82Brat

go to a glass shop...they should be able to cut one and glue it in for you...about $20 (probably a bit more in NYC?)

Start by doing the simple stuff. Tightening the bolts on the oil pan might just stop your oil leak. Simple stuff builds confidence and you can work your way up from there. Do not neglet a coolant leak! These engines (heads specifically) do not hold up well if overheated. Find out where the leak is coming from and get it fixed. It could be as simple as replacing a hose ot tightening a hose clamp. If the radiator itself is leaking, some radiator stop leak may work as a temporary fix. Good luck on your quest and remember, it never hurts to ask.

I've got you all beat! the original coil that came with my 82 GL Brat (24 years ago) still works just fine. Crap...I hope I'm not jinxing it.

If you coud do the work yourself, just about everything you listed could be fixed for about $200 including buying a half-way decent set of tools. You could get all the advice you needed on this forum and you would get a much better understanding of your car. Just an option to consider.

OK only about 120K to go...I'll chek em at 200k...If I'm still alive:grin:

How do you check for brush wear?

Word of warning: PCV system must always be vented to atmosphere (preferably through a filter).

Let's put this into perspective. Lets' say you could by a car that's unusal, you'll get at least 100K out of the engine (even if it already has 100K on it), gets 25-30 MPG, fun to drive, easy to work on, and you can drive it through just about any kind of weather. Would you pay $3500? Oh Yeah...and chicks dig it!

I don't mean to be sarcastic (or maybe I do) but if this happend while speeding down the highway, do you think he might have noticed?

I tried to post pictures of my Brat, But I'm having a hard time figuring out how to do this. Can anyone give me some pointers? And 75 Subie: How much ar you selling your Brat for? Is there an add in the For Sale forum? Thanks, Tonmy

That's a swweeeeeeet looking Brat! How Much? Undercoated an treated with what???

What I meant to ask is: "Are the terminals connected inside our outside the tank (on soobs)." In other words, do you have to remove the whole fuel sending unit (which would then involve re-sealing) or can the terminals be cleaned and tightend from ouside the tank?

also make sure carby mout bolts are tight--no air vaccum leaks

Check ignition timing...should be 8 deg BTC. Also make sure all the mounting bolts on the carby are tight. Finally, could be a faulty anti-dieseling selonoid but I've only read about that and have no clue how to troubleshoot. I've gone to the Weber carb so I don't have one of those any more.

As long as it cranks over, there is hope (at least the engine is not siezed). check all you fluids, make sure you are getting spark and fuel to the cylinders. If it still wont start, then it's time for a compression check.