2 weeks. I hit the button and nothing but regular air comes out of the vents. Usually I will see a very minimal drop in RPMs at idle, but not the usual major drop and engine noise sounding like it's cursing you for putting it through the additional strain.
So where should I start poking with the multimeter to trace the root of the problem? I know I have enough R12 (had it checked) and it doesnt seem like the compressor is shot (but who knows), after all, every once in a while it'll feel like kicking in for a few days.
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This is how one looks like.
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I'm trying to figure out why the interference would pop up out of no where. It didn't occur with my old MSD blaster, and didn't for the first couple weeks of the Accel Super Stock I am now using. I'll admit that it's kinda wedged in there with all the other cables, since I've been too lazy to drill the proper holes to mount it.
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Bump. I guess nobodys ever tried this before
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See, I've been thinking about these rear 2WD KYB struts I found on a GL at a local PAP. They don't leak and can only be an improvement over the ones I have now. Yet my car is a 4WD. The front struts are proper Monroe ones that are brand new. So would running 4WD struts in front and 2WD in rear fsck up my alignment? Would getting everything realigned help at all, or would the struts need to be the same front and rear? My car already looks like the front is tilted down slightly, so I don't believe it would *look* uneven...
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Damn, I wonder why I didn't hear anything about this...oh well, my Loyale would have just gotten smoked by WRXs all day.
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I agree with the Fox, but would also like to add TurtleWax Power Out to the mix. I know it says it's only for carpets (which it does a damn good job on) but I've run it over all my seats and it cleans out some basic grit and works wonders on small marks and stains. It has a built in cheapo scrubbrush on it that actually is able to catch a lot of hair and lint.
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This is great
By all means, continue. -
Yeah, came back to the car one day and had a full flat tire. Bought two used tires for the front (identical), since I'm going to need a full new set of tires once the Peugeots are on. But now the passenger side is a good couple of degrees tilted upward and the car veers to the left if I let go of the wheel. The car also starts shuddering a good bit once I get up into the 50-70 mph range.
Can this be solved with an alignment? Or could it be more serious?
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All this has increasingly been occurring lately:
1. dash lights flicker slightly and humming noise variates in tune with the blinkers on.
2. car will sometimes randomly decide not to start. fuel pump hums and dash warning lights flicker but no other noises. getting a jump seems to help, but so does letting the car sit for 5-10 minutes.
3. rear speakers make a scratch 'n pop noise which rises in pitch with engine speed. been doing some rewiring for an amp lately (though not yet installed) so that might be it. only occurs with engine on, not otherwise.
4. windshield wipers tend to inch and jerk along when set on intermediate.
5. Interior/exterior lights dim when brake is applied with engine off.
6. A/C will not work at all (R12 is confirmed full) then randomly decide to do so for a few days...then stop again.
7. (has happened only once) turned key and lights went on as usual then "pop" and everything shut off. waited a second and it started fine, but radio had reset.
8. (possibly related) idle has an increased tendency to drop to a lumpy 500. turning idle speed screw doesn't seem to help and I already soaked my IAC valve in intake cleaner twice.
What gives???
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They had more power and just about all of them had factory oil coolers.
Hmmm, I wonder how this was accomplished...was anything within the engine different or were the engine "accessories" more capable? Also, I wonder if anything in the interior was obviously different.
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Yeah, do people in other countries get cooler stuff in their Subes? Mechanically or otherwise, what sets foreign XTs apart from the American ones, besides the name?
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Say, do EA82s have only one injector? Or do they have 4, like the EA82Ts? I wonder if having mine cleared out would do any good.
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I've heard things about the taiwanese manufactured Accels crapping out on people, and the US made ones didnt fail quite as often. Apparently production had been switched quite a while ago. Now the used one I just bought says "Made in USA". I hope this means I'm good.
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One day I will own an XT, and one day I will mod the hell out of it. I'm wondering if it would be feasible to put newer model Sube exhausts on the XT series andif anybody has done it yet, how they did it, and if they had any performance and/or acoustics gains.
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I'm sad to say most cracks here on the board agree these things aren't worth a damn. I was once like you, idealistic and willing to spend as little as possible for what I thought was a big improvement...good thing I never got around to doing it
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Now now, be glad that another person found there way into or back to the Subaru fold
Don't go raggin' on his former ride, all is forgiven 
Welcome to the club
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I was looking for a really nice (speak, in front of a beautiful valley, at sunset, etc.) picture or two of an XT6. Something I could print real nice and hang on my wall. It'd be especially awesome if someone knew where I could actually get a real poster of an XT6. In any case, something really cool to look at and dream about owning :-)
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the red dust is the internal bump stop rotting.
Sooo, is this bad?
Seriously, does it affect the strut performance majorly?
Help! Really did it this time...*update*
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Ack, what if the mounting point for the control arm and/or "leading rod" is bent? Just try to hammer it back into position again? Also, to take the control arm off I also need to pop out a balljoint or two and some bushings. Is this possible with a good set of hand tools? I've heard control arm bushings and joints need a special compressor to be shoved into place.
Yeah, I'm just worried I may have fsked up some stuff to the extent that even once I get an alignment after all this it still wont be quite right...