lstevens76

For the older Subarus I've been told Lucas is the better option. One shop here claims they were able to get a fully non-engaging subaru transmission to engage and operate with Lucas.

Has he ever seen any coolant on the ground under his car (just little drops)? Does he check his coolant level regularly to see if he is losing it before these overheating issues occur? Intermittent doesn't tend to be the radiator cap, but I would still replace it as a precautionary measure. It's only around $15 (or less) from the dealer and well worth the peace of mind. The other question would be are the fans on when this occurs?

Start with the simple things. You know your getting spark, but are you getting it consistently? Also, are you consistently getting fuel? I don't see a fuel filter on the list. And when was the air filter replaced? Yes a super clogged air filter can cause problems.

Have you tried bleeding the brakes? Sometimes air in the system can mess with the ABS and cause a pulsing sensation. The same thing applies for a vehicle speed sensor used by the ABS. If it is starting to fail it could be throwing some erroneous information that is causing the issue.

Actually the frankenmotor is supposed to have higher compression and more power than the EJ25D from everything I've read. I'm not sure how using a 1.8l intake on that will affect it though.

Both times I've downloaded it I ended up with that actual installer. I suspect you ate clicking on an ad.

This may sound odd, but have you tried (providing it's not hung up somewhere) closing the door for a few minutes then opening it? The belt should start retracting on its own.

FreeSSM-1.2.5-windows-qt4-installer That is the actual name of the installer from sourceforge. I have no clue what you are downloading.

http://sourceforge.net/projects/freessm.berlios/files/latest/download Download it from sourceforge. I just downloaded it and got no malware or trojans.

Have you had your catalytic converter tested for flow?

First, why are you replacing pistons due to a rod knock? A rod knock usually starts as a bearing issue and you may need to replace one or more rod but the pistons don't necessarily need replaced. Especially if you haven't pulled the motor and inspected the pistons/rings. How many miles are on the car? Have you priced a crank kit yet (crank + bearings), etc...?

I was going to do that, but I can't find my damn multimeter. :-/ Doesn't help I'm having a very long day. Guess I was raised different than kids today. "If you aren't 100% sure, don't touch someone elses project. Even then, best to ask before touching". At least that is how I was raised.

It turns freely. I wired a plug up to a known good working fan (PO had one of them butt connected together and the other one hot wired to the battery) and same issue. But now I'm trying to locate the main fan relay and supposedly there is a sub fan relay under the dash................

Ok, so I finally get everything back together. The condenser fan didn't work from day one because the PO had it hot wired to the battery (yeah, no longer that way). He did this by cutting the pig tail and wiring it right up. Well, in order to correct this I picked up two fans from a buddy that are supposed to be good. I've been having issues with AC at an idle so today I plugged in the test mode connector, and the sub fan didn't come on. Since the main fan worked correctly I swapped relays between the two. The main fain still worked correctly and the condenser fan again didn't come again. I then replaced the 20A fuse, even though it didn't visibly appear blown, and again it didn't come on. To note I could feel the relay for the condenser fan clicking when the test mode connector was on. So I'm down to either a problem in the harness, a ground issue, or a bad fan. My problem is I can't figure out what ground is for the condenser fan. The way the FSM reads it sounds like the sub fan has a separate ground compared to the main fan, but damned if I can find it in the FSM. And no, I haven't put a multimeter on the plug yet nor pulled the fan so I could test it. I know I need to take those steps as well, but when they said ground I figured that would be a good place to check as well. Thanks in advance.

First many of these choices pop up on normal and advanced installs for the additional software. Second, you have to read it. If you read it they usually state that declining this does not decline the software you want, it's just in the small print. And if it isn't something you want installed just decline anyways and go try and find the software elsewhere or a different software.

Neither is ultra grey. It does work fine. A large framing square usually works well for a flat edge. Checking it can save you abother tear down and wasting a gasket set......

Those are alignment dowels which Subaru calls straight pins. If they are messed up "at all" replace them. They are only a couple dollars each at the dealer. You won't hurt the engine by turning it on itS side or even upside down (which is what I did) to do the oil pan. No gasket on the oil pan. I used ultra grey for the oil pump and oIL pan. Give us pictures of the block. And did you check it for flatness?

Because you didn't read before clicking "accept" most likely. What many have started doing is adding additional accept/decline options. If you read it your not declining the software you want, just the extra bs.

So I'm guessing it runs ok? Post a video of it running.

The reason I recommended witchhunter.Com is because they have a good solid reputation for rebuilding and checking injectors. Unlike rebuilt ones they yest and rebuild the ones you send in. They are fairly well known in the tuning community.

Well it's a $3,000 car from KBB. The bug question is the machine shop. Here is what I see at an expensive shop: $350 for OEM gasket set. $1,370 in labor ($100/hr) $495/head so $1000 for two completely rebuilt heads (if there isn't a machine that low there then ship them to Boise, I'D Import Engine Supply) Worst case scenario shouldn't be much over $2,600. Realistically you should be able to get it done for half that.

Your location says "PNW" so your somewhere in the pacific northwest. I'm guessing Oregon or Washington (I'm in Idaho). Per Automd.com doing both head gaskets on that car is a 13.7 hour job. Your going to need a gasket set (full set) and a valve job done. The valve job shouldn't be more than $300 for both heads + parts if the valves aren't damaged. This would include new valve stem seals installed at the same time and camshaft seals (since your going to have a machine shop have it apart anyways). You find a mechanic @ $50/hr (yes there are good ones out there at that rate) and your looking at $685 or less for labor (a good mechanic is usually no higher than book time, and they charge less if they can do it faster). All total, doing it right and resealing the entire engine should be able to be done for around $1,300 I would suspect but you never said what you were quoted. Here's the thing. You sell it and get say $1,000. You put that down on a new to you used car and start making even $100/month payments on a 4 or 5 year loan................. Yep, you got a newer car and now you have $4,800+ in a loan on the car. Spend $1,300 and drive the car for 3 more years for less than that $100/month car payment.

I hadn't looked to see where your at but if your in the Northwest there is one in Boise as well. You could also ship them, as I said above, or buy a used set and have them shipped to you. All I was pointing out is buying new ones isn't the only option and there are a lot cheaper options. As for taking a chance on used ones, you are right. But if you buy 4 used ones for say $60 shipped and send them into witchhunter.Com to be refurbished your still spending less than new.

What this comes down to is 2 things: 1.) Always download from a site you trust and the best bet is always the software publisher (i.e. adobe for adobe, sourceforge for projects like freessm, malwarebytes for malwarebytes, etc...) 2.) READ, READ, READ, AND READ. 99% of the time that software gets installed because someone didn't read and just clicked "accept" or didn't read and left the checkmark box checked saying "OK INSTALL IT", etc... Slow down, pay attention to where you are downloading from and read what you are installing. Don't get click happy.

Does that have a cable and theb a sensor in the dash? If that's the case it probably isn't the sensor but the adapter on the transmission that runs the cable.