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and they would be a dealer only item. They are there to help prevent squeaks. On mine I use those, brake anti squeak you spray on, and brake grease to keep them quiet.

or posting the URL but I have a way to get you there. Search on "Stoptech". On thier site look under technical. It will give you a choice of white papers. The one I am reffering to is "The warped brake disc and other myths of the brakeing system." by Carrol Smith. Good for me to review becuse I have been doing the first couple of stops too fast.

refer to the basic design choices Subaru has made. The boxer configuration with OHC means with belt drive means there are a number of places to leak that are not present on some engines. The engine is very smooth and inherently balanced but you pay for it. It has cam seals to leak. They are the only engine I am familiar with that regularly need front seals replaced and rear seals more than most engines. The famous oil pump seal leak is the only time I have ever seen an engine do that.Drive the water pump from the cam belt? Not good. The belt driven cam choice causes you to need tensioners and belts and you have seals that run through the valve cover for the spark plugs that can leak. Some of the past problems I hope are cured on yours. 1 The lousey clutch that chattered. 2 The oil slinger on the rear of the engine made from plastic that causes leaks. 3 The oil pump screws that come loose. 4 Lets not forget the hard to service DOHC phase 1 that blows internal head gasket leaks. Did I forget anything folks?

and send the article to kieth. both failed because I had too many characters. tomorrow perhaps keith can give me his email or someone can coach me how to post the URL. I have it in my favorites at work here. The janitor is making noise behind me so I better go home. will answer zooma tonight at home.

yours has some improvements I have had to add to mine. You will have some problems on most cars. My last Mercedes had several problems and my BMW has had a number of them. The Forester has more requirement for maintence in the engine area, but some things are quite nicely engineered.

I have never seen that on a Subie but I have on other vehicles.I had mine done when I had the major service done so I hope never to see it. How does one diagnose that? Take off the cover and run it with a stethascope or just pull the timing belt and look for play and leakage?

but I just put a post on roadfly asking if someone can find it and post me a link. I am far too old to be as computer savvy as I could be.

but how about drilling a small hole and looking? Just through the first layer of metal? I also think it may weaken the car in a rollover, but waht the heck my other car is a Roadster. (with roll bar).

It was all over the BMW boards a while ago and perhaps I can find it with a search. It seemed quite well written and I felt just like you do about the pads glazing. For zooma squeaks are really not a safety issue on a newer car, they are more like a quality issue. As long as you have plenty of pad material you should be fine.

Unless your dealer is very weak it will be easy to sand or replace the pads and apply anti squeal and grease. I had a local place do my Forester last year and had cold squeal as a result. I just did the brakes over properly a couple thousand miles ago when I gave it new struts. I break my pads in a bit harder than rally Keith. I have been working on the clean fresh pad and rotor and two stops from 80, cool, a couple from 60, and then normal use for a while. I have read that it coats the rotors and have tried it on the last few cars and it works for me so that's my story and I'm sticking to it. I was first taught the same as Keith but I did not always get good results so when I read that article I thought I would have a go. The pads get very hot after the first couple of stops and I actually had them smoke last time.

it dropped.

usually depressing the clutch will change the sound. If it is a belt driven squeak I pull the belt and see if it stops. If it is an idler for the timing belt it could be a bear to find.

I think you should do a bit better too.My forester always seems to turn in around 25 with one rare tank at 17 and another at 30 that I may never duplicate again. Math error or an egg under the pedal that week.

I have heard of a couple of people having it get loose too.

Especially in the conditions in Maine.

it on jackstands. Then I would try turning the wheels manually to see if there was play or a frozen ball joint. Then have a friend try turning the steering wheel while you inspect the action. If you don't find low air in the tires, low power steering fluid, or something rubbing or frozen have a more qualified person help you diagnose it.

after all if it is not right you can bring it back and say try again. I can only judge from my limited 2.5 experience but at a bit over 100,000 it is still using about a pint of oil by the time it is ready to change. I hope to get a minimum of another 50,000 miles out of mine and it sure seems like it is ready to do it. I have done major maintence on it from the 80,000 mark when I got it to where it is now and it is a far better car now than when I bought it.

the valve. You can usually see that there is a lot of wear on the cam and follower and this is often inconsistant. There are often cam lift specs in the manual and I have used these and a steel ruler to see if I am still running in specs. When you have a really flat one the valve hardly lifts at all.Hydraulic lifters are a bit tougher to measure as they take up the play a bit. When you put in a new cam and good followers in an engine that had a badly worn cam you think you now have a rocket.The wear is so subtle over a long period that you don't realize how much power you have lost.

But I hope this works for you. I also wonder how much of this is valve noise by now. Subarus must have good cams, but I have found several engines that the cams wore out at 150,000 or so enough to really effect performance. In my last Mercedes cam and lifter wear was common and I think I had three cams in it in the 17 years I had it. I have seen a lot of cam wear on V8 Chevys and Fords too. Followers and lifters are often pretty worn at about this time. I will pop the vlave covers off my 2.5 around then and see waht I need to do. An OHC engine is so easy to inspect compared to a cam in block.

I think I will have them add it to mine on the next oil change. I really don't expect it to hurt anything as long as it stays suspended in the coolant.

here and it specifies 1999 to 2002 model year Subaru vehicles with 2.5 engine. Your car is still so new they have not had many complaints yet and I bet they think the problem is cured on yours. Mine went about 85,000 miles before it showed up and might not have if I had not looked for it.

extended warranty is the ticket. The nice thing about a phase 2 is that if they do fail it is only an external leak. Mine just weeped and I now have the latest revision of head gasket and crossed fingers. The other good thing was Subaru paid for my head gasket job when I was out of warranty. I know a lot of the phase 1 folks did not have that luck.

industry at the big flee markets.I have had good luck finding a match there for a FWD. Next I will be looking for three vintage 1998 brand new Michellins I think. I hope they still make that model.

I don't pay much attention to new cars till I am ready for one. I am not that impressed with the 2.5 even though I own one. I am just not sure they have really cured the head gasket problem, but don't listen to me, check with a few others.

I would get the H6. The only reason I have a 2.5 is that the Forester is perfect for me and the 2.5 was the only engine I could get with it in the US and this is where I use this car. I was looking at a 98 with the phase 1 and folks here reccomended the phase 2. At this point most folks here know I love the early 2.2s and every day that friends drive H6s with no problems I like them more. The only complaint I have heard about the H6 is that they take premium fuel, but they seem to get better mileage than I do with my 2.5.