Mike386

I'll double check, my friend thinks it is an 85 but is not sure. He picked up as scrap and I only looked at it once under the hood; a wedged shaped car. I'll give a closer look tomorrow. If it is a turbo will my current exhaust work with it? Mike P.S. I think I found a picture of it on google, the donor car is an XT, which there is a non-turbo model.

Question: I have an 88 GL WGN w/ 1.8 SPFI Non-turbo and the engine I believe is beyond repair. The heads are toast and the crank may be in sad shape as well (metal shavings in the bottom of the oil pan). I have a friend with an ‘85 suby Rx two door where the body is trashed but the engine, MPFI non-turbo, is good. My question is can I transfer that engine over to my WGN GL without too much of a head ache? What all needs to come over? Both are manual trannys. Do the bell housings match? I assume the computer, wire harness, maybe the instrument panel need to come over. Are the fuel pumps the same? Lay it out for me guys, I need your expertise! -Mikey

Hey guys, I don't know how different the front end of a 91 Loyale is compared to my 88 GL WGN, but on my car if the main axle nut is not torque to spec (145ft/lbs for the 88 GL) you will get a grinding noise out of it. You'll need a 36mm socket with a 1/2" drive and a torque wrench. I'd check out that first before you start dropping money at the auto shop. Or have your mechanic check that out first. -Mike

"Most" any plug works fine if it is used correctly. Some engines are designed to run hotter and the Bosch plugs are designed to run hot. Suby engines generally run cooler thus needing a cooler plug; otherwise you can get misfires and hesitation. NGK's run cooler and are less prone to seize up. Though when dealing with an aluminum block I would always use anti-seize lubricant on the threads. -Mike

I don't think your going to find a quick solution from an additive. I take it that this tapping noise didn't exist before the repair? You may have missed something or something else may be damage as a result of the broken exhaust valve. By any chance did you replace the oil sender o-ring on the cam towers? It is just a little smaller than a dime. If is old and harden it will leak oil and lessen the oil pressure to the lifters. There is also a pressure relief valve spring on the top of the cam tower underneath a 17mm bolt that could be weak. It can be accessed by just removing the valve cover, the oil sender o-ring requires you to pull the cam tower. You do not have to pull the engine to do this. Q.-What is this ATF solution I've heard of. Can the car be run using an ATF/MOTOR oil blend? A. – ATF acts like a detergent and is used for cleaning gunk out of the engine, from what I’ve been told you should only drive the car 100 miles with this blend 3:1 oil/ATF, and then change your oil. Don’t use it on a regular basis. Do not over fill your crank. But I don’t think a dirty lifter is your problem. You say you replaced a broken valve? Did you check and/or replace the valve seat? Did you inspect all the valves and cylinder head for damage?

You could try a short quick blow with a hammer on the head of the bolt, like pounding a nail. That can sometimes break a bolt loose. Also, if you're replacing one bad HG, you might as well do them both if both the gaskets are old; otherwise you'll very likely be doing the same operation again on the other side before too long. Be done with them both in one shot. And be sure to check the heads for warps; just don't slap on a new gasket or you could wind up back at square one. I am doing my heads as I speak, and one head was warped! (88 GL Wagon SPFI) Good luck, -Mike

Loosen or remove the intake bolts on the other side of the engine so you can angle up the end with the busted bolt. That might give you enough room to maneuver the head off. Wiggle and pull, don't hammer, aluminum is soft and you could warp something. If the bolts won't turn, try heating the cylinder head where the bolt goes in with a hand held propane torch and then let it cool for a moment. The expansion and contraction of heating and cooling can help break loose a “frozen” bolt. Also, if you're replacing one bad HG, you might as well do them both if both the gaskets are old; otherwise you'll very likely be doing the same operation again on the other side before too long. Be done with them both in one shot. And be sure to check the heads for warps; just don't slap on a new gasket or you could wind up back at square one. I am doing my heads as I speak, and one head was warped! (88 GL Wagon SPFI) Good luck, -Mike

Rock on!

