lstevens76

Have you had the alternator tested? The battery was fried, possibly from the jumpstart, so you need to check the alternator.

For anyone else searching '95 was a crossover year. There are both OBD1 and OBD2 Subaru's from '95. I've actually seen both and one of them was a '95 coupe w/ a 1.8L so it isn't limited to the 2.2L either. It may be a production date thing as to which system the cars came with, but it is possible to be either or in '95.

There is no updated gasket for the EJ22 because they didn't have the same failure design flaw as the EJ25. And a RockAuto receipt instead of a shop receipt means the person either did it themselves or had a backyard mechanic do the work.

First, you can reuse the head bolts. Subaru doesn't even recommend replacing them. The EJ22 doesn't tend to have external oil leaks from the heads. I can't remember how the oil jackets run on the EJ22 off the top of my head, but I don't believe the same oil leak on the EJ25 SOHC is even possible on the EJ22. That being said what it sounds like (if this is an EJ22) that the owner had a DOHC 2.5L and they swapped in a junkyard engine that may or may not have had blown head gaskets when it was installed. Check the top of the block to know for sure which block it is. As for gaskets, Amazon has the Subuaru OEM gasket set for around $250. The last one I did I used OEM head gaskets and the evergreen full gasket set. Worked great.

Oh, and to add you are actually getting 2 codes for the MAF. 23 and 49 are both related to the MAF. If that MAF is reporting that it's getting a ton of air the ECU is going to dump fuel. On top of that you have a knock sensor code which will cause the ECU to adjust the ignition timing based on that, which can cause problems as well. This is why I'm telling you to get rid of codes. Always start with what you "KNOW" is wrong and fix that. Don't go jumping off on tangents until you fix what you know is wrong. Once you can clear codes and not get any back your ready to move onto mechanical stuff or things the ECU isn't going to report. That ECU is controlling the air/fuel mixture and the ignition timing.

How it works: "PURPOSE The air flow sensor measures all air entering the engine through the intake system. This information is vital to the ECU to determine proper fuel mixture and ignition control configurations. LOCATION The sensor is mounted to the air cleaner box in front of the right strut tower. CONSTRUCTION A hot-film sensing head is used to measure air flow. Air flow is measured by determining the cooling effect on the sensing head. OPERATION Whenever the ignition is ON, the sensor produces an output signal to the ECU. The hot-film sensing head acts as a temperature sensitive resistor. The ECU maintains the sensing head at a preset constant temperature. As air passes over the hot-film, it has a tendency to cool. Since the sensor head changes resistance based on temperature, a varying current is required to maintain constant temperature. The internal circuitry of the sensor monitors this changing current demand and sends a varying voltage output signal to the ECU, tracking current required."

This is now how you test a MAF and it does not mean it's functioning correctly. " A faulty air flow sensor will set code 23 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the sensor with the diagnostic chart. If an air flow sensor that is incorrect for the vehicle model is installed, code 49 will set (whether the sensor itself is faulty or not). Automatic transmission models use a hot film type air flow sensor and manual transmission models use a hot wire type. These are not interchangeable. Wire color code identification: L: Blue B: Black Y: Yellow G: Green R: Red W: White Br: Brown Lg: Light green Gr: Gray AIR FLOW SENSOR DIAGNOSTIC CHART CHECK ECU VOLTAGE 1. With ignition "ON," measure voltage across ECU connector terminals and ground as follows: Connector & terminal:Voltage: (B48)8-Ground 10-13V (engine "OFF") 13-14V (engine at idle) (B48)9-Ground 0-0.3V (engine "OFF") 0.8--1.2V (engine at idle) (B48)10-Ground 0V (engine "OFF") 0V (engine at idle) CHECK ECU HARNESS AND RESISTANCE 1. Disconnect ECU and air flow sensor connectors. 2. Measure resistance between ECU and air flow sensor connectors as follows: Connector & terminal:Resistance: (B48)8-(B1)1 0 Ohm (B48)9-(B1)4 0 Ohm (B48)10-(B1)2 0 Ohm 3. Measure resistance between air flow sensor connector and ground: Connector & terminal:Resistance: (B1)1-Ground 1M Ohms min. (B1)4-Ground 1M Ohms min. (B1)2-Ground 1M Ohms min. (B1)3-Ground 0 Ohm"

