lstevens76

When I looked they actually listed the Denso, with the OEM part number, for both the manual and the automatic.

There is nothing wrong with Bosch and rockauto when I just looked has the Denso at $109........

A "flush" for a Subaru means draining 3 qts (which is what comes out and 1/3rd of the capacity) then refilling it, running it, then repeat 2 more times to get most of the transmission fluid changed out. The transmission fluid they used is probably fine. I know people out there running Valvoline Maxlife multi-vehicle in both 4EAT and the 5EAT without problems. Have the transmission inspected by a transmission shop if possible. Based on the sounds of it though if damage was done it was very minimal. You also have a written statement of fault by the company who caused this so I doubt they would fight it if you can trace a future problem back to being run low on transmission fluid.

Just because an engine was overheated doesn't mean you replace it. Most of the time you can repair it just as easily as a junkyard engine. On a car w/ bad head gaskets or overheating my concern would be whether coolant and oil mixed in the crankcase. If that didn't occur I wouldn't be heavily concerned about an overheat as long as it gets repaired correctly. That being said, it shows your looking in Midvale, UT just south of Salt Lake. Your account shows your in Wyoming. If your going to travel to pick this car up I would check both Southern Idaho (Boise to Twin Falls area) and the Reno area as well. Based on what you posted I know there are some cars well within the budget that are well taken care of in Idaho, and Reno seems to have lower prices than Idaho or Utah for Subaru's. I purchased the engine in my '00 OBS outside of reno for about a 1/5th of what it would sell for here. I've also watched and passed up some flat out steals on Subaru's out of Reno (compared to here). The big catch on the generation your looking at it is making sure it has already been repaired and done right. Knowing this you might be best to purchase one w/ a blown head gasket and having the work done. This way you know it was done right and you don't have to sweat it. But, if you want a good deal this is the wrong time of year. If you can wait another 60 days prices will start coming down again. We are in the "back to school" jack up the price the period of sales. Broken down cars tend to go down in price right now and anything that runs tends to go up. The reason for this is the amount of buyers since high school kids are spending there summer earnings to buy cars, parents are buying kids cars, etc.... Every fall the prices go up starting around mid-august to the end of october.

Rackdoctor.net Lifetime warranty and only around $150 + core w/ a free return shipping label...................... Opposedforces.com will show you which subaru's interchange.

I believe that is the purge control solenoid. Japan had different emissions requirements than the US and as such different emissions systems. Base the intake and drivers side cam sprocket/crank sprocket on what computer you are using not the engine.

Make it easier next time: https://store.snapon.com/Ball-Joint-Swivel-Socket-Spark-Plug-Ball-Joint-Swivel-5-8-6-Point-P647550.aspx :-)

The lower one is the belt tensioner. Make sure it was the compressor that actually seized and not the tensioner pulley.

$1,100 to replace a rack is fairly steep. Typically if I see a high mileage car w/ a torn boot I will recommend a rack replacement, but not at that price. First, if this is the 03 Baja your name implies, Rackdoctor.com sells a full rebuilt rack for $154.95 ($199.95 or $249.95 would be reasonable markup prices at a shop). Second, on that same '03 Baja it is a .6 Hour job to R&R the entire rack. Even at your average dealer rates that's only $60 to $70 labor. Tack in an alignment and your still not up to $400.00 for most areas. If that is the original rack, replacing it wouldn't hurt. Your seals are worn and so is the rest of it. By replacing it you are essentially eliminating any other possible points of failure.

Not until you at least try to get the pin out. That pin is in the bracket, not the caliper itself. See what the pin looks like before making a decision.

You should pull that pin, check for damage if it needs replaced and make sure to grease it upon reassembly.

Yes both pins on a disc brake caliper are supposed to slide. This allows the pad to move evenly. I would suspect someone didn't grease the pins last time the pads were changed.

