sirtokesalot

i have a pioneer radio but use the factory speaker wiring from the radio to the doors. this morning i went to leave and had no door speakers at all only subs. i pulled the radio and unhooked speakers one at a time and when i unhooked the drivers door the other 3 speakers came back to life. i took the door apart and found nothing visually wrong but after taking the door apart i was able to re attached the drivers door speaker without it killing the other 3. what can cause this? i also noticed that it was only the ground wire for the speaker that would kncok it out the positive wire would make the speaker come to life but only if i left the ground unhooked. after pulling door apart was able to hook up both wires to the speaker.

had a scare last night with it. apparently the passenger ball joint nut dident like being off and on multiple times over the past year and the nut was compromised. went around a corner and the nut popped off the ball joint and it separated. ended up jacking it up there and re assembling the ball joint using a lug nut for the ball joint to get it home. i swapped the lug nut for a standard castle nut with new cotter pin. it had one of those lock nuts on there before. even found the old nut with the threads tore out of it. i read the torque spec for the ball joint is 29.5 ft pound i put it up to 40 ft pound with new nut and a little more for the cotter so im prety sure it should stay put now. so far no at temp light but i havent really driven it far yet.

well heres my current plan. i just de pinned the tcu connector and the transmission connector from a scrap harness i have in the attic and stole the pins from it. i am going to depin the yellow/green wire from the tcu side and the transmission side and re pin it with a new wire. hopfully this will fix the issue and if not im sure ill be back again. will update in time.

the light was not flashing so i asume it was working at the time i tested it. wiggling wires did not make it drop out ither.

yellow wire with green stripe at tcu. meter on ohm setting and everything connected. on startup both cars show around 15 to 16 ohms in park in reverse both cars show around 60 ohms neutral ol drive 3 2 and 1 around 60 ohms and park only shows an ohm reading when first started that reading goes to ol after a little waiting or after shifting out of park and back to park. readings are within 1 ohm of each other between the 2 cars.

i just dont know what to do or where to look. wires dont appear to be near the steering joints inside or out. im just kind of thinking the only way im going to fix it is to just swap all the wiring. i supose could try to run another wire from the tcu out to the engine bay and connect it to the transmission. i just have doubts because this car has been a pain the whole way trying to get everything working correctly.

i just went out and ohmed the yellow with green stripe wire on both the legacy and the outback i get similar readings from both cars. of course on the outback the light stopped blinking after driving it home in fwd.

79: Transfer duty solenoid. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit. same code it always gives and i have tried changing solenoids on previous transmissions without any long term results.

its back. ive changed the transmission 3 times now and the tcu a few times as well. im thinking i may have a wiring problem. would the engine/dashboard wiring harnesses from a 2001 legacy gt work in my 2001 outback? would i need to use the legacy ecu with the legacy harness or could i just use all of my cars computers with the gt's wiring harness?

still getting the p1591 neutral position switch circuit low input every second start i tryed swapping the inhibitor switch and ecu get same code. what is it the ecu wants to see from the neutral position switch and can i just feed that to it so the code will just never set? the car does start in park or neutral as well.

i undid my bypass earlier and the car is now setting that code with or without the bypass.

so when u did the hot wire thing how did u wire it? in my car i left the stock wiring there and simply added a second system to help the factory setup work. my system is just wired in along side the factory wiring. relay trigger is the key to start position relay gets power from battery and is passed through right to the starter spade post. i left the factory wire attached there as well. my wire is actually attached simply by holding it over the post and plugging the factory wire in so it folded my wire around the tab and is held there just by the fact that the factory wire is plugged in.

my bad it is an automatic.

for a while ive been having a delayed start issue and the other day the key would not start it. i ran a jumper wire from the starter that hung out next to the battery and was turning the key on and touching the wire to the battery to get it started. yesterday i took and wired the ignition switch into a relay so that when i turn the key to crank it would click a relay on and jump the battery positive directly to the starter. this has made the car start reliably again by the key but now im getting a cel code every other start for a p1591 neutral position switch circuit low inpuit that i was not getting before and the wiring diagram does not show a neutral position switch in the circuit. i dont really get it because turning the key on and jumping it manually at the battery would not trigger this code but having a relay jump the starter automatically does. how can i make the cel not come on again and reliably have the car start?

it raises and lowers pretty good. the blade is just a plastic 55 gallon drum cut in half riveted together in the center and has some metal bolted through the back of it. the blade is an actual plow blade though. it weighs the car down pretty good when lifted up. the car is literally built of all the crap leftovers that were deemed to worn out for a daily driver for the sole purpose of being a yard mule. has an overheated block and very sludgy heads from another engine. 15 dollar head gaskets every bushing and ball joint is worn rear end is smashed from an accident prior to me getting it and trunk leaks water. i have the duty c solenoid on a switch so i can manually put the car into locked awd and the airbag fuse pulled out. its filled with all used fluids and has ran longer than weve expected it to. its hauled 1000's of pounds of fire wood and plowed the driveway 2 years so far and still seems to run fine.

Will it come apart? The car never leaves the driveway and never gets over 15mph

i pulled the plugs out from the tops of the struts and poured oil into then filling them to the top and stuck the plugs back on. steering got much easier to turn after. how long u think it will last?

i soaked that joint in pb blaster and had no effect.

it does get driven twice a week up and down the driveway we use it to pull the trash cans up the hill as well. pulleys are decent looking no rust in the groove sections. it was another used belt. i have something like 10 of them around.

the belt is old but does not seem to be slipping. i did try a different belt as well.

my plow cars steering is acting up. started mid winter did not wanna deal with it then and the times come to figure it out. the steering is tight then easy then tight then easy from lock to lock theres no pump whine and i did try swapping the pump for another one i had on the shelf from a tear down. is it possible something could be binding or more likely the rack?

the car made it 1100 miles to and from my mas in vermont over the weekend issue did not return.

ah i had thoght with the o2 unplugged the car would just run at a default value in open loop. ill probly just buy an o2 sensor anyways seeing as its probly original. ive never changed it.

so if it starts missing and acting up again would resetting the ecu and unplugging the front o2 sensor be a good test to see if the sensor is an issue? drive it with the o2 unplugged and if the symptom doesn't return with it unplugged then assume the o2 is bad?

this one is not as important being a yard car i plow with in the winter. over this past winter the wipers stopped working on low and intermittent only work on highest speed and will not park. they simply stop wherever they are when u shut the switch off. is there a common failure or somthing simple and cheap i could do to fix it? if its not a cheap oir free fix ill likely just deal with it seeing as the car is not ever going on the road again.