lstevens76

I meant a local fuel injector service shop. We have one where I live and that's it. The rest are just general shops, not injector specialty shops.

Logged into Autozone and this is what I found: Make alignment and/or arrow marks on the timing belt in relation to the sprockets as indicated in the accompanying illustration. Z1: 46.8 tooth length Z2: 43.7 tooth length

http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2010_Forester25L-4ATX/__6022811/CAMSHAFT--TIMING-BELT-TIMING-BELT-09MY-10MY/S12-013-02.html Well Subaru seems to disagree...................

A quick search of car-part.com came up with: 1990 Fuel Distributor(& Misc. Inj.) Subaru Legacy RIGHT RAIL W/ 2 INJECTORS AUTO TRAN A 7C0444 $20 All Star Auto Parts USA-MN(Princeton) E-mail 1-763-631-9104 I can pull a full set at my local pick-a-part (if they have them) for $24 ($6/each) so the road trip may be worth it if they are cheap enough. You could also send them in, as I noted above, and spend a lot less than even a rebuilt one cost that you quoted. Another option would be to see if there is a local shop that does fuel injector service.

First, it's an EJ22E not an EJ25 ('96 OBS). Haven't tried that yet. Per torque while driving the vacuum fluctuates (as it should with acceleration) from 5 to 25 inHG. It doesn't fluctuate at an idle and holds pretty much around 23 inHG per the OBD system. The Irridiums were price. They were only a few dollars more than the NGK Coppers and cheaper than the lasers on Amazon when I purchased them. It does run well and has good power. I kept thinking it might be something like that but every post I read about it people were saying ignore it and it doesn't cause problems (that wasn't my intention though). It also makes a lot of sense that the idle seems to variate by temperature (which was baffling me and didn't make sense so I didn't post it).

I see them now. I was on my phone and the picture just wasn't big enough to see them. lol I would do a tooth count as others have recommended. If the tooth count is right then just line up the cams/crank and try it.

I meant the directional arrows for which way the belt turns. I see the timing marks, but don't see directioball arrows. Try turning the belt around.

Ken's Subaru. Honest and reputable. BK Industries same as above. Idsubaruclub.Com for the local sub club.

Ok, so if you've read my build thread you know I replaced every gasket/o-ring on the block recently (just over 500 miles ago) along with head gaskets, heads were milled, new valve stem seals, cam seals, timing components, water pump, radiator, etc.... I just finished my first "full" tank of gas so I could get a read on the mileage and I'm at 18/19. Considering over 1/2 of my driving is 13 mile trips that are over 70% interstate I am fairly certain I should be getting at least 23/24. I'm fairly certain this issue is related to another problem I'm having that isn't setting off a CEL Code. I have odd idle variations. It doesn't "fluctuate" but will the idle speed will change, then remain there for a drive or two, then change again. Example: One trip the idle will be at 750 and remain there whether the AC is on or off. Another trip it might be at 950 w/ the AC on but 750 with it off. Next trip it might be at 750 w/ the AC on and then 600/650 with the AC Off. The only code in the system is a P0441 (Purge Flow Incorrect) which I believe is related to a failing purge solenoid (I previously had a P0443 before all the engine work and was hoping it was vacuum lines which were replaced). I did not clean the IACV, which is on my list to do this week or weekend. What else could be causing this fluctuation? To note: New Gaskets/reseal (as mentioned above) New Plug Wires (NGK) New Spark Plugs (NGK Irridium) New PCV (about 500 miles or less before the engine pull, but I have a new one as well) New Radiator New Air Filter New Fuel Filter New Timing Components, Belt, Idlers, Tensioner, and Water Pump Most vacuum lines replaced (a few left I could replace) New Separator plate New PCV Hose and T from the Block. The 0441 was transpiring prior to all this work and the 0443 was prior to the work and has not reoccurred yet. The AC Radiator fan is not currently plugged in, I do have a replacement for it. I do have an issue w/ the AC not working at an idle which I believe is related to this fan, but I don't see that causing a problem with the idle itself (I could be wrong and I have a fan I intend to put in shortly). Temperature gauge sittings perfect (doesn't fluctuate) I am leaking no fluids Running Castrol Edge Synthetic w/ a Bosch Filter and no leaks. Start throwing ideas please.

