scar13

a higher (negative) number for right front camber should help. Equal from side to side is best. Then they should center the steer wheel. If you still experience a drift or pull after that, cross-rotate the 2 front tires and see if the drift or pull changes. Could be a tire pull. I ignore steering axis inclination because I can't adjust it.

It may be normal. Turning on the A/C on a 4 cyl. you can feel the load it puts on the engine. Can you feel an increase in power output when the a/c cycles off and on? If you know someone with a same model car see if you can compare it to yours.

@sparkyboy-Honda uses the T-stat on the lower hose.

I notice the 2 center plugs in the pic have white porcelain while the 2 outer ones are the proper tan color. the white ones(typically) were running hotter or leaner. Do the t-stat. I'm curious, did you have the heads machined and did you use quality MLS head gaskets?

If you have overheating problems with a ej25d, the hot gasses escaping past the head gaskets are displacing the coolant, the resulting pressure in the cooling system then over powers the spring on the rad cap and you get the boiling over in the overflow reservoir. In the article you linked the author is working with extreme conditions. You have a stock unit which should be adequate for daily driving. On your model, the radiator, thermostat and head gaskets are suspect/questionable. His mods will not help you.

Complain about it at the dealership. Its under warranty. If you aren't satisfied with the dealer's handling of the issue, ask them for Subaru's corporate office's customer satisfaction phone number.

You save money when you don't guess. Get under there with a couple cans of brake clean to clean the area off. Then run it for 5 or 10 minutes and then shut it off and crawl under with a light and find the source of the leak. You can do it yourself or you can pay someone to do it.

you can find replacement u-joints at the ujointstore.com but as earlier mentioned they were not designed to be replaced as the caps are staked into the yoke. you have to carefully use a dremel to grind the stakes down then disassembly is as normal drive shaft. vise and hammer. the replacements come with snap rings to hold them in from inside the yoke but I found I had to grind slightly on the yoke to get them fully seated. and the inside of the yoke is stepped to increase clearance to pivot. so the c-clips have to be installed so that they are holding on the thich part of the yoke. the joints cost me 20 bucks each. but if you are not very mechanically inclined just get a used unit. I only did it because ive been a wrench for over thirty years and when told "no you can't " , decided "i think I can". I could have gotten a used shaft cheaper at the pull it yourself yard.

most brake light switches you just turn counter clock wise 90 degrees and pull out of holder. reverse to install, but to get proper operation, when you install, only push switch in until plunger is depressed then twist clock wise to lock it in. be gentle doing this as the piece it locks into is a plastic part. also; the elec connector has a tab that needs to be depressed before pulling from the switch. if the tab does not depress easily push the connector into the switch then depress tab then pull apart, this removes tension from tab.

bgambino, when you step on the brake and the shift lock solenoid does not click, are your brake lights lighting up or not? If not then I would replace your brake light switch down at the brake pedal. Just a possibility.

Does the clutch on the compressor disengage when its blowing warm or is it still engaged? If it disengages (stops spinning) it is probably being cut off by either too high pressure on the high side pressure switch(to protect the compressor from becoming damaged) or the evaporator temp sensor(this cuts the system off if it gets too cold to prevent the evaporator from freezing up) or the compressor thermal protector opening up because the compressor is getting too hot. First I would get a tech to hang gauges on it to make sure your pressures are good(not too high or low while operating). If the compressor stops running and the pressures were good then I would access the evap. temp probe connector behind the glove box (2 wire connector, black wires that go into the black plastic ac box) while car is still running and ac is in warm blowing state disconnect temp sensor and use jump wire on car harness side of connecter, if a/c starts running then the temp probe (thermistor) is most likely bad. Don't run the system with the jumper on there for a fix as you will freeze the evaporator up.

I have a 98 OBW that's developed a rod knock. I got a ej251 long block at the pull it yourself yard. I could use 95 2.2 heads or the 25D heads. I'm leaning towards using the 2.5 heads as I already have them. I'm not sure which head gasket to use though. There are different part numbers for 251 and 25D. I have heard this combination will raise the Compression. Does anyone know how high? On that same topic what would the compression be elevated to if I used the 95 EJ22 heads? The 251 engine came out of a 2000 model legacy. Thanks in advance for any info.