Phaedras

bump.

Is the CTS inside the thermostat housing like Chilton says?

when redoing my water pump seal I eventually realized that it was much easier to just take off the whole A/C and alternator bracket. The A/C line was flexible enough for me to shove it quite a bit out of the way. Your leak might be a bit farther to the left, though. Also, just go to a parts store and bring the old tube with you. Makes it a lot easier to compare sizes.

IAC has been SOAKED twice in carb cleaner and seafoam. While running and while not. How can I tell if the coolant temp is malfunctioning? Will it show up on my dash guage or is it separate? Can I check with a multimeter?

Yah, I actually tried running all tires at 35-40 just for kicks to see if by lowering the amount of tire hitting the road I could create less drag. Didn't help, though. It hardly matters if they're at 28 or 40 psi. Timing has been tried at 18 as well as 22 and 24 degrees. No change either, maybe a mpg less at higher timings. Now it's at a solid 22. I don't think I'm running to rich either, at least it doesn't smell like it and my O2 is new. MAF? TPS?

Yeah, she starts up just fine, but lately the idle has been very rough in the beginning and relatively low at a stop. It's also happened that she ran generally rough and misfired quite a bit and it felt like she was choking when I hit the gas. After 2-3 mins everything fine. My O2 sensor is brand new, as well as all the regular tune up stuff. What gives?

Been wondering about this. I can't seem to get my Loyale SPFI AT above 20-21 mpgs. Now with my configuration which includes performance coil, wires plus new filters, cap and rotor I should at least be able to hit 23-24. In the beginning my tires were 3 of the same brand and 1 of a different brand. Even tire wear, still had a year or two of driving in them. Due to unforseeabel circumstance, I now have 2 balding front tires of the same brand and two different yet decent rear tires of different brands. Could this be affecting my gas mileage enough that with new tires I could easily gain a mpg or two?

Personally, I think that is one clean lookin' paintjob. Nice.

I wonder...what if the lightning bolt had hit the distributor cap dead on and from one second to the other supercharged the plugs with 1 000 000 volts instead of 30 000. 1000% percent efficient combustion Better than nitrous

How and where would I check for these leaks? Also, speed seems to not be the issue. I do however every once and a while think that it kicks in for a split second, then dies. This is at a cold start. It will smell a bit like A/C for about 1-2 second and then goes back to regular outside air.

Bump. Dammit, it was working for 2-3 days and now it's crapped out again. Any more suggestions? It's summer in Florida, this sucks...

Check froogle.com (run by google) thats good if you're ordering stuff within the US, will hunt down all websites that sell a particular item. I've seen $35 to $50 depending on where you get it. It's well worth it.

From what remember it seemed necessary to take at least one of those pulleys off to wiggle the pump out, otherwise it just kept snagging and would have smeared the gasket sealant we put on later all over the place had we tried to force it back in later somehow. It was also necessary to figure out where the leak was originating. Those pulleys can block a lot of your view, even if you have a mirror-onna-stick like we did.

Northwet was right Finally! Good thing I have tons of redneck relatives that have been working on cars for years, even if not Subarus...It turns out the o-ring on the metal pipe that runs from the radiator to the side of the pump decided to go. Also, for some reason, the bracket holding the AC and Alt which sits right on top was also causing the hose/tube to sit crooked, compounding the problem. At first we assumed it was the pump, since the gasket was in tatters. A remanned pump and bulletproof gasket + copper gasket paste combo later we realized that it did not get any better. I spent most of the reunion weekend figuring out and fixing the problem. I even had to redo the timing because I had to pop off the driver's tensioner and drive belt idle pulley to even get the pump off (Chilton didn't mention any of this) Now the leak is fixed. However, I am unable to tighten the alternator bracket 100%, because the leak will reappear immediatley. I'm assuming this is because the bracket is applying pressure to the line and shoving it out of the way. It doesnt really matter, I was able to tighten 2 bolts enough that the bracket does not move and the drive belt is tight. The engine is somewhat more "rumbly" and "chatters" whenever I am under a certain RPM. Hey, but I got home, that was what mattered. Thanks for the offered help.

