Phaedras

How would you have a turbo rebuilt and what would the cost be? I'm assuming I can't just wash it out with Simple Green and warm water :-)

You say 230, your sig says 161/205

Even though that mysteriously differs from what your sig says...cool :cool:

Can the difference be translated into a direct horsepower or cubic feet per minute value? I'm wondering if the difference in turbos is noticeable, and if it is, how do you know if the engine can handle it? Just by boost values? (I've heard 11 psi is pushing it)

Sooo, about turbos On my way to acquiring an older turbo'ed Sube and was wondering if I could get some info out of you modding cracks. I hear a lot about people slapping WRX turbos onto their EA82s and rumors about other people doing the same with Volvo and other manufacturer's units. So whats all that about, how hard is it to upgrade to a cooler turbo, how can I tune my existing one to achieve more of this so-called boost everyone is talking about :cool: and how does one make sure that overpressure doesnt occur and disintegrate the engine?

This is a lot of good advice, thanks guys. Its good to know you always have a boatload of Subaru cracks just a few mouse clicks away.

D.I.Y....say if I live in an apartment or townhouse with several other people and a landlord who won't like having car parts strewn about the parking lot for a week (which is now, as well as will be the case). Then it's kind of hard to attempt such a procedure, especially if you've never even dreamed of doing something like it before.

I've been thinking about this, and I've seen quite a few turbo'ed EA82s on ebay for sale by jdm. My search for a turbo coupe has proven somewhat fruitless, at least when the east coast is concerned. I was wondering if there is any merit in buying one of those engines for a paltry 700$ and having someone drop it into a random Subaru coupe, such as an RX, GL or even Loyale. How much could be charged for this, and who would touch such a job?

Now it seems to me that its pretty obvious I'm going to run into some problems here...the Pugs stick waaay out. What happened? I thought Peugeot wheels were a direct fit and I don't believe these are the accursed brand of wheels that people have problems with. What gives?

Who does the sorts of things? And how much can one expect it to cost? A machine shop here in Orlando wanted a few hundred to redo the wheels.

Just bought myself a quad of 15" Pug Aluminiums in medium condition. They seem to be solid except for the fact that the old coat has deteriorated and left dull spots. I was wondering if and how any of you had redone your wheels. I'm thinking about saving myself a triple digit figure to have them machined and basically sanding down, then spraying with silver paint and applying several layers of lacquer. If this is a feasable idea, how many coats of each do you suggest, which brands of paint would you use, etc. I would like for such a paintjob to last until the next time I would need tires (bare rims now), does that sound realistic?

What options came with the RX opposed to Gl would interest me as well. Power windows, trip computer, etc.

I use the Blaster II High Vibration coil (because of the horizontal position) and it has served me well. But I as well am extremely interested if anyone has ever used their electronic ignition systems.

Are there? At first I was under the impression that the RX was thought of as a rally car, or general performance model. But it seems like the GL almost has more to offer in general. What really sets these two apart? Where can I also find changes between year models?

Thanks for the offer, but she's already gone ahead and gotten the dirty deed done.

To be honest, the kits were initially meant for other cars (subedave's was for a '00+ Saturn...go figure) but could be adapted for older Subes.

Was just wondering if any of you use prexisting cold air intake kits to mod your Subes. I know some have used such kits and even relocated the filter between fender and body. In these cases, what happened to the stock air intake hose? There is only limited clearance between the top of the TB and I can't imagine a 3 inch pipe at a 90 degree angle being able to clear the hood. Besides that, which material was used to extend or modify the CAI?

Reminds me: What do you guys think about remanufactured equipment, specifically distributors? I have the option of purchasing either one for 180$ from Cardone or one for about 250$ from Bosch, both reman. Are they really going to be any less reliable than a new one?

I'm just pissed because it all started as faulty "ignition module" on the, ahem, "Loyale's" distributor. They were going to charge 250-something. Then it seems like *coughboschcough* "Hitachi" doesn't make those specific parts anymore, they only sell whole distributors with cap and rotor at a whopping 350$ for the part alone. Of course, these guys didn't want to use a 180$ reman disty. So it turns out that for the time they spent ordering 2 wrong parts and figuring all this out, they were in the end going to charge approx. 600$ for the job when all was said and done. For a mofo-friggin disty replacement! So now I say, cut losses, pay for an hour or two "diagnostic" and just wheel the bastard onto the street and replace it myself, at about half the cost. In any case I thank you all wholeheartedly for all the info. USMB rocks.

Uhhhh.....it's the Loyale So, would physically moving the car without cranking the engine already mess up the timing?

Say, what if the car had to be towed away a block or two, for example if one decided to cut ones losses and give the *bleep* mechanic the finger and had to tow it out of their lot to put it in oneself, would that cause the flywheel to move and mess with the timing? What if the car had electronic timing?

I was wondering if this was something a shadetree mechanic could attempt without any major explosions. I've got manuals but I wanted to know from you guys if this is something that can be accomplished. Also, is the general setup the same across most lines of makes and models? Say, would there be much difference between a Sube disty and one that needs to be replaced on the g/fs Audi Coupe but the !*?# shop wants to charge 600$ because they suck rump roast? Thanks.

Sure, go ahead, this thread can be killed.

Ok, I've been reading some of the older threads about this (as I should have done anyway) and I get the point. Hey, I'm a college student, all I do is dream about free lunches.

What about high performance alternators? Say if one were to use the older GM ones that do around a hundred amps?