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and tranny mounts. I would also look at the linkage before pulling the transmission. At least get another opinion from a Subaru specialist. The mechanic could very easily be correct.

hold out too. It is slightly harder to drive with your fingers crossed.

checked the motor mounts. The driveshaft should be two piece. Have you ever seperated it? It really has to be aligned correctly or will do just waht you describe.

TPS might also be a good bet if there is nothing mechanical like a lost spring or stuck linkage.

electornic circuit boards are often washed at the end before installation. I was at a factory and watched them. This made me bold enough to try to save my wife's light meter when she actually washed it in the clothes washer. I washed it out with soap free water and dried it carefully, that was several years ago and it still works.

This vent thing is a new one on me. Trust Subaru to engineer in some weirdness.

and phase 2. I have only seen them once but the phase 1 had several layers and phase 2 may have been a single layer if I recall correctly. Emily???

I wonder if you got magic gasket version four?

are made of Kryptonite. I got em and I ain't worried and you shouldn't either.

to run an extension tube up off it to a catch can like race cars do sometimes. You could monitor how much comes out from the catch can and if it went up a ways it just might cure it. I have seen some odd things with diffs in the winter. When the oil gets thick it can pump in strange ways. I had a VW years ago in Maine that on the coldest days would actually drive in neutral. I had fitted it with an old hotplate under the crankcase to get it to start and once I got it going it would first stall the engine several times and then go driving down my drive way when it warmed enough to let up the clutch. I cured that by very light oil in the tranny. I still don't miss the winter that much here in SF.

on the original head gaskets. If I had not looked for a leak it was so slight I might not have found it. Odds are the stop leak would have fixed it. Now with the post 03 gaskets in mine I expect to be good for another 100,000 miles. Frankly I doubt that I'll have the car that long so this is the last of my worries. When they test a car they abuse it as much as they can in a short time. Desert testing is common and most companies take them up north and Freeze them to see if they start in the cold. A whole lot of engine testing happens on a dyno and unfortunately you don't get the real world conditions there. After they did the complete redesign to fix the phase one problems it was a slap in the face for Subaru engineers to have the coating failure on the phase twos. I hope nobody committed Hari Kari.

them. I would wait till spring and put in new seals. It might be good to monitor the level frequently until you know how much it uses. I just sold my Jeep and I had found a leaking diff ten years ago. I always meant to put in seals but never did. It used one pint a year in my use and I told the new owner to watch the level or change the seals.

residual pressure and dragging. Jack the car up and rotate the wheel, if it is free it ain't dragging. If it is dragging pop the bleeder. the should be zero pressure with no brake application. If you have residual pressure it can act like you are applying the brake and squirt fluid out. Be sure to be ready to close the bleeder quickly so you don't have to rebleed. I suspect you just have too small a brake for the size of the car. If it was mine I would look for an after market up grade. If my personal Forester eats another set of rears in one more year it gets rear discs.

the folks who were really adamant got new short blocks. I just got off the phone with my BMW rep as I am trying to get a new belt tensioner that does not make noise before my warranty ends. It sure is not easy to convince folks that you want it right. If it is only the tensioner for the timeing belt it would be cheap for them to fix. If it does not go away when it is warm it is a problem.

American I would be sitting here naked. Frankly we live in a world economy now. One of my friends is a retired FBI agent and gave me an FBI mug for Xmas. It says made in China. We have had world trade for a while now and we might as well get used to it.

stop making the noise when warm (if it ever gets warm in Alaska) I would be back to the dealer and if it was not fixed a SOA rep. I live in CA and mine still slaps until warm. Tensioners for the timing belt also have a rep for rattles.

the oil pressure runs at a max of around 70 psi. Water is usually at a max of around 15 psi. It will leak oil into the water for quite a while before it makes the nasty goo. Nothing is going to help but changing the gaskets. The good part is nobody has told me yet that there is much tendency for cracked castings on these cars.

to come out here on vacation and buy a car. The problem is that if you actually use it over there it is going to rust. I bought my dad a 70 Chevelle in Napa that was his last car. We had it rust proofed and it lasted several years before it became a rust bucket. The trip cross country is always a bit risky in an old car though. I don't know how hard it would be to get Forester wheel bearings in a truck stop in Nebraska. I once had a pain just getting a tire for a Duster I was bring back East.

When I lived in Maine every job required my cutting torch. The struts came off my 99 Forester with little effort a couple of weeks ago. Reading your efforts against the rust is painful.

engine) with a biotech doc about 10 years ago. He used to bring them. I thought they were wimpy till I tried them. They save a lot of cleanup.

people have tried to fix intra combustion leaks with stop leak for years and it just desn't work. Heck first you have around 9 to one combustion and then you have an explosion to seal. This is not even to mention combusion temperatures. The old get by with stop leak stuff sometimes required putting the radiator cap on the first notch to complely remove pressure to work, say in a good hole in the radiator. The other big stop leak