Urgent because I am stuck 500 miles away in Walterboro, SC. We are talking rivers here. What I have been assuming is my water pump had been leaking slightly for a few months before I went on a 500 mile trip to a family reunion yesterday. Coolant/water was gushing out the very SECOND I began to refill the radiator. Now I know for sure it isn't the radiator because the leak seems to originate in the pump area and runs down to the oil pan. I was able to procure a remanned pump + plus seal that I affixed with that copper sealant stuff. However, it is still occuring in the same fashion as before. And yes, I did my best to remove all of the original gasket. Is it possible this is a headgasket leak? I have noticed not the slightest bit of coolant in my exhaust, but it still seems a freak possibility. The engine overheated about 2-3 times as I made a run for it to get to the place. I am noticing brown oil stains in areas around seams in the block, however it does not leak oil at all as I sit here to fix it. Does anyone know how to fix this problem or lives in or around Charleston who graciously would be able to lend me a hand? I am stuck here, unable to return to school or work while my engine loses all it's coolant within 30 miles of driving.

I don't use one, but I had a MSD coil blow after 3-4 months which I suspiciously attribute to the lack of ballast...but it may have been just a crappy coil. Otherwise, yes.

I don't care that some people think it's a placebo, my car is a slug without my Accel Super Stock. Right now its kind of sitting loosely next to the original bracket. I need to get around to drilling new holes for it so I can mount it properly.

Dude, my car pings anywhere from 18 to 24 degrees, it doesnt matter. It is even starting to ping with *premium* and my car only has 80K on it, so I severly doubt it is carbon. Besides, I've used several fuel treatments to get gunk out. Since my water pump has been leaking profusely lately, I've had 1-2 times where the needle hit half and went a bit beyond before I could pull over and refill coolant. During that time, my car pinged like MAD even at low load. Heat is really the only explanation in my book unless there is something stupid I'm missing here. The plugs are fine as well, they are the V-type copper ones that NGK says is right for my car (BPR6EY or something). Oh and before all this when my car was perfectly fine with 89 octane the needle never went beyond 1/4. EVER. I have reason to believe the gauge is correct, since the engine feels significantly hotter when the needle is farther up.

Dude, I have so many things lined up for when I have a decent cash flow again...I need to finish cleaning up and polishing my Pug wheels, and then I need to get tires for 'em which is expensive because nobody EVER has 195/50/15 on sale. Yeah, then comes balancing and aligning.

Yay! All is fixed now. Had to replace leading rod, control arm and swaybar-to-control arm mount brackets. Donors were two late 80s GL and DL with around twice the mileage of mine Took me about 6 hours or so trying to figure out how to reattach everything (and figure out what else was bent). But now she drives straight again. Thanks for all the help. Your were right about the control arm taking some of the force as well. However, I was unable to switch out the ball joint. How the HELL do you get that thing out?

You know, the wheel/tire seem to be fine. There's an spot about an inch long where the outer lip is bent slightly, but now, 48 hours later, I still have all the air left in the tire. Oh yeah, and D'OH I of course attached the rod to the mounting point before I attached or tried to attach it to the control arm. Doing it your way I might be able to use the rod as leverage to bend the arm upwards and then just force the rod into the socket.

Alright, I got the rod out easy enough, but now that I want to put it in, lo and behold, the holes don't line up. The control arm is tilted slightly and I believe it may have knocked the mount a bit off. PLUS the balljoint on the lower side is tilted as well, which is why the boot tore. It might just drop back into place once everything else is straight. FRIGG, it sucks because the control arm mount looks like it's attached to the crossmember...and that'll be annoying as hell.

Good question. I don't know, it was like "do I need to turn here? yes...no...maybe...holycrapYES!" and I whipped the wheel all the way to the right and I believe I must have skidded a slight bit. If my tires had had a bit more traction I probably would have made it, but sadly I have 3 different brands of tires with 2 different tread wears, so that wasnt going to happen I also fully expected my CV to blow, but it doesnt make any noises. There's just the scraping noise coming from the tire hitting the fender in turns Oh yeah, and the best thing? Once I had stopped on the side of the on ramp I realized I didn't even have enough change to use the toll road anyway so I could've saved myself all this trouble in the first place.

You guys are awesome. I have a feeling this has happened to you in the past as well I'll let you how things turn out. It's off to the junkyard for me tomorrow. I still can hardly believe that with that kind of impact my car is actually still driveable. Subarus rule

Hmmm, what about using a 180 degree stat? The change isnt drastic but might be enough to keep the engine just a little bit cooler. I've noticed pinging using even premium gasoline...I believe my thermostat is faulty (hangs around 1/4 to 1/2 of the temperature gauge) and is keeping the engine exceptionally warm. Is "operating temperature" designated with that little bar above the lowest bar on the dash temperature indicator?