Ceramiclover

In a similar boat. I had torque bind until I put the fuse in. The FWD light stayed on for a week or so and is now out. I put the fuse in and see ground on both sides. Is this circuit ground-side controlled? Curious why the FWD light would stop coming on.

I have 12v at 60, but no ground at 31.

I'm not going to bypass the relay. I am going to use the 12v FROM the sensors to trip a relay and ground the relay under the hood. I think I may need to use the ground from the AC switch. This way, the compressor should cut out if any of the sensors opens. Is this how the ECM normally does it? Or does it duty cycle it more actively?

I think they just have a typo on the yellow wire splice. I think yellow from thermal switch on compressor splices onto yellow from evaporator thermal switch

What years and models would have the same ECM if I went to the junk yard?

12V at Pin 60 and 31 of ECM. Grounded 31 and AC got Cold. Does this mean that all safety sensors (Pressure, thermal on compressor, and on evaporator) are good, but the ECM is not turning on relay? Therefore faulty ECM? If so, could I bypass ECM by wiring relay: 85 12v from Pin 60 86 (ground) 87 (ground) 30 (cut ECM out and connect Pin 31 wire) Or am I going to screw everything up by not allowing the ECM to control duty cycle?

"If you have no ground at 86, find the evap thermo switch connector behind the glove box. This is a black 3 wire connector just above the resistor block (blue connector) Yuo should have 12v at all three wires when back-probing the evap switch connector with AC on. The evap switch provides 12v signal to the ECU that commands the relay to ground. The AC switch in the dash sends 12v to the center pin, the thermal switch on the compressor sends 12v to pin 3, and pin 1 is 12v out to the ECU. If you have 12v at all three, check pin 60 at the ECU for 12v. " It seems like the center pin is ground side controlled from the control head. It rests at 12v at goes to ground with AC switched on. The sensor shows + - L on it. The outside pins both had 12v. I supplied a ground to it to see if it didn't have a good enough ground. nothing. Jumped 12v to it with switch on and it tripped my power probe circuit breaker. seems ground-side controlled.

Do you have a diagram for the ECU? Wire color and visual position would be helpful. Thanks.

I have done both. Just went out and grounded 85 (or 86) of relay. Clutch engaged. I might be able to grab an ECM and try that. Otherwise, how do you test (and where) the evaporator thermostat switch? Thanks for your reply.

Anybody? Kinda stuck

In the same boat. Driving with the FWD fuse in has been going fine. Wondering if how legit it would be to just wire a switch to make the car 4WD. Or do I not understand this system well enough? Wondering if it is worth it to try drain/refill with a new tranny filter $25. The fluid looks perfect and at the right level, so I was hesitant. I pulled the tranny code, and it was the duty c. I am looking to sell the car, preferably without replacing Duty solenoid C, as I have never opened a tranny before. But I do not want to do something that will knowingly damage the vehicle.

All fuses in engine compartment are good. Clutch relay terminals 85 (or 86) and 87 had 12v as well. 0 ohms at pressure switch. 0 ohms at pins 2 and 3 of 3 pin connector on top of compressor. I had OL before, but that may have been due to bad connection on my part, or doing it with the engine cold from sitting. Today, I tested it after jumping (87 to 30) the compressor for 10 seconds or so.

I have a 2.2 Legacy Wagon L series. The AC does not work. Light comes on at control head. System was empty. I Charged it up, and it did not appear to leak. It held vacuum for 10 minutes. Jumped AC Relay and compressor engaged. Relay does not appear to be getting ground from ECM. I checked continuity between terminals 2 and 3 of the sensor on the AC and it was OL. I put a rheostat on this and went from 5k to 0 ohms. Nothing. As I understand it, this is a thermal protection switch on this model. Therefore, a given resistance should mimic a proper temperature. Jumpered pressure switch. Nothing. Checked ECM. Wiring looks good. There are splices at the wiring, but they appear to be factory splices that drop wire gauge going into ECM. Wire diagram for 97 seemed to have the right colors. Any ideas? I have read what other people have done, and am stuck. Any help is appreciated.