That's a lot of oil on the bottom of the main seal to be just crud, but you never know. As for them never leaking, I have to disagree. I have a Phase 2 EJ22 w/ the steel separator plate in my car that the Separator plate was "NOT" leaking on yet the rear main was. I have a Phase 2 EJ22 w/ the steel separator plate in my garage that again, the separator plate is now showing any leaking, but the rear main is (at 194k miles, but also a bad rod). I've also seen others with the rear main leaking. They do not always last the life of the car, they are a seal and can (and eventually will) fail simply because you have metal rubbing on a rubber surface it's going to wear. Personally there is enough crud on that main seal, and towards the top where the separator plate leak appears towards the bottom, I would replace it. But I've done a lot of rear mains and already learned how to seat one properly (after you have to repull an engine a couple of times you quickly learn how to do it right). What does concern me on that (would need to see a picture after it's cleaned up) is that the top of it looks like it may be gouched a little. You can't tell until it's cleaned up. What you don't mention is how many miles are on it?

I would change it since it's leaking. Two reasons the board dissuades, 1. You have to drive and seat it correctly or its going to leak and the only way to change it again us to pull the engine. 2.) They don't go bad very often so most of the time people say (only replace if leaking). i.e. don't plan on doing it until you actually see a leak.

It's simply called Autozone making it more difficult to buy parts, as usual. This is all due to a Subaru TSB that affects 2013+ models, but allows two different oil filters for the 2011/2012 models: "For the Naturally Aspirated 2011 and 2012 Forester (only) these oil filters are interchangeable, and either one may be used. However, this will not be the case with other future Subaru models using these filter part numbers. Design requirements of future models will necessitate the use of a specific oil filter part number for each application going forward. Therefore, these parts will not supersede within our parts system and we will be carrying inventory of both parts." And the NA and Turbo are different, but all they needed for that was the trim. The XT is the only one that came with a Turbo so any other trim is obviously going to be an NA, or (since the OP posted which engine) they could have just asked which engine (2.5 NA or 2.5 Turbo). Part numbers for future reference: 2.5 NA Oil Filter Subaru 2011 Forester (2012 as well) 15208AA12A 2.5 Turbo Oil Filter Subaru 2011 Forester Turbo 15208AA130

Yeah, he didn't and that is a good question since I was basing on an EJ22 or EJ25. And the EJ25 And EJ20 bearings are still available on Amazon (race) but supplies appear to be dwindling fast so King may he a better option. Supplies dwindling tends to not he a good sign no matter how good the product is.

Yeah Subaru calls it a "Plug" and the o-rings are as fairtax said. :-)

There are also O-Rings on the back of that cam. If I had it out I would do both rear cam seals/o-rings (think it's just O-Rings under the plate), front cam seals, front crank seal, reseal the oil pump and tighten it up, timing belt, water pump, tensioner, separator plate, inspect the rear main seal and replace if necessary, valve cover gaskets. I would also inspect the heater hoses (easily replaced w/ the engine out) and all vacuum lines (some of the ones under the intake are a lot easier to replace w/ the engine out). Oh, Oil Pickup tube O-Ring and oil pan return O-Ring. I doubt your pan is leaking, but both engines I've replaced those on at 180k to 200k the O-Rings were toast in there.

Grab your FSM for your car: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152944-factory-service-manuals/ If the subaru turbo is routed like most (haven't worked on one yet) be connected between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust along with the intake ducting. It shouldn't be too difficult, just time consuming (especially if you've never replaced a turbo before).

A clogged cat is a damaged cat. It has caught so much emissions that it is full. You never gave the miles but my 2000 OBS still has the original cats at 200k. A catalytic converter on a properly maintained car should last 200k+ miles.

Evergreen or mitzumo for the timing stuff. A full OEM gasket kit is available on Amazon for $230 or so. By the time you buy OEM head gaskets + a kit you'll be up around $180 anyways. ACL race bearings run around $100 for a complete set. Get the .01 oversized for better oil flow. For rings I would check OEM pricing personally.

Fairtax listed one thing, but the other is if they didn't regrease the caliper pins on the last few brake pad changes it could have easily degraded the boot. I know you were having problems with the pin sliding as well which leads me to think the lack of greasing is what destroyed them.

A cat should not cause the "RICH" smell, although it will hide a rich smell because that is what it is designed to, store all those extra emissions. I would agree with Fairtax that there is probably another issue that needs corrected as well. Keep watching for codes and check things because you don't want to blow up another cat or cause other problems.

I would go with ball joint. Get that side in the air and put a pry bar between the control arm and the knuckle and try and push the ball joint up. If you have play, your ball joint needs replaced.

The manual transmission has the pigtail, not the automatic. It's two different parts for two different setups.