Phaedras

Hmmm, nobody else here who hates bubbles too?

...in my front differential fluid. And leaking differential fluid, dripping onto the cat. So this happens even after short drives, about a 2000 miles after I switched out the old oil for synthetic. Bad idea? Go back to regular? Or is this baby already gone?

You know, I'm really surprised this problem didn't pop up years ago, considering how many people here have experienced it. I'm trying to sell the Loyale and it does this exact same thing, even forced me to spend $40 on a motel room one night when I tried starting it for 30 mins after stopping to get gas. Went out and bought a starter (that seemed the most obvious) but before I installed it the next day I had a hunch and tried to start the car...immediately on the first try. Bastard. I hope that one of these solutions will work. It seems so off the wall though, since all the wires on the interior look very good...I can't imagine why one random one would decide to corrode or melt...

Thanks guys, this is all really helpful. I think I'm actually going to just grit my teeth and pay for the windshield and tire replacements. I'm trying to get the whole car's worth out of this, because it's a decent daily driver and I need the money bad. It's just hard investing money in something when you're not sure you'll get everything back or not...

I'm sad that it has to come to this, but baby, ya gotta go. My '92 Loyale (4WD 3AT) needs to be sold, but there are some issues that I was hoping y'all could give me some advice on how to resolve them. I just moved to Somerville, Mass. (near Boston) and I could use the extra cash plus I have a public transit network that gets me to where I need to go. My car currently has a few things that need to be taken care of before I can put it on the market: -windshield cracked (almost a foot large in diameter, from the inside) -tires mismatched and worn (squeals on every turn) -has not been inspected -still has Florida plates -AC doesn't work Apart from that, the interior is great and the exterior is almost rust free with good (and I mean good) original paint. The engine runs. Suspension is tight. Brakes are almost new. What would be the best course of action here? Sell it as is? Repair the windshield, but not replace the tires? Do I need and most importantly, CAN I get it inspected without in-state plates and will anyone buy it without it being inspected? The Blue Book value even with faulty items included is above $2000! But will anyone buy it without repairs? What's most cost-effective?

Hey, I just moved to Boston and though I've seen a multitude of older Subarus around, living in the Boston area (Somerville) doesn't seem to provide many actual junkyards to pull parts from. I need some big and a lot of small EA82 stuff (ranging from alternator to AC bracket screws). I'd be willing to drive an hour to get to such a place where I might find these parts. Anyone have any leads?

I'm having big pinging issues as well, especially under load. Idle issues as well. Barring the IAC and assuming the MAF, how do you check it?

what the hell??? Are those turning lights or do you use them to blind the cops when they try to chase you?

heh, from what it looks like I'll be returning it anyway. i'm moving and need gas money. $30 will fill my tank and get me through a state or two. oh well...

Hmmm, no performance increase at all? Or just minimal, 1-5 hp or so? All I ever heard about it is how important it is to properly isolate open filters from the bay area air so they can flow cool intake air. Why can't the IC accomplish this?

Yeah, just on a lark I peeped under the hood of a '86 Saab at the local PAP and BAM, apparently nobody had gotten to it yet. The turbo still rests inside while I speak. So since the fins are all in stellar condition and it just has some oil inside *shiver* that needs to be washed out I bought it. Sooo...what the hell do I do with it? Neither my Loyale nor my fictional-soon-to-have XT6 have turbos. Can it be used to cool intake air? I'm thinking of placing it between the open filter and the MAF (or after) to create a proper CAI. What about exhaust? Where would I need to weld to hook this puppy up?

Is there an optimal distance? In any case, I'll try to move it a bit closer and see if the AC will kick in again.

I've been wondering if this has been the cause of my AC function being so erratic. The speed sensor has been moved several times to permit the changing of the accessory belts. Is there a standard distance this should be from the A/C pulley? How much does it affect operation?

I'm going to be moving to Beantown this coming Monday, the 20th. On my way I'm not impartial to meeting fellow Subaru owners to check out their rides, grab a beer, talk cars, etc. I also might be selling a set of Peugeot 15"s that I probably will have stripped, sanded and polished by then. I'm having monetary issues and my next ride might well be an XT6 so we'll see. Here's one that's mostly finished: I would also like to see an RX and/or an XT in person once Anyone interested in meeting up?

Just a regular multimeter. The manuals say to check for continuity and voltage by testing certain terminals on for instance the MAF, where it's like "check for a certain resistance between terminals A and D with the key in the off position", etc.

I've been wondering if anyone has experience with testing the electrical components such as MAF, IAC, TPS, CTS, etc. I don't feel like replacing random parts to fix the problems I've been having (idle, mileage, hesitation). Testing some of the components has yielded values that differ wildly from what is considered nominal by both Haynes and Chilton. I feel that this means I am doing something wrong. So before I spend big bucks, are there reliable ways of testing these components?

Sorry to revive this, but what kind of tool do you use to unbolt the sensor? Socket won't fit because of the connector and wire, and I see no way of jamming my 17mm wrench in there with enough room to turn.

You know...all I had to do was buy a MAF adapter for a early 90's nissan sentra. I simply unscrewed the bolts off the airbox and it popped right off, and attached the plate. The nuts are welded, but you can get to the bolts from the other side and they should screw right out. I'm surprised you had to use a brute force method. Cool support wire, tho

Try switching out the fan blade. For some freakish reason it might be making that noise. Otherwise, all I can think of is some bearing in the water pump having gone bad. Try wiggling the shaft of the pump around a bit. If there's any sort of play, chuck the pump. (and put in a new one)

Apparently you have never been in Florida during the summer... Anyway, there's always a point where I'd like to sit back and enjoy some artificial chill. Something else, the voltage meter will drop when I hit the AC, even though I still don't get any cold air.

Bump.

Yes, that's my problem exactly. Nice and cold when it's working, engine slows to a crawl just like it should but then decides to quite working for weeks. L Lucky for you, in your case it's just hours.

I buy all of my performance stuff online. Another place to look is www.Froogle.com. Run by Google, this searches websites for online shops and offers. There's an option on the left to sort by price. VERY useful.

I have a 3AT. See, everyone keeps ragging on my Automatic and Jebus knows that I hate it too, but 20-21 is really off the wall for a car which seems to be in relatively good condition. My plugs are gapper wider, I have a hotter spark and more airflow than stock. So something MUST be off. What sensors contribute to the injection system's calculations, if the tires are not the main culprit?

bump.