If it actually fires the crank or cam sensor should be throwing a code if they are the problem. The computer is reporting a variety of problems and you need to start there. If you know all those items are 100% working correctly, then clear the codes (disconnect battery for a bit) try again and then pull them again until you get "NO" codes. Once the codes are cleared then trying looking for stuff not reported if the problem is not fixed.

http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/ Find anothe MAF to test with. That's probably the problem. Or unplug it and the computer should go into limp mode.

Our cars easily support 16" tires, it's some of the larger ones that can be an issue and going down to 14" can sometimes be an issue. Bigger rims is rarely an issue and a site like this: http://tire-size-conversion.com/ can help to see what difference it will make on the speedometer. And I have gotten better deals off Craigslist than eBay or any local company. Craigslist is no different than your local thrifty nickel for the most part, with a lot more ads anymore.

So you have an AWD and one bad tire, which is basically the same position I am in. The difference is I didn't worry about "1 tire". I hopped on craigslist and searched, not based on "exact tire size" but I also searched for full 15" sets and then checked them against my tire size for potential speedometer differences. What I ended up finding and will be picking up Monday is a full set of 16" rims and tires w/ over 80% tread on them for $200. The searches for craigslist would be: 15" Tires Subaru Tires 5x100 tires Etc.... Being in New England doesn't tell me a lot or I could probably find a full set fairly cheap if I knew the area. Also, my old tires will be going on craigslist (just the tires, keeping the rims). The front tires are in good shape so I'll sell them to recoup some money since there are a lot of FWD vehicles that take 15" tires on the road.

http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-codes.com/Subaru%20OBD1%20Decoder.htm There you go.

Have you tried plugging in the service connector and checking for codes on the dash?

Backup a lot here. Mileage = I don't care. Here is what matters when deciding whether to put money into a repair or when purchasing a used car: 1.) Rust. Since you live on the east coast rust can be a killer. What is the rust like on the body, frame, struts, etc... 2.) What work has already been done to the car? Have the struts been replaced, are the struts good? How is the interior, body, etc.... I have a '00 OBS with almost 200k on it that I will probably keep past 400k. The body is in good shape with little to no rust (definitely no rust in the worrisome areas) and I just put new struts on the front. My '01 Durango has 201k on it and I will probably keep it until the engine dies (no signs of that happening anytime soon) and then I might just swap or rebuild the engine because again, no rust. When your evaluating a used car, or a repair to your current car, you need to look at the condition of the body/paint, what repairs it needs, what repairs have recently been done, and what repairs are probably coming up soon (such as Timing Belt, strut replacement, brakes, tires, etc...) Anyone buying a 2.5L needs to either know the head gaskets have been done or plan on having them done, enough said. If your neighbor purchased a 2.5L used without knowing this and didn't do it while it was out of the car (and I would have done it again while it was out of the car anyways) that is there own fault, not the fault of the engine. For $1,500 they probably plan to put an engine in it and drive it. The problem I see is it is showing rust in the rear quarter panels and without being able to see the strut mounts personally I wouldn't touch one like that. You mention the bargain sites, but you never mention craigslist? Both of my cars and my previous OBS all came from craigslist.

Have you tried craigslist? I don't know what part of New England you are in but a search brought up a full set of 205/65r15 that would work fine in Providence for $130. When checking craigslist for full sets you can also look at "close" sizes.

Pushing coolant into the overflow is a pretty good sign of a blown Head gasket. Take it for a drive and when it starts getting warm get out and look for bubbles in the overflow.

