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musubk

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About musubk

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Fairbanks Alaska
  • Vehicles
    86 Brat, 14 Outback
  1. Awesome, that's exactly what I was looking for! Now I can start ordering parts.
  2. Hi folks. I think I want to lower my 1977 4WD wagon. In the rear I can get where I want with just the torsion bar reclocking. I've been reading and I found this post, that car is roughly how low I'd like to be, so I think I'm going to follow that example and use EA82 struts with cut springs, or possibly some cheap adjustable coilover sleeves. I think I can use FWD struts instead of 4WD struts to lose a little height before I even begin cutting the springs, is that right? My other question is, what kind of wheel width and offset can I get away with, on a car that low? I'm thinking of a 6 lug conversion with some 15x6" trailer wheels. Has anyone done aftermarket wheels on a lowered car, and can give some idea of what will fit?
  3. My new 77 wagon 1977 Subaru Wagon by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr
  4. Okay, that's good to know about the ECU flashes. I was worried that I had wired something up really wrong. I thought about fuel pump and fuel filter, but I wasn't sure if that could cause the off/on nature of the problem. I'll swap in a new filter anyway, they're cheap enough and it couldn't hurt. I guess I'm kind of dancing around the fuel pump because it's a nice Walbro inline pump and I don't want it to be going bad, lol. But if the filter doesn't fix it I'll get a fuel pressure gauge and see what kind of pressures I'm getting. Thanks for the ideas.
  5. Well I decided to bring the wagon home! Now to see what it takes to get it back on the road. Also I now realize there's another forum for older-than-1980 Subarus. Sorry for posting in the wrong one, I'll move future posts on this car into there.
  6. Okay here is my current theory. One of the sensors is bad - maybe the throttle position, maybe another. I'm leaning towards the TPS because of the resistances I just measured plus the fact that the car acts fine as long as I stay off the throttle. When you first start the car it runs in (I think...) a preset fuel map until it warms up. It's fine in that mode, and that's why the problem goes away for a bit if I shut the engine off and restart. Once it warms up enough, it switches over to a more dynamic 'learning' mode where it tries to lean out for better fuel economy, but that's where it starts screwing up because it's basing the 'learning' off bad data from one of the sensors. Does this make sense?
  7. testing the resistance on my throttle position sensor by the procedure detailed here: I find that between pin 2 and 3 I have 9.5kOhm, when this says I should have 12kOhm, and between pin 2 and 4 it varies from 0.1kOhm to 9.8kOhm where this page says it should vary from 1kOhm to 4.3kOhm. It does vary smoothly with throttle position, though. Am I doing something wrong with the testing or is this the problem?
  8. Subarus on the tundra by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr
  9. I''m having trouble with my EJ22 swapped BRAT that I can't seem to figure out. The engine is from either a 1990 or 1991 FWD automatic Legacy. It has ran great for a couple of years, but when I brought it out of winter storage this year it had this new problem. Upon first starting it for the day, it will drive normally for anywhere from 10-30 minutes, then suddenly it will start 'stumbling' heavily if I give it any more than around 1/4 throttle. It happens out of the blue, and feels like it's running out of gas or pulling a bunch of timing or something. It can barely make enough power to run 10mph when it's happening. If I stop and put it in neutral, if I put the gas pedal to the floor it revs to around 3000rpm then bucks and starts dying, drops to 1000 rpm then seems to bounce off a 'floor' there. The moment I let off the throttle it returns to a normal smooth idle. If I turn the car off and back on, the problem is gone, but will come back in a few minutes of driving. I first thought the MAF sensor might be going bad, but I tried a different MAF and it hasn't solved the problem. The car has never has a check engine light hooked up, but I went and jumped an LED bulb off the proper ECU pin to see if it would give me a code. With the black 'read connector' connected, ignition on, engine off, the light just flashes seemingly forever, about one flash a second, always the 'short' blink that's supposed to be the 'ones' position in a trouble code. I counted more than 100 flashes with no changes in length or frequency before I gave up. I'm kind of running out of ideas. Does anyone have a suggestion for what I should check?
  10. Okay cool, since the EA81 swap is a little more involved than I thought, I'll start with trying to bring the EA71 around. Going to look at it and make a final decision this evening!
  11. I'll preface this by saying I have an 86 BRAT with an EJ22 swap, 5 speed D/R, and the crossmember and front/rear suspension from an EA82 car. I'm no stranger to older Subarus, but I've never had a 1st gen. I have the opportunity to pick up a 1977 wagon this weekend. It doesn't run but the body is straight, the interior is good, and there's minimal rust, so I think I'm going to go for it. I don't want to do anything crazy like I have with my BRAT, I'd just like to make it a nice clean driver / weekend car. I'm thinking an EA81 with the Weber carb would be a good route for me to go, engine wise. Does that just drop in to this chassis? I still have the original 4 speed from my BRAT, is there any sense in using that instead of the 1977 4-speed? I have all the parts to do a rear disc brake conversion, I was collecting it for my BRAT but I might put it on the wagon instead. Can I do that on the 1st gen car as easily as the 2nd gen, where you basically just unbolt the old hubs and bolt on the new hubs and rotors? I figure I'll do new ball joints, tie rods, and struts/shocks. Is there any simple upgrade I can do here or should I just order basic replacement shocks? Any other common upgrades for the 1st gen that I may want to think about while I have it apart?
  12. Yes, it's the 5 speed trans levers just sticking up through the hole in the floor. It's far enough aft that I had to put a small notch in the hole because the 4wd lever was right against the metal.
  13. I have an 86 BRAT with the 5 speed D/R from an 88 GL, and I'm wondering what those of you with similar swaps did for a shifter boot? Currently I have the original 4 speed rubber boot stretched and zip-tied into place, but it doesn't fit right which leaves a lot of places for air to pass through, and I end up with a whirlwind of dust in my car whenever I drive down a dirt road. I'm looking for simple ideas to seal that hole around the shifter.
  14. I used these fiberglass flares, I got off eBay meant for a Datsun 240z, along with an inch or two of metal trimmed back from the edge of the wheel arches to remove my wheel arch rust and make room for big tires. http://www.flickr.com/photos/musubk/22129087410/ They looked good but the fiberglass was too fragile for me beating up the car offroad, so now I'm using a set of mountain bike tires cut in half and bolted on to make knobby rubber flares. They look kind of weird but they're cheap and tough.
  15. musubk

    The ea81 cv mod thread

    The EA82 outer tie rods, or 'tie rod ends', will thread onto the EA81 inner tie rods, but they still weren't long enough to reach from my EA81 manual rack to the steering knuckle. I ended up cutting the EA81 inner tie rods and welding a sleeve in the middle to lengthen them about an inch. Swapping the EA82 outer+inner tie rods looks like it would be long enough, but the inner won't thread on at all. The EA82 tie rod uses a 'male' tie rod and the EA81 uses a 'female' tie rod. I have documentation of that particular problem I was working with EA82 power steering tie rods and EA81 manual tie rods, just like Uberoo
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