Phaedras

I'd just like to know if it's worth it before I tear off the ones on my car. The rear end is unbelievable squeaky even at really low speeds, but I don't want to put on something that doesnt fit or isnt much better.

I was bummed out because the junkyards around here I usually go to for the odd part for my Loyale had recently crushed their Subes. On the way home I drop by this new U-Pull place and lo-and-behold a 1988 GL SPFI. And here's what I found on 'em: KYB GR-2 341066 HJ06 is the model apparently. Does this one not look too bad? I only took one because I'm no expert (was a mother***** to take off) Theres some weird red dust in the middle where the rod meets the lower half and I can see some more at the very top inside the top dust boot. The lower dust boot is loose and can move up and down which I hope isn't that big of an issue. I for myself can't see any oil leakage. Also, these are probably 2WD struts as the car was a manual 2WD. I have a 4WD Loyale, so they should fit, right?. So should I get the other one? This cost me $30.

Any possibility of attaching a small filter to the PCV hole in the intake? Or directly onto the valve cover hole?

I do have a massive open cone filter, so I'm thinking I have a bit more material I could burn, albeit not much.

BAM. And while driving my girlfriend and I to get gelati. No embarassment, she's used to me spending almost as much time under the hood as driving the thing. Anyway, I had the old Hitachi coil in the back because I knew this might happen someday. Anyway, the coil wire end on the coil side was actually BURNT. Was the absence of an extra ballast resistor the cause? I asked the question if I needed one a while ago but didnt get a straight answer. I'm going to try out an Accel Superstock now (no way am I going run the slothy stock coil, reliable as it may be) so do I need the resistor, and which kind would I need.

I've heard this and that about valve cover breathers and dissasembling the PCV system. I notice that I get massive amounts of oil into my intake from the crankcase, somehow traveling all the way up into the main intake hose and literally dribbling in both the direction of my MAF and throttle body. I kid you not, this stuff becomes a river sometimes. Now, can I just plug the hole in the intake hose and attach one of those miniature air filters onto the valve cover? Or is there other work required? Is there possibly even a way of retaining the system and just finding some oil seperation device that can be spliced in between?

Has anyone tried to swap out their OEM or OEM-style fuel filter for something else? I was wondering if there are higher-flowing or more efficient-filtering ones out there. I'm guessing technically you could use a wide array of filters since the technique is the same across the board. For example, you apparently can use newer model VW GTI filters on older Audis, and this supposedly is an improvement.

I have a similiar problem. When I turn the key, all the lights stay on, evrything normal except that all I hear is a buzzing sound, which I believe comes from the fuel pump. When I check the output voltage with the battery detached an the engine running, it gives me a strong ~14 volts. Anyway, it will continue to buzz as long as the key is turned, yet the check engine light will flicker randomly. The CEL does not come on otherwise however. Usually the car will start eventually. Switching out the ignition coil back to the stock one has helped before, as well as getting a jump, but I have a feeling it might not be either.

Couldn't one just go an easier route and install a relatively small turbo that doesn't push it that hard?

Can't seem to find anything on search about this, but are Xt6s able to handle a turbo? I'm thinkin' that 145hp are fine and dandy but that they can easily take another 30-odd without falling apart... Even if there isn't a "bolt-on" solution, or the engine can't handle that high compression, one could use a small, efficient aftermarket turbo. Low boost is better than no boost.

Hmm, I reset the ECU TWICE, made sure I did it right. RPMwise I'm usually always between 3000-4000. I admit that I accelerate hard to make up for the EA82 SPFIs lack of horsepower, but I didnt think it would affect things THIS much. BEsides, I thought that a performance coil would help quite a bit with MPGs.

What the FRIGG. Alright, new O2 and cone filter and msd coil and NGK plugs and accel wires and two full tanks of Techron cleaner and synthetic oil and dialed the timing back to 20 degrees and STILL I have really crappy mileage ranging between 20-22. Almost NO change when I'm on the highway as opposed to around town. This SUCKS. Whats wrong? I know this is an AT but I have no CEL on. So there's no reason why I should be burning so much fuel?!?

I think you should keep it. You have an Ea82T with only 66K, which means you have another 200K or so of badass turbo action ahead of you. I think you're going to need some skills to get $2000 out of any "normal" person who doesn't know the inherent value of the car, and most people on the board aren't willing to pay that kind of money because many have a house and family (expensive) or they would rather build such a car themselves.

Wow, why not go straight for a thrash metal reunion: Slayer Megadeth Metallica Exodus Testament Anthrax etc.

Alright guys, what do you do to scavenge every last pound of useless ballast? Lighten the flywheel? Use alloys? Tear out the seats? What can I safely remove without looking like crap? Come on, 115 hp on a EA82T will only take you past a WRX if you're driving the frame

Wait...so if my CEL has turned off, yet I can still read codes from memory, there still exists a problem?

Was talking to a dude at Advance about eventually enlargening my exhaust system a bit and he comes up with this suggestion: Give the Turbo a whole 'nother exhaust pipe, somewhere around 1.5". I'm trying to figure out if this would be beneficial in any way, but I'm no expert. This sound like something that would make sense to do?

Doesn't JDM supposedly get it's engines from Japan? Those are the ones I see on Ebay all the time. Maybe there's differences between the JP and US versions.

That's a really cute car, I'm surprised the paint is still in that good of a condition. Also like the juryrigged audio system :cool:

bump.

Well, I don't quite agree on the 'duh' part. I have zero experience with sand/beadblasting, and so I have no clue as to how effective the process is. A local machine shop suggested I strip the crap off first. So in order: 1. Strip (optional) 2. Blast 3. Sand (wet sanding?) 4. Buff/Polish? 5. Prime --- 6. Paint |---- (if desired 7. Coat --- How does that sound? Sorry about the nitpickery, never done this before and I paid 200$ bucks for these wheels, on a student's budget I'm looking for longevity and modest bling.

Do you have any RX/EA82 stuff? Who knows, after picking up my new RX I just might come up to visit if time allows.

But is it important to get every last bit of paint away before I have em blasted, or was stripping them first unnecessary?

What should I do if some paint or what I'm assuming is primer just wont budge? I have a wheel mostly cleaned now, except there's still the occasionally spot where there's a blot or it's still milky looking because I can't get the paint out of the grooves in the spokes. Besides that, the paint around the centercap area won't go away at all really, though now it looks very dull and matte. Do I need to clean everything before I get it blasted? I'm using aircraft stripper by the way.

I have a feeling the WRX turbo might be a bit much for the EA82T to handle, and that the Legacy turbo might be the best option for those not wanting to tear apart their intake/outtake system, but I'm far from being knowledgeable on the subject. Do people have experience with turbos from other makes of cars? Where is the up-pipe exactly? Downpipe is the two leading into the cat, no? And who makes cats that will fit onto the factory downpipe and lead into a single, preferably 2.5" (assuming this is the "best" for a turbo) exhaust?