[PCV valve replacement]

Hey Warp---

I'm sure the silicone would hold up as it does for spark plug wires. But I wonder if it would create the problem for the O2 sensor that silicone sealants do?:-\

[Emissions Idle Failure-Help]

Hey Sub----Smells of gas can eminate from almost anywhere. Try bringing the car to a quick stop at your house and then follow your nose.

If the codes came from a properly executed D-mode check then I'd consider the components as failing and plan for their future replacement. Though I'd run D-mode again after the starting problem is solved before replacing anything.

For review:

1. After engine's all warmed up, turn it off.

2. Connect D-mode connectors (green).

3. Start engine and note trouble codes on LED of ECU. There should be

none if codes were cleared.

4. Drive car for approximately 1 minute with engine RPMs around 2000.

5. Then check LED for stored trouble codes.

6. Turn off engine. Disconnect connectors.

roy

[Emissions Idle Failure-Help]

Hey Sub---That is great news!

I'd bet you can even do a D-mode check now (the greens connected).

I think Glen would agree that the simplest problem can present the most perplexing picture. Now we've become the "more knowledgeable" guys I mentioned in a previous post.

[Emissions Idle Failure-Help]

I think the wiring from the MAF goes directly to the ECU but I'm not sure. Spend the parts money on a good service manual for the car. This will save you more money and time in the long run.

Hey Sub----The right manual sure beats trying to adapt similar info.

If the wire colors do match at the ECU connector end and continuity is good then $75. should solve alot of problems.

Congrats on your son's football victory.

[Emissions Idle Failure-Help]

No voltage on any of the 3 pins and wires going to the MAF (Motor running) Connector unplugged when measurements taken.

Hey Sub---If there aren't any harness continuity issues then you definitely have ECU failure. The voltages readings should be as follows:

[Emissions Idle Failure-Help]

Ugh! Cleaning the MAF didn't help. After codes cleared, with 2 white wires connected under the hood, started car and immediately code 23 (MAF Sensor or circuit) started flashing. About 90 secs later code 35 (purge cannister) came up! Didn't take it for a drive-going to bed.

Hey Sub----With all the connectors cleaned up and presuming the ECU isn't failing then I'd say you have component failure. I'd live test the MAF as Glen suggested or change it for a known working unit.

[Emissions Idle Failure-Help]

New Computer codes after 50 mile drive 23,34,35. Codes read with engine off.

Hey Sub----Seems to indicate a corrosion problem but there may be a component failure also. I'd clean the three connectors of the ECU, the two large cylindrical connectors located behind the battery, and the MAF as previously suggested. Disconnect battery to clear the codes then give vehicle a two minute run from cold, shut off and recheck stored codes. roy:)

[Emissions Idle Failure-Help]

Hey Sub----Good to hear from you.

 

Where we left off on this car was my suspicion of a failing ECU causing lots of codes and an inability to run in test mode. But at this point, if the plugs and wires are good, I'd also consider corrosion in the sensor/actuator/ECU system. Try cleaning the connector to the MAF to see if that code doesn't reset after battery disconnect for 2 minutes.

Without test mode codes, it'll take someone with more knowledge than I to zero in on an exact cause for the emission failure.

roy:)

[Loyale lacks power and chugs]

I wouldn't recommend using a air gauge to look at fuel pressures with. That may be dangerous to have gasoline in side the gauge that is not designed to measure fluid pressures.

Good point Glen. Any gauge with plastic as part of it's plumbing might not be safe to use with gasoline.

[Loyale lacks power and chugs]

Yea, i'm trying to figure out whether i can hook up my tire guage with some hosing and stuff... it guages between 10lbs and 50lbs, which is all i need anyway, right?

Hey Tim---If it has a valve to hold the pressure reading, you'll need to bypass that to get the dynamic readings you want.

roy

[Loyale lacks power and chugs]

Hey Tim---I'd hold off on buying a gauge. By Saturday you may hear of an auto parts that loans them out, a friend who'll lend it to you, or find a pressure gauge off an air tank, water tank, or compression tester that you could hook up.

roy

[Loyale lacks power and chugs]

Next... will i be able to visually inspect the timing belts to see if they have slipped? but, since this car's last known replacement for belts was six years ago, i may as well just replace them.

Not readily. You can remove the 2 black inspection plugs off the timing belt covers on the front of the engine to get an idea if the belt teeth are worn or the belt is loose. Determine slippage, total condition, and replace after the more likely causes are eliminated.

Lastly... i'm surprised no one suspects this to be a catalytic problem or clogged exhaust..

This is a rare cause. Hope we don't get that far.

Thanks a lot Glen and Roy!!

You're welcome, Tim.

[Loyale lacks power and chugs]

Alright, next... the fuel pump... is it located under the passanger seat or above a rear wheel well... i've heard different answers for this model car.

But to test it first, sounds like i need to get a pressure guage, a tee, and some tubing. I will perform both tests, but can i place it just after the fuel filter?... i know where that is, but not the "metal damper next to the throttle body."

Fuel pump is forward of right rear wheel. The metal damper should be the only object in the fuel line between the filter and the throttle body. But you can connect in after the filter also.:cool:

[Loyale lacks power and chugs]

Of course, i have no real idea what or where to spray, or whether i run a risk of setting my engine afire, but... the engine didn't change idle, so i guess that suggests no leaks...

I usually spray mine cold though the exhaust pipe will heat up quite quik.

What parts should i be spraying?

Spray around the base of the intake manifold pipes where they connect to the heads. Spray around the top of the intake manifold pipes where they join the throttle body.

A visual inspection shows what look like cracks in the large rubber rectangle leading into the throttle body (what is that large rubber duct leading from the air filter called anyway?). But i can't tell if the "cracks" go all the way through or are leaking. Again, spraying carb cleaner while idling showed nothing.

Spraying this intake duct won't reveal much. Small leaks here wouldn't cause major symptoms.

[Loyale lacks power and chugs]

Since he stated that changing the timing made a big improvement I am thinking, as you probably are also, that a belt has slipped and by changing the timing it compensated for it some but the problem is still there.

Now I understand why a slipped belt on the left causes those symtoms.

I would also want to do a driving test on the fuel pump to see how it reacts under load while the problem is happening. The pump may work fine without any real load on it.

I didn't think an EA82 ECM could see this as a problem but if so: fuel pump failing-->lean A/F ratio-->consistent low O2 sensor voltages-->CEL.

Hey Tim---As Glen notes, a static fuel pressure test could be misleading. So:

Connect a tee in the fuel line. I'd put it in place of the metal damper next to the throttle body for simplicity. Run a fuel hose from the tee up along the hood hinge to a spot visible from inside the car. Connect the gauge there and after getting a reading from step #2, take her for a spin.:cool:

[Loyale lacks power and chugs]

Did you check the intake manifold gaskets for a leak yet?

 

I am also thinking that the timing belts may not be quite right. You stated that adjusting the timing really helped but it didn't fix it entirely. One of the belts may be off the mark.

 

Another possibility is the fuel pump may need to be changed.

Hey Glen---You took the words right off my fingertips! Except I might go leaks, then pump, then belts. This is an interesting car as any we've worked on.

 

Hey Tim----Too bad the USMB Repair Manual is still down. But I'll give you a quick guide on fuel pump testing.

1.Connect a pressure gauge into the fuel line. After the fuel filter is a convenient spot. You might be able to borrow one from an auto supply.

2.Turn ignition key to on. Pressure should rise rapidly to 36-50 lbs.

3. Turn key off. Relieve pressure and disconnect gauge.

 

"-a friend adjusted the fuel/air mixture (i think... i don't know how to do that)" I'd like to know how he did that too. roy

[Loyale lacks power and chugs]

(at one point this cause the CEL to come on for maybe thirty seconds). so, now it drives reasonably well; but i think the old loyale has more horsepower than she's giving. but i'm happier.

thanks all for your help.

Hey New...fan---You're welcome. It would be interesting to know what code that CEL stored. If you want to get that "more horsepower", just post back on this thread and we'll go to work on her.

[Loyale lacks power and chugs]

Thanks all,

If the problem were a hay-wire ECM, how would I get a replacement?

Here's a link to OEM ECMs:https://www.parts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213799&chapter=AML732&appSectionid=3&groupid=10046&subgroupid=60471&make=32&model=Loyale&year=1994&catalogid=1

Don't think you want to go there. Better to try the local junk yard. But you're not ready to go there yet.

[Loyale lacks power and chugs]

Hey New..fan---I'm wondering if that "chirping" isn't the sound of a bad timing belt. Time for the stethescope. If you don't have one, a heavy metal rod placed behind the ear against the scalp and the other end placed carefully at various non-moving spots on the engine will usually locate the source of drivetrain noises. It will sound much louder over the source.

[Loyale lacks power and chugs]

Hey New...fan---Codes 34 or 35 wouldn't usually produce such severe symptoms. After checking for vacuum leaks, I'd double check ignition timing and then take a look at the condition of the timing belts. Does she run fine when the engines cold but act up after a few minutes of warming up?:-\

[Knock Sensor replacement]

Thank you for the information. After I posted the original question, I did replace the sensor and the engine check light is now off. I did have to remove the air cleaner components. Getting the bolt down through the sensor was a bit tricky with all the other stuff in the way. In all about a half hours work.

Cheers!

Hey Peter----Good to see this update. So many threads just die. The good ones keep coming back to life.

[Loyale lacks power and chugs]

Thanks for responses.

Well, i'm having two problems so far:

1) the CEL lamp has been removed by the mechanic. A minor hassle since i'm finding it a pain to access the back of the CEL panel to replace the bulb.

2) i can't tell whether i need to plug or unplug a set of connectors "under the steering column near/left the ECM" in order to diagnose and clear error codes. One source says nothing about them, just the white and green set under the hood near the fuel filter. Another source says a set of connectors below the instrument panel near ECM is to be connected/disconnected.

Which is correct?

Thanks

Hey New..fan---I thought my PM was clear---there aren't any diagnostic connectors for your Loyale below the instrument panel, just under the hood.

The link I gave is generic for all Soobs and technically correct for most. There are a few variations like the Loyale.

Even without the CEL you should be able to check codes on the ECM's O2 monitor light and clear all codes if there aren't any current problems.

[Loyale lacks power and chugs]

Hey New..fan---Welcome a"board".

 

I think you need to diagnose that check engine light yourself.

You can get helpful info here:http://www.importautoparts.com/a_subaru.html

When that whirring sound changes to a screaching sound then it'll be time to change the throwout bearing.

Do come back and post on this thread on how you make out.

[My First Subaru]

Hey Charles---Search the Ultimate Subaru Marketplace for that Auxiliary Air Valve. You might get lucky. You might have a disconnected crankcase ventilation hose allowing crankcase vapors to drift into the air intake.

[My First Subaru]

Hey Miles---Thanks for that good thread of advice on threads.