lstevens76

My 2000 Outback Sport has power windows, power locks, power mirrors, and cruise. That's it. The only thing with Subarus is checking for head gasket problems and, depending on the year and engine, possibly making sure they were already done.

Replace that cabin air filter. It's only $10 to $15. From my experience the Fram fresh air are actually the best w/ baking soda to deodarize,especially if anyone has allergies. Either way those get nasty and can affect your health.

That's right. Yes an OEM one is expensive.

Put a filter or cheese cloth on top of the pan. And stick your finger through the drain hole when it's empty to check for sludge. Any sludge buildup could be holding the metal from coming out with the oil of there are problems.

It could be so clogged the ball doesn't move.

When your doing an engine swap with an engine that didn't have a belt on it there is no way to align the marks The problem was probably never timing though. After retiming it twice the crank sprocket stopped in a spot where I noticed two teeth missing.....

OEM Phase 2 EJ22 Head Gaskets. Felro makes a set but they want more for it than you can usually get OEM ones. That's an EJ222 or EJ223. I would be having a discussion with that mechanic myself.

It's off by a tooth somewhere I'm fairly certain. Going to retime it in a moment.

Good. I just wanted confirmation they are right.

I know, I do this all the time, but it's nice to get confirmation or fix what's wrong.

I wouldn't doubt it's more work but if he's doing it himself it may very well be worth the time.

So just look for a donor car with a blown engine. :-)

H6 vrs an H4 (I've seen them in the engine bay) is probably 10 hours of work vrs 6 comparatively. But if your going to pull the engine why not just have the heads machined (find a reasonable machine shop) and reassemble it? Swapping in a used engine for head work just seems wrong.

It was definitely a rod or main bearing........

They may have changed, but as far as I know Subaru doesn't use Oil Pan gaskets. They are Silicone Sealant. I've heard you can pull the pan while the engine is in the car, but it's a lot harder. As for the other issues, the AC is probably due for belt replacement and so is the power steering/alternator belt if it hasn't been done already. You might be able to tighten the tensioners, but this just buys time and doesn't correct the problem. Regarding the power issue, when were the plugs done last? If that has wires (and not coil packs) when were they last changed? PCV Valve Changed? Fuel Filter, and Air filter changed? And how many miles are on the car? And, since you know you have a leak, is your oil full?

So, I learned something. If you use an 18" Flex Head Ratchet you can get that bottom driver's side bell housing nut from the top! It's out! No longer fighting it so all I need to do now is drain the oil (which I should have already done, I know), then pull her out. I need to swap a few components then put the new one in.

Do it yourself next time. It takes a 12mm socket, an extension, and a ratchet and about 30 minutes (takes a bit finagling the plug around). And these should be under warranty. If the mechanic is charging you I would question what he is doing.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/116520-knock-sensor-101-and-replacement/ That's the best place to start, but a few things: 1.) Where are you buying them? Brand? 2.) Are you sure you have no other problems? 3.) Is the entire area clear of debris when you installed it (Mine was really dirty and I had to clean that area). 4.) Are you overtightening the bolt?

Ok, I must be the anomaly but if I'm going through "ANY" oil in less than 5k miles I start diving into what is causing it. And I avoid additives, unless I'm cleaning out a block, as I have yet to see any real "proof" they do anything other than stop a leak that should realistically be repaired. I have a 2001 Dodge Durango that doesn't use a drop of oil between changes (literally) with changes varying between 3k and 5k (I do a lot of towing with it so they tend to be more frequent). It uses Dyno oil. My '90 Legacy L I had didn't use oil at all with over 230k on the odometer. The '96 OBS I had did use oil and I pulled the engine, replaced all the seals, resealed the oil pan, etc... and dropped synthetic in it. It didn't use oil after that either. I can't compare the current Phase 2 motor though as I'm in the middle of swapping it and need to repair some leaks on the new one.

How old are the spark plugs? Fuel filter is another possible culprit.

Yeah, but chains need replaced as well and timing belts usually tend to be cheaper.

It's a 2000 Outback, put a code reader on that first.

That means the boot is tight, not the metal part that hooks to the spark plug. If it's lose and arcing the arcing could be creating enough force to push that boot off.

Have you tried swapping the wire with #3 and seeing if the problem persists? That will eliminate the wire being the cause of the problem. It could be you caught a wire with a lose cap it in as well.

What brand of plug wires did you use? Some of the cheaper ones are just that, cheap, and have issues.