Ceramiclover

Good to know. Limited experience with HVAC. This exercise was a good lesson in AC logic. I found it interesting and simple that all of the sensors were in series and any one would open the circuit. If you have 12v at the ECM, all sensors are good.

Also, splitting with diodes, I connected 30 to the AC Fan relay.

As anti-climactically as possible. I hardwired the relay: 85 12v from Pin 60 86 (ground) 87 (ground) 30 (cut ECM out and connect Pin 31 wire) This still utilized the sensors for the safety of the system. It worked for awhile and then stopped. I think there must have been a leak, despite the fact that it held vacuum when I tested it. Then I gave up and sold it for $1000. This was part of my Subaru rescue service. Some girl had driven this into the ground and let it get impounded. I got it to start and to stop leaking gas from the filler neck and pressure regulator. Now it is in a good home with a 16 year old.

several of the 12v contacts had carboned up. I could see them arc as they opened as well. I got it working but I don't know for how long.

Yes. Pretty sure it is an issue with the contact. the toggle was missing when I bought it and the Auto one is physically different than the rest. They have all been pulled from the junkyard so I have been trying to make it work. the contacts were all carboned up last time. i cleaned them and hot glued another toggle on. Lasted a little while, but there has always been an issue with going up from that switch.

I wanted the wiring at the connector. switch was grounding it, so I gave a wire 12v and got it closed. Working on the stupid switch now.

I can't get the service manual links to work. Any other links or options. My window switch in my 96 Legacy is failing and it is about to rain. Have to fix the switch and get window closed.

I put in a junkyard regulator. Pressure now remains at 30PSI after key off. I waited 30 minutes. Pressure was the same. Started right up. I'll keep checking it, but it seems like that did the trick. Thanks for everybody's input. Not much experience in this area. Took me over an hour to get the harbor freight pressure gauge not to leak.

Pressure builds instantly. Fuel filter and air filter are good. Spark plugs are new. PCV could have been old. This is a rescue Sub (like a puppy) I got from the impound lot. It seems like it sat for awhile. Will check PCV and regulator vacuum hose.

No CEL. I replaced the fuel filler neck, because it was leaking. The new one came of an impreza and was slightly different. I think we just capped off an extra vapor hole or something. i don't see fuel leaking anywhere, though.

Are you talking about vapor or an actual gas leak?

Sorry to start a recurring topic, but was looking for some guidance on some key points. Typically: Vehicle cranks endlessly. 2nd attempt (after total of 10 seconds or more of cranking), vehicle starts. Vehicle starts if you put the pedal on the floor, stumbles for a second (gas it), and then runs fine. So far, I have: replaced fuel filter spark plugs ECTS seems to read accurately (I read data list from a Techstream) Disconnected MAF sensor, performed about the same. Someone suggested that an injector could be leaking, so I pulled up both fuel rails and cycled ignition to see if any fuel dripped. None did. II put a fuel pressure gauge on the inlet to the fuel filter. Priming the pump and with engine running is around 35PSI. With key off, pressure drops to 0 within 2 minutes. Is this part of the problem? I have never diagnosed a fuel issue before. I know there have been some issues with the cap and the O ring at the fuel pump. Is there something I should look for? Should I try a junkyard pump?

Someone posted elsewhere on the forum that I can put rims from another subaru on there, as long as they are 16's. Is that correct? I have a guy trying to sell me 15's and telling me they will fit. Also contemplating a trip to the junk yard to just get 4 stock rims. Not a fan of these gorilla lug nuts.

225 60r 16's all around

I have a choice today of paying $40 for spacers or $250 for tires and rims. If I get the spacers for the aftermarket ones, and the tires are the same, do you thing that I would probably be good? Or do I need to look further into the hub spacing?

I bought an 01 Outback that came with 3 aftermarket rims (the ones with lots of holes) and no hub spacers. I am hoping that is what is causing the bad shaking. Getting the spacers today. One wheel looks stock, however. Is this bad for the drivetrain? There has been some groaning coming from the rear end that you only hear sometimes and then only while giving it gas. I drained and refilled the rear diff yesterday. (may have been a bit low, but hard to say. none dripped out when I pulled the top.) Haven't heard it yet.

Can the little valve with the arrow on it have anything to do with this? some air flows through it when I blow into it. There is an arrow on it, that was pointing toward the canister.

I had seen that in a previous forum. In the data list for the ECM, it appeared to be reading accurately. Also, I have no dtc's besides the knock sensor p0325. Or am I missing something? Thanks for your input.

I blew air through the evap canister and could feel it coming out of the bottom. Does that mean it is not clogged? Also, what way should the arrow point on the 2 way valve? It was pointing toward the canister. Today, (48 degrees F), it started right up, was sluggish for 5 seconds and then went to high idle for warm-up.

Does that sound like a logical culprit? The car runs fine once it is started.

Now it went back to having an extended crank issue. Maybe 8 seconds before it will turn over unless you put the pedal on the floor. If you put the pedal on the floor and let go as soon as it starts, it will die. If you rev it once, the idle will stabilize around 8-900. Any ideas? I have replaced the fuel filter. Is the Evap canister the next culprit? And is that under the hood? Thanks

So they are just air lines? Would they have an effect on mpg? Wondering if it was looking lean from intake leak, so it enriched fuel.

The line on the passenger side was not very tight. and there was a hose going into the intake that was broken. What is this hose? It is right next to the Idle Air control

where is the evap canister? I just bought the car. It appears to have sat for a bit in an impound lot before I bought it. Fuel filler neck was rusted and fuel filter was clogged. Car would barely start. Replaced both and it starts reliably, but mpg is still low, and have recently noticed the smell.

I am getting about 18mpg with 87 octane fuel, and have noticed a gas smell at the front of the car. I can't find any leaks. I replaced the fuel filter and the lines at the filter look intact. Then the lines go through the firewall, so I can't see them going back. Is this a common issue? Any ideas?