When was the last timing belt change? Pull those covers and look at the timing belt. It sounds like the timing belt skipped teeth causing the codes and no power.

I agree with fairtax and that there seem be a lot of 15" tires still around in my area as well. Used tires tend to run $25 to $45 here depending on which place and location. I just picked up a full set of 195/65/r15 for my grandfather's trailer off craigslist here for $90 total (all 4 tires @ 80% or better tread). You just have to be patient and look around. I know that's hard to do when your running on a spare w/ a fuse in.

Actually it's 195 on Subarus. There has been a lot of time and research put into the "optimum" operating temperature for an engine. What this calculates in is fuel usage, air usage, how clean the engine burns, is there heat available for the inside (secondary to the first), etc... The optimum temperature for all of these combined on most vehicles is 190 to 195f. The reason some racing thermostats are lower is an engine will run differently at colder temps whether it is carb or injected and the computer reacts differently to colder temps supply more fuel, etc... What a lot of places consider "OE" is not. Many aftermarket cheap OE replacements are not as big or as well built as the OEM. If you search around there's a picture of an OEM vrs an Afermarket thermostat for Subaru's. It makes the difference very obvious. You have about a month you could safely run without a thermostat, but it isn't going the fix the problem just buy you a little more time "MAYBE" and by running it you could make the problem worse as well. When winter hits your going to want a thermostat in it. No defrost can really suck.

"By The Book" a Complete Motor Swap (not a JDM, etc... where you are swapping bits and pieces) is what I posted above. I didn't say it couldn't be done faster, but a lot of shops go by book rate. 6 Hours is basically taking a junkyard engine that is "complete" and matches to the year (i.e. no sensors to swap, etc...) and installing it. For an R&R where you are swapping over intake, sensors, etc... it's rated at 10.9 hours. I know for fact I can do one myself in under 5, but book time accounts for the possibility of problems especially in the rust belt. Info is from Alldata Book Rates which are provided by Subaru actually.

Seating it to an automatic is easy if you don't pull the torque converter. A full R&R with a complete junkyard engine should be no more than 6 hours. Tack on 1 hour for new tb kit. That's 7 hours labor plus the cost of a tb kit.

Ok, average running temperature of a car: 185f to 210f depending on the brand, model, etc... Boiling temperature of water: 212f You get slightly warmer than running temp (for a subaru can vary from 195 to 210) and your boiling water. What your also forgetting is the higher elevation and lower ambient temperatures can cause water to boil below 212f. Then you also have to factor in that depending on outside conditions water can give off steam and evaporate at lower temperatures than normal as well. In other words it wouldn't be hard to have the system giving off steam which is evaporating out the overflow hence lowering the coolant level and causing increased heat for the water to boil.

With all the overheating and adding coolant what's your coolant to water ratio? One thing that can cause bubbling is a low coolant mixture where the water can still boil. Just a thought.

Thos has a ton of various posts you can look up as to his problems with this car and the steps he has been taking to diagnose it. At this point though I would just order an Evergreen Full Engine gasket set + Fel-Pro or OEM gaskets, pull that engine and replace the gaskets. IIRC the thermostat, water pump, and radiator have already been replaced. That leaves only the heater core, hoses, and head gaskets left other than possibly the ECT providing incorrect readings. And yes I've dealt with a BHG on a 2.2, it just isn't very common. And if the leak is not "severe" as mine on my 2.2 was your never going to see a compression problem.

Properly check the front ball joints. Get it in the air (jack, jack stands, etc...) and put a pry bar between the ball joint and control arm and check for movement. They can click when turning and based on your mention of hearing it going over bumps leads me to believe they are moving. I highly doubt a differential or AWD clutch system is going to be causing this specific problem due to the timing of the symptoms occurring. This sounds like a suspension or steering component. Another possibility is Struts or Strut Mounts.