Ceramiclover

Is it ok to remove the cam carriers without taking it all apart? I was looking at the instructions and it makes it seem like the cams need to come out individually in order to prevent valve contact.

My work is having me put a short block in a 13 Legacy, 4 cylinder, to address oil consumption. I am a Toyota technician, and have done a handful of head gaskets and pistons in Toyotas, but have little to know engine experience with Subaru. Are there any additional resources or videos you guys know of on that repair? Otherwise, I will just be following alldata. I have seen countless accounts from Toyota technicians of blowing up FRS motors doing the Valve Spring recall. I have also seen weird posts about the cam gears spinning or not locking. Just trying to educate myself as much as I can before attempting the repair.

Previous owner crashed the car. Airbag light is on. New to subaru Airbag diag. I wanted to pull the codes, clear, and see if any remain. I believe at least one airbag was replaced. I connected the terminal to #2 and the codes flashed. If I got them right, I got 32 62 51 31 22 61 I connected the other terminal to the other female terminal on same row. The light goes dim and flashes rapidly, but nothing changes. same codes are all stored. I don't think i am doing something right in clearing them. Any advise?

thanks. i will look into that

Fuse 5 was not getting power because of the park light switch. that issue is fixed. I can communicate with other ECU's, so i am not concernedd about dlc power. airbag light is on and i only can't comm with airbag ecu.

my code reader is failing to communicate with the srs ecu. checked fuses. need to check voltage at ecu next. promise not to shoot power or ground into it or flip it over while plugged in. The park switch wasn't doing anything, so i just jumpered the n.c. connections and the system works. i also could not tell from the diagrams which was the taillight relay. And since the circuit was missing 12v on its control side, i could not feel/hear a click. not used to subaru wire guides.

After a lot of time and struggling to follow subaru diagrams, I found that the park light switch was not providing continuity on its normally closed circuit. I jumped it and all taillights work now. Now its time to figure out what the previous owner did with the airbag circuits

I have found a link to the JDM FSM. Not sure if i need the USDM instead. previous owner cut some corners. He had overfused the illumination and used it to feed the taillight clearance circuit, which shows no voltage. When i measure voltage on illumination fuse with lights off, I get 2.5v. On headlight fuses, I get 1.5 with lights off. there is a wire run through the firewall to the back of the fuse box, but i think i need to pull the wheel and fender liner to see where it goes...

Would using the JDM intake cause it to run lean? I have a lean code and the engine wouldn't idle at a consistent rpm with upstream o2 plugged in. I assumed it was because all of the raw fuel had fouled it.

The ignition coil gets signal intermittantly and then not at all on the 3/4 control wire. moreso on 1/2. checked continuity to ecm, which is all plugged in. We did not realize originally that he had put an EJ20 into the car. He gave us the EJ25 that was originally in it. From everything I have read, you need to use the USDM driver cam sprocket and crank tone ring and intake for it to work. I don't think the previous owner did this. He thought he could just drop it in.

Thanks. As we looked into it more, it seems the problem stems from it being a 2.0 liter JDM motor. Going to try putting a USDM Crank tone ring and Cam sprocket and see if that helps.

When you say "the sensors", you just mean cam and crank?

Thanks for telling me what I want to hear.

I bought an 04 Outback from a confused Russian guy who put an EJ20 JDM engine in and couldn't get it running. He gave me the old EJ25, and supposedly it just leaks oil. At present, I have no spark on 1 and 2 at the coil. I have tried replacing the coils and verified continuity on ignition control wiring. After doing a little research, it sounds like it is at least the crank plate and maybe the cam sprocket. Wondering what it would take to get this running or whether my efforts would be better spent fixing the old engine and putting it back in. Also, what should I expect concerning the wiring and the intake?

A friend of mine is looking into this, so I apologize if the info is a bit confused. Also, we bought it from a Russian guy who didn't speak great english and may not have been particularly forthright. They ordered a used motor from Japan, it seems. Eagle Japan Motors. Original is USDM. New motor is JDM He used the USDM harness because some of the plugs on the intake were different, and I think he swapped some over. Test light on ignition control wires shows one grounded all the time and the other switched inconsistently then stops. My friend is wondering if there is a difference in the cam or crank signals. One thing that stuck out to me. Is there no mass air flow sensor on these?

Coil pack rests at 12v and ECU sends ground pulse then, just to be clear? I'm not so smart at some stuff.

The guy has already swapped the ECM and the coil. How are the coils controlled? Is it just a ground pulse on the 2 wires that tells the coil pack to fire on the respective 2 coils? Or is it 12v or AC?

I didn't check fuel pressure, but I did spray throttle body cleaner into the intake. That didn't help. I think I need to figure out why I have no spark on 1 and 2 before I go there. Towing the car tomorrow and will dig in then.

160k, with 60k on a new motor, i guess. I am looking to buy it. The guy already swapped a used coil in there and the lack of spark doesn't change. That is why I was thinking one of the 2 igniter control wires must be open. But if Nipper is right and it should run on 2 cylinders, then I don't know. The only code was ECT, and it was unplugged. I plugged it in, but haven't checked the codes again.

I have an 04 Outback. Cranks but doesn't start. Seems I have no spark on coils 3 and 4. 1 and 2 are good. Wondering if there is an open in the wiring. Could use a wiring diagram if anyone has access to it. Otherwise advise would be appreciated.

The idler spun freely, but I could hear it. I tried to spin the compressor pulley and could not by hand. Or did I screw it up by not spinning the front part?

I assumed last week that it was the compressor and pulled the relay. I will check the tensioner. Thanks

Just spin it and see that it moves freely?

Troubleshooting remotely, so bare with me. Father-in-laws compressor seized, smoked and melted the drivebelt. he is wondering whether he can run the car without that drivebelt. there are 3 pulleys on that belt: AC, Crank, and something I don't know. Is the lower one just an idler or is that important? Thanks.

Find out if you have 12v at Pin 60 at ECM when it is inop. if so, then it is the same problem. sounds like low refrigerant, though.