Before you start replacing parts, I suggest checking the torque setting on the axle nut (36mm). It should be torque to 145ft/lbs. If it is just a little loose it will make that crunching noise. If you drive the car fast the noise will decrease or disappear as the centrifugal force takes the load off the imbalance in the bearing, or making a right turn will relieve the load momentarily on the right wheel and quiet the noise. This will tell you if the nut is loose. And it may or may not feel loose to the touch. Torque it! This problem happened to me after I had removed my drum to inspect my brake shoes and I failed to torque the nut properly. Use a crow bar wedged in between the lug bolts of the drum to hold the axle still while you torque the nut. Time or rough driving can sometimes loosen this nut as well. -Mike

I was able to get to those two bolts using a ¼” elbow socket, 5-6" long extender and a ¼” ratchet. If I remember right I had to maneuvered the socket between the back side of the oil pan and the cross member, the access holes in the cross member may be a little too small for the elbow socket. I didn’t need to unbolt or lift the engine to do this. If the elbow socket is loose and flops around too much, put a bit heavy grease in the elbow joint to steady it. After removing the bolts, carefully lower the oil pan, rotating it 90 degrees to the left or right, one way will work to get it to slide off the oil siphon pipe. Reverse the procedure to install and be sure to allow the silicone gasket seal to cure to full strength (usually 24 hours) before starting the engine or it may leak. Piece of cake! I hope your weather improves. -Mike

88 GL 1.8 SPFI Non-Turbo I replaced the PCV valve which was gummed up, as several people here suggested. I drove the car for a short distance, a mile or two, and suddenly I had a ton of blue smoke pouring out the tail pipe and the engine died the moment I let off the gas. I stomped the pedal several times and the engine finally started back up again. As long as I kept the rpm up around 3000 I was fine, but if let run any lower the h p fell off and it wanted to die. I limped it back home and it finally idle but at 200 or 300 rpm. Also noticed it was blowing oil out of the intake again. Could this be worn or sticking valves? Once again, HELP! -Mike

I have an '88 GL WGN 1.8 SPFI with 180k on it and I just got it running again after my PCV valve went bad and was up-chucking oil, by the way, thanks for the help from everyone here. Now I've noticed the idle is a bit rough, it fluctuates. I checked the timing and saw that the advance was to the max. The manual says it should be -20b at sea level (add about 6 degrees for mountain driving, so I’ve been told), but the distributor is turned to the max and if I turn it back towards -20b it will run really rough. What do you guy’s think; worn or misaligned distributor, sensors, or the computer? -Mike

I'll check the PCV, but the engine is blowing smoke and oil out the tail pipe as well and it dies if I let it drop down to idle speed. I was experiencing noisy (clattering) valves before this happened. Also, when the valves clattered, the engine temp would rise quickly, usually when I was driving up hill. My engine has 180K on it to boot. I was also considering ordering one of those used engines that are suppose to be from Japan, out of California, they claim to have low miles, around 40K. An EA82 sells for $500 plus $150 for shipping, any input on those engine dealers? -Mike

I'll check the PCV, but the engine is blowing smoke and oil out the tail pipe as well and it dies if I let it drop down to idle speed. I was experiencing noisy (clattering) valves before this happened. Also, when the valves clattered, the engine temp would rise quickly, usually when I was driving up hill. My engine has 180K on it to boot. I was also considering ordering one of those used engines that are suppose to be from Japan, out of California, they claim to have low miles, around 40K. An EA82 sell for $500 plus $150 for shipping, any input on those engine dealers? -Mike

To anyone who can help, I have an ‘88 GL WGN with an EA82 SPFI Non-turbo engine that has gone the way of the ghost. Oil is blowing back through the intake, I'm talking bad. But, I have a friend with an ‘87 EA82 Carb engine that is in good shape that he is willing to sell to me. My question is, can I transfer my SPFI manifold over to the new block, are the blocks compatible or are there major differences? -Mike I'll check the PCV, but the engine is blowing smoke and oil out the tail pipe as well and it dies if I let it drop down to idle speed. I was experiencing noisy (clattering) valves before this happened. Also, when the valves clattered, the engine temp would rise quickly, usually when I was driving up hill. My engine has 180K on it to boot. I was also considering ordering one of those used engines that are suppose to be from Japan, out of California, they claim to have low miles, around 40K. An EA82 sells for $500 plus $150 for shipping, any input on those engine dealers? -Mike