Jeepman775

EA wagon that is.... Anyone done this yet??? I have looked for like two days. By the way Hi guys haven't seen ya since I got rid of my hatch, like a year ago. I have a while to prepare this swap, I AM going to do it, and hoping to get all information partaining to this swap that you guys know..... Things like six speed tranny with DCCD length versus standard wrx tranny... alterations to suspension... axle differences.. anything of that nature. I want to do a full write up, as well as compile into one thread all the knowledge spread through out this forum about WRX/ STI motor/ drivetrain swaps, as it is maddening to run about the entire site to try to track down this info. All you guys know so much, but all this is spread through a-hundred-and-ninety-ten threads. I hope I am not pissing anyone off by bringing up this much inquired topic, but there are (to my investagative abilities) many fractional sources that almost/fractionally partain to THIS subject. Many EJ threads, however, few EJ20t/25T/25T-STi. I hope to not only to create a thread which combines all knowledge about this subject, but pole all your brains and create the most comrehensive write up I can. Once I graduate (Next year) I WILL be doing this. Can you guys help me??? P.S. If this has been done and a write up of it that is well detailed exists, or hell if a write up exists let me know and tell me I suck. Thanks guys.

So I just put in 2 wrong axles on the passenger side. it's an 88 gl 5 spd d/r 23 spline non-turbo drive train, anyone have a kragen part number? Thanks guys

I snagged a pair too, although I have "old rump roast worn out 20 year old stockers"

Kinda ugly dude. I ,personally, would go with Jet black, black tinted windows and charcol rims, but that's just me. I'm a little weird.

Well in mine I just notched the crossmember and am going to weld it later, I haven't yet and it has held up fine. (however mine is an unlifted street car with no lift, so I don't know

Hey let us know how you are doing it because I am Really thinking about doing the WRX ej20G into my 88 GL

What type of tranny should I run with the EJ20G, that is most economical/reliable? Just the one outta the WRX?

OK Cool thank you very much

OK, so when I swap the tranny out, I can use the one on the EJ20 right?

It is a dual range 4wd tranny, so it should work right? Powerwise aren't these tranny's good to like 250?

Alright, after some perusing of all of this ej shenanigans I feel I can ask some questions without looking like so much of an idiot. EJ20G+EA82 5SPD=Heartbreak (keeping in mind it is the GL tranny so it's not AWD I wouldn't mind procuring a AWD tranny if need be), or can they play? Can you keep power steering? I would love to just swap the motor and pay for the harness and adaptor. Already did one swap on my 88 GL Did EA82 to EA82T, simple swap, but now I have the quest for more power so I can get rid of any money I moght come across. Sorry about some questions just the info is so scattered out I probly haven't found half of it after 3 hours of searching. now another question, anyway we can take all this info and get it on one thread, like a writeup in the tech section? Maybe a motor swap thread, electrical swap thread and tranny and diff swap thread to cover all the bases of this swap without any holes like I have found. Or maybe scour the vast reaches the internet heap, and compile all the links partaining to this swap and get them in one place. I will probly think of some more questions here real soon. Thanks guys and good to be back I haven't been here in months.

C'mon guys you have no ideas why the ecu wouldn't be grounding the injectors at all? Or where the ecu gets the input signal for when to open the injectors?

I am helping a friend get his subi running, however I have run into a problem. The injectors aren't getting grounded by the ecu, therefore they arent working. we have fuel pressure to the injectors and I tested all of them and they work. I think that the ecu isn't getting a signal from the crankshaft position sensor or something. I don't know where the ECU gets the input signal to tell it which injectors to open. It is thwarting my efforts to make it live again. Any help or explinations are greatly appriciated.

I only did it to the butterfly valve, when I get the money I am going to have him do the rest and fabricate a new butterfly valve he'll do that for 120 bucks I am going to do this later. but just doing it up to the butterfly valve made such a difference to top end, and it added a bit of low end so all and all very worth the money

Had a freind who owns a machine shop do it and it made a huge difference in the high end, revs out so much better now. and costed only 40 bucks. so happy with it

How was it powerwise? any big leap in power? Is it worth it. I am making a drift car/ street car, so would it be reliable enough for that/ Not my daily driver. I want some mile outta the engine if I build it.

The little bastard hauls! The muffler was plugged, so I cut it of and got three exaust tips two with "beveled" rims and welded them together, so it is kinda like a glass pack, and doesn't pop at all sounds really deep like a V8, cut the intake box bottom out, played with the manual boost controller, gutted the car. fun to drive now I just need intercooler hose to hook up intercooler as well as wire my fan up to it. anyway who did to motor build with carbed pistons, how did it work has it lasted so far? anyone know where I can get a carberated shortblock with low or no miles how much? what should I do performance wise next?

Hey tell me how it goes. is most of the plumbing on spfi same as mpfi once everything is switched over?

I got my spfi engine lying around and I am thinking of building it as an ea82T performance oriented engine + teach myself how to rebuild engines. so what performance stuff should I do to it. and would 8.7:1 pistons out of carbed engine be too much still? if not how much boost would be safe on a moderatly built engine? I still want daily driver type of thing and reliability. as well as it to last awhile. right on

if your interested when you get them figured out, i would be interested in buying a set off ya. if not cool too

Ok I will check as soon as this snow melt cuz as of right now it's in a snow drift with like 6 feet of snow on top of it. thank you very much for your help i am really grateful

I would like to If i can get the money together

Yes, I am blowing the dust off it. it is fuse #3 15A Stop Room ECC ( the starter doesn't respond at all instrument cluster dead, no life in key. hazards work as well as dome lights and door bell. all other fuses look good (not blown) but I'm gonna ohm them out just in case.

OHHHHHHHHH MAN this engine swap is sucking years outta my golden years man, I really truely am annoyed with this little bastard. I can't find this damn short anywhere. it's in the stop/room/ecc ( section of fuse box, no power to anything useful. all bells lights and such work exp. front lights and front blinkers. but the damn cluster is dead as well as all action to the key. I REALLY NEED HELP.

Yesssssss........ close....... that's it........ that might be one to check but I can't see how that happened because I swapped the whole harness out (had to) this swap was hellish. spfi - mpfi alone requires everything to be change out everything, and I mean that. the bastards even used different heater fan connectors, can ya believe that. but I can't find this one DAMN short. she might have to go see my mechanic friend. By the way do any of you think a short in one the ECC fuse circuit would cause the starter and cluster to be dead?