Android tablet or smartphone with Bluetooth and a $20 Bluetooth code reader using the torque app. Or go pick up a cheap code reader from you local auto parts store. Connector should be under the dash to the left of the steering column

Try flipping the belt around. If it's an aftermarket without directional arrows you could have it reversed.

New can be expensive but you could also try used ones from a local pick-a-part or try http://www.witchhunter.com/ to have them serviced and cleaned.

No matter what plugs you buy, gap them. I put these in my OBS: 4 New NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs BKR6EIX-11 # 3764. These are the higher end plug and they work great, but not a single one of them was gapped right for the car. They were all over-gapped.

Well tach should be off the crank sensor, but if it wasn't working the car shouldn't be running. Have you checked for any codes? I don't mean the check engine light, I mean actually checking for codes. The speedo as well in this scenario as it should be setting off a code if its not actually working. If you have no codes than you have narrowed it down to a dash problem or a communication to the dash.

I would check fuses and recheck all your grounds. It sounds kind of like a ground is lose/missing. Have you verified all your lights, stereo, etc... work?

It should be about a 3 hour job, so base on the hour price at the shop (usually around $80 for a good independent one). You should also do the water pump and all idlers while in there. For parts I went with the evergreen kit on Amazon which usually runs around $200 w/ an Aisin Water Pump runs around $200. Add a gallon of non-premix coolant at $20/$25 and a new thermostat for around $20. All in all you should be able to get it done for around $500 including parts and labor.

Please show me proof of this statement. I can tell the difference physically between theach cheap parts and Moog Problem Solver parts. Plus I can buy boots for the moog ball joints where I can get proper fitting boots for most cheap ones. If you can back up that statement do so as I would be interested to read up on this. Personally I doubt you can.

Interesting that people are saying PZEV is a California market thing, but the dealer here is selling them (in Idaho).

Do you know for sure which EJ22 is in your car? (Phase 1 or Phase 2)? If not what's the manufacturer date? Ticking is rarely a need to replace the valves. Most likely culprits are either HLAs (if Phase 1) or valve adjustment (if phase 2). Although the valve adjustment would be fixed by replacing the valves since you would have to adjust them, it would be a waste of money IMO.

Those green connectors are "NOT" for flashing the ECU, they are "test mode connectors".

Well per rockauto it seems a '99 OBW and a '99 Forester w/ 2.5L H4 engines take different timing belts. Gates TB for a '99 Forester will fit: SAAB 9-2X 2005 SUBARU FORESTER (1999 - 2010) SUBARU IMPREZA (1999 - 2005) SUBARU IMPREZA 2.5I (2006 - 2011) SUBARU IMPREZA OUTBACK SPORT (2006 - 2011) SUBARU IMPREZA SPORT (2008 - 2011) SUBARU LEGACY (1999 - 2012) SUBARU OUTBACK (2000 - 2012) Please refer to catalog for application details. It could be an older EJ25D belt that you got which would be different.

First after some research I found this article for you: http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/engine/p1507.pdf You also need to understand that the knock sensor and O2 sensor failures can cause the car to run rich or lean. The O2 sensor detects how the car is running based on the exhaust so the computer can adjust correctly. If it isn't reporting correctly the computer can't make the appropriate adjustments. The knock sensor picks up all kinds of spark knock, including ones you can't hear. Using what it detects the computer can adjust fuel/timing to correct the problem. So your dealing with multiple issues here for parts that are relatively inexpensive. Knock Sensor = under $50 O2 Sensor = under $80 (local but would be much cheaper online) Fix both of these and read the endwrench article as well.

Sorry, but wrong. An oil leak at the rear of the engine is going to spread oil all over and onto the clutch. I've had it happen before and in any vehicle the possibility is there. I'm not saying that is the problem, just disagreeing with the comment.

And to update this thread, about 140 miles now and I sat in a line for 2 hours yesterday (about a 1 mile line) w/ the AC on Max and the temp gauge never moved, not even an mm.

Well you can see what the block looked like in the pictures. The gaskets were nasty, but I still had circulation after using it. I don't believe it clogged anything, but I followed the directions exactly.