monkbonk

I contacted the person in twinfalls's craigslist ad on the 28th. He said it would be a few weeks before he could get back to me. I went ahead and emailed the Spokane Brat owner too. I hope I get a reply. I think I overreacted, and responded too quick to iluvdrt (when I was still upset).

If he contacted you first and made an offer, then you shouldn't have offered or replied to my wanted ad second. "Yeah, This was a wierd sale, like a silent auction. No one posted, but I had a lot of messages and texts. "

Please make your own classified ad instead of replying to my wanted post with your flash sales. Better yet since you are taking silent bids, you should list your items on eBay. Thanks

Just got an email from the guy. It was a forum member here. Not cool. Looks like I stand a better chance finding parts in the wild than from this "helpful" community.

Thanks for dangling these taillights in front of me, sending me pictures, leading me into a sale only to let them go to some separate 'ghost' party. I really needed those taillights, and I told you as much. This is a huge let down. If someone on these forums sniped those taillight lenses out from under me, they may have just soured me on this whole community. I don't know if I'm going to be on here much anymore. This forum lacks a member feedback section. I sure as hell would've laid this out there..

Awesome. PM sent

Cap all of them and see what happens. Just about all of mine are capped. What isn't is just left open. The only vacuum line that should remain is the one from the distributor's advance port to the vac port on the carburetor body

Are the fiberglass fenders that are available from Pittsburg, Pennsylvania a poor fit? I tried to search the archives here and found a few mentions of them with conflicting reviews.

I know that a stop-gap measure to keep from having to reindex the torsion bars on a VW Beetle is to buy some air adjustable Gabriel shocks. Being that there isn't much structure on the top shock mount, as you said, might eliminate this option though.

I have been using heavy duty 15w-40 Supertech. I read on bobistheoilguy that it has around 1300ppm of zinc and phosphorus (zddp). Walmart has slowly moved it from the regular oil section towards their diesel oil displays. It says that it can be used in both cars and diesels. Whenever I don't buy the 15w-40, I generally buy whatever is cheapest at 10w-30 and add a couple ounces of lucas break in additive. I have read that this supposedly adds the correct amount of zinc. I am planning on switching to Quaker State Defy in my Buick 430. It's supposed to have the zinc, some seal conditioners and is a partial synthetic.

I am completely new to the Subaru scene, but I can set you up with all the info you seek. I'm taking these forums by storm! The valve cover hoses/air cleaner system: Weber throttle spring: The anti-diesel solenoid isn't used on the Weber. Make sure that your initial idle speed isn't too high and that your idle mixture is spot on to avoid dieseling. On my EA71 with Weber, the previous owner plugged the three-nipple vacuum switch/solenoid and every other vac port. The EGR is unhooked also. The only vacuum hose being used is the one for the vacuum advance for the distributor. Not saying that this particular setup is correct, but my Subaru runs pretty spot great with all those vacs eliminated. EDiT: I think I read somewhere on here that the vacuum line (the one that comes from beside the fuel line) is a vent for the fuel tank? I recall someone saying that it's okay to leave it open, and to put a filter on it to keep it from getting clogged with debris. The old wires from the Hitachi are eliminated. The only wire you'd need for the Weber is a switched positive for the choke. The PO of my car didn't have the choke hooked up, and it runs pretty decent cold. Something is askew with my linkage, as I can only get like a 1/4 of a choke with the air plates. There's a stop on the brass linkage that prevents mine from going any further. So with that, I figured I would leave the choke plates wide open so as to not affect performance once at operating temp. If you were to run a choke, look for an electric solenoid as a power source to splice into. They are usually powered with the ignition switch. The PO is running my fuel pump off of such a wire. EDiT: And that big foil looking hose coming from beneath your engine (runs from your exhaust, your second picture post) is the preheat to your carburetor. You likely do not need it. If you were to use it, you would have to make a custom filter box for your new Weber. The easiest solution would be to take the new Weber lower filter plate and slap it on your old filter housing. Trace the new weber opening onto your old air cleaner, cut it out and put it on your Weber. Then you can hook all your old hoses back in their original locations.

I'm in need of a hood latch, passenger side view mirror and carpet (any color) for my 78 Brat. Located in Odenville, AL zipcode 35120 Could also use the following parts, although not a priority: tailgate spare rim topper mounting hardware Topper back window/door Thanks

I will definitely be keeping it stock. I love the color scheme as well. I am debating whether or not to buy new fenders or keep the crusty ones. I put some Pentrol on there to mitigate the rust (linseed oil). That will at least keep it from oxidizing for a short while.

Awesome brat and nice photography.

I acquired a 1978 Subaru Brat today. It has a low mileage EA71 mated to the original 4 speed manual trans. I'm going to be looking into replacing the fenders with some fiberglass aftermarket copies and will potentially swap out my tailgate later on. The fuel tank is currently plugged with trash, and it had some awfully complex aftermarket thermo-control switch in place controlling an electric fan - mounted to the front of the radiator. I've got a relatively new Weber, courtesy of the previous owner. The choke isn't hooked up however, so I will need to find a switched 12v. Pictures, for right now: http://savannah.craigslist.org/cto/4964124493.html

If no one else steps up, I could use the rear and attaching hardware.