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About musubk

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Fairbanks Alaska
  • Vehicles
    86 Brat, 14 Outback

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  1. I don't really have any good engine bay pics yet, I still have a few hoses left over from the Weber swap that I need to take care of, and clean everything in there up, then I'll get some good shots of it. It's a lot easier to cold start now with the MSD installed. I used to have to crank it for 10 seconds, now it turns over almost instantly. I'm not sure how much it really helped beyond that. I had issues with misfiring under load and I think the MSD helped a little there, but the Weber made the biggest difference there. Cleaning and rebuilding the stock carb probably would have helped a lot too, but I decided to just go for the Weber.
  2. I did paint it myself, my first time painting a car. I was expecting it to be not so good but it came out pretty nice.
  3. I hope nobody minds if I start posting a lot in this thread now Wagon at Murphy Dome by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr Wagon at Murphy Dome by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr Wagon at Murphy Dome by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr
  4. In the past three months my 1977 wagon has come a long way. Look three posts up in this thread to see where I started! It's undergone some cutting and filling of rust holes, a new paint job, coaxing the old engine back into running shape, and it's registered and street legal for the first time since 1984. I've been daily driving it for the last week and it's great. This weekend I installed a Weber and an MSD ignition. I'm still trying to track down the cause of a part-throttle miss/stumble and occasional backfire; I'm hoping that will be solved once I've tracked down all the vacuum leaks and get a new exhaust built, the current exhaust is rusted through and falling apart in many places. And I've got a few boxes with new brake parts ready to go on when I have the time, plus I still have some aftermarket wheels in the plans. First time on the road by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr First time on the road by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr First time on the road by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr First time on the road by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr
  5. I have a 1977 I'm trying to put back on the road after years of neglect. I have it running and driving but it needs brakes. I've read a little bit about using the calipers and vented rotors from a 1983+ car. Since I'm going to be replacing rotors and calipers anyway and those have better availability, this seems like what I want to do. Can anyone confirm what I need for this conversion? I've read just calipers/rotors on a 'stage 2' first gen but the info seems unclear on 'stage 1'. I think my 1977 with dual headlights is a stage 1, right? I read something about swapping on EA81 knuckles to make the calipers work. Has anyone here done that?
  6. el_freddo is exactly right, it's mostly accomplished via using the lift blocks as adapters. I did it because EA82 replacement parts are a bit easier to find, and the wider stance of the EA82 front end with the strut tops in the narrower EA81 strut towers is effectively like running a camber plate and gives me a couple of degrees of negative camber in the front. Not 'stance' style but just enough to be able to see it. I like it a lot more than the normal positive camber these old Subarus seem to have. Details on how the front end fit together are in these two videos:
  7. Awesome, that's exactly what I was looking for! Now I can start ordering parts.
  8. Hi folks. I think I want to lower my 1977 4WD wagon. In the rear I can get where I want with just the torsion bar reclocking. I've been reading and I found this post, that car is roughly how low I'd like to be, so I think I'm going to follow that example and use EA82 struts with cut springs, or possibly some cheap adjustable coilover sleeves. I think I can use FWD struts instead of 4WD struts to lose a little height before I even begin cutting the springs, is that right? My other question is, what kind of wheel width and offset can I get away with, on a car that low? I'm thinking of a 6 lug conversion with some 15x6" trailer wheels. Has anyone done aftermarket wheels on a lowered car, and can give some idea of what will fit?
  9. My new 77 wagon 1977 Subaru Wagon by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr
  10. Okay, that's good to know about the ECU flashes. I was worried that I had wired something up really wrong. I thought about fuel pump and fuel filter, but I wasn't sure if that could cause the off/on nature of the problem. I'll swap in a new filter anyway, they're cheap enough and it couldn't hurt. I guess I'm kind of dancing around the fuel pump because it's a nice Walbro inline pump and I don't want it to be going bad, lol. But if the filter doesn't fix it I'll get a fuel pressure gauge and see what kind of pressures I'm getting. Thanks for the ideas.
  11. Well I decided to bring the wagon home! Now to see what it takes to get it back on the road. Also I now realize there's another forum for older-than-1980 Subarus. Sorry for posting in the wrong one, I'll move future posts on this car into there.
  12. Okay here is my current theory. One of the sensors is bad - maybe the throttle position, maybe another. I'm leaning towards the TPS because of the resistances I just measured plus the fact that the car acts fine as long as I stay off the throttle. When you first start the car it runs in (I think...) a preset fuel map until it warms up. It's fine in that mode, and that's why the problem goes away for a bit if I shut the engine off and restart. Once it warms up enough, it switches over to a more dynamic 'learning' mode where it tries to lean out for better fuel economy, but that's where it starts screwing up because it's basing the 'learning' off bad data from one of the sensors. Does this make sense?
  13. testing the resistance on my throttle position sensor by the procedure detailed here: I find that between pin 2 and 3 I have 9.5kOhm, when this says I should have 12kOhm, and between pin 2 and 4 it varies from 0.1kOhm to 9.8kOhm where this page says it should vary from 1kOhm to 4.3kOhm. It does vary smoothly with throttle position, though. Am I doing something wrong with the testing or is this the problem?
  14. Subarus on the tundra by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr
  15. I''m having trouble with my EJ22 swapped BRAT that I can't seem to figure out. The engine is from either a 1990 or 1991 FWD automatic Legacy. It has ran great for a couple of years, but when I brought it out of winter storage this year it had this new problem. Upon first starting it for the day, it will drive normally for anywhere from 10-30 minutes, then suddenly it will start 'stumbling' heavily if I give it any more than around 1/4 throttle. It happens out of the blue, and feels like it's running out of gas or pulling a bunch of timing or something. It can barely make enough power to run 10mph when it's happening. If I stop and put it in neutral, if I put the gas pedal to the floor it revs to around 3000rpm then bucks and starts dying, drops to 1000 rpm then seems to bounce off a 'floor' there. The moment I let off the throttle it returns to a normal smooth idle. If I turn the car off and back on, the problem is gone, but will come back in a few minutes of driving. I first thought the MAF sensor might be going bad, but I tried a different MAF and it hasn't solved the problem. The car has never has a check engine light hooked up, but I went and jumped an LED bulb off the proper ECU pin to see if it would give me a code. With the black 'read connector' connected, ignition on, engine off, the light just flashes seemingly forever, about one flash a second, always the 'short' blink that's supposed to be the 'ones' position in a trouble code. I counted more than 100 flashes with no changes in length or frequency before I gave up. I'm kind of running out of ideas. Does anyone have a suggestion for what I should check?