Phaedras
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Posts posted by Phaedras
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7957668932&category=33741
I think this kind of thing has been mentioned before, but I'm wondering: Shouldn't there be at least a small improvement in performance? It seems to me that a dedicated high airflow fan could possibly be more beneficial than just the standard ducting that relies on vehicle speed to provide airflow. I seems fishy since there are several of these for sale, always at 135$ and with variing car model applications.
Are there even any kind of mechanical superchargers in existence that could be bolted on to a Subaru?
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hmmmm, where should I be drilling the hole in the firewall? what if I need a line to an external amplifier as well? should I use some sort of grommets to seal around the hole?
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Now apart from NOS stickers, we all know that cool lighting can also give you a HP boost. I've been thinking about adding a cold cathode tube or two to my interior, such as below the glove compartment, trunk, below the front seats, etc. Now I stole a rear wiper switch off a Loyale wagon that I plan on jury-rigging to the circuit. The tubes I'm buying are ones initially intended for PC cases, so they run off of 12V.
I would like to know if anyone has a schematic or is aware of what the different wires leading to the wiper switch are (positive, ground, etc.) and what 12V source I should be tapping into. I think using cigarette lighter adapters is severely non-phat and would like to splice into a line behind the console.
And, of course, I'd like to know if anyone has ever attempted this sort of thing themselves. I know most of you like keeping your rides stock or pimp them out for some heavy muddin', but I think we all have a little ricer within us. :cool:
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What kind of dangers are associated with this trick? I've been trying out the technique of shifting from 2nd into 3rd once I hit 5000 or so, to get a little be more performance out of the engine. I let the transmission switch into 2nd for me, then shift into 3rd when I feel like like it.
Does this cause premature transmission wear? Are there other ways of using this to your advantage? How do I do I smoke the competition and tear away from a red light with this?
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You should have the newer crank angle distributor. It's the best of the old EA82 series and doesn't/shouldn't require any maintenance, unless its off a tooth, as Snowman mentioned. Make sure your green test connectors (underhood, near disty and wiper motor) are connected. Check your idle as well.
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Now is that a purely custom job, or are you using part of a kit?
Where would you suggest to go to get piping like that cut, and what do you use to combine the different sections of pipe?
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If you haven't done so already, check your fuses. I was playing around with the wiring one day and blew one. I didn't know that I had and was driving with the ceiling light for a week.
Of course, you might be out of luck and your problem is more severe, but it could also be as easy as replacing a fuse :-)
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I've been wanting to clean all the grounds in my Loyale for a while now to troubleshoot electrical problems more effectively, but I don't have the slightest clue where these are located and my manuals can't seem to give me any info either.
Can anyone give me a list (most importantly the one responsible for A/C)?
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Should one just plug the coolant line running in to the TB? I don't see any outlet and I'm hoping I won't blow the whole system by plugging it up. How will this effect performance and will a lower degree thermostat throw off the system?
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But isn't there simply one intake port on an EA82, on top of the TB? Are you saying that one could add an entirely new intake point or that you could have several hoses going towards and terminating at the TB? (and what is ITB?)
I also don't understand the coolant line bit...are you suggesting plugging the coolant line into the TB? I thought that one should try to cool all parts of the TB possible? Or is the temperature of the manifold more important?
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So basically my plan is thus: Create the most optimal conditions as possible for my intake by maximizing airflow and lowering temperatures, while keeping a close-to-stock-as-possible look. Now I know this has been discussed before, but I was thinking there might be other solutions, or experimental methods.
I've spent a considerable amount of time (and money) trying to cool my home PC. I believe that some of the methods involved in that could be applied to cars as well. For example: a set of small electrical fans that blow air directly in to the filter. or: a CPU cooling block attached to the throttle body, circulating coolant through a small aquarium pump and reservoir system. All these would require minimum current to run.
Thoughts? Comments?
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I'm preparing a translation of the page, just need a place to upload the file.
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I need to find myself a Zentralverriegelung for my wagons, I think my other Zentralverriegelung fell out
I think you'd be hard pressed to have your power locks fall out.
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But don't you need to wipe off the surface after you've sprayed it with any kind of solvent? Does breaking it down by itself already help?
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Heard about the Idle Air Control Valve (that round bar at the front of the throttle body) being a common problem, causing weird idle. After taking one at a local junkyard apart (my car is a daily driver) I see that it has a motor on the left side, and a hollow tube with a rod and spring at the other. I'm wondering how I can get in there to clean everything out. Is there a way to dissemble it or should I just spray in some carb cleaner and hope for the best?
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36-38 hwy. non turbo though.
38? I hate to say something is impossible with a Sube, but that seems insane. Even if the fuel system is top notch and you have a stick, how are you getting up into that range?
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Well let's assume I installed either a K&N cone filter that bolted directly to the MAF, or a full cold-air intake. Would that already be enough extra air to warrant some mods to the FI?
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Hmm, my Loyale has 6 1/2 inchers, which need a lot more clearance. I'm thinking of just cutting the hole larger until it clears the speaker. Here's what it looks like now:
You can see on the right side how it rests against the inner frame which as ballitch mentioned, sucks. But one way or the other I'm not getting as much bass as my rear speakers which have the whole trunk to fill with sweet double bassdrum solos
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Excellent, thanks guys.
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Been trying to succesfully install some new speakers into the doors of my loyale...but I've had some problems, like the tweeter in my coaxes pushing against the grill. After cutting the grill out, I still have the slight problem that the rubber ring around the top part of the speaker (the one that sort of dampens the speaker cone when it hits) is pressed up against the plastic of the door trim.
I was wondering if this constitutes a problem, like premature speaker wear, or if others have thought up other ways of mounting the speakers.
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Guys? One last bump.
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It's just that I heard it's important to get OEM PCV valves for Subes...maybe I should try a dealer?
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I know nobody has been responding to this, but all I really want to know at this point is what brand I should be asking for at Autozone when I want to order a PCV valve and fuel filter. Thanks.
Electric Supercharger?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Hmmm.............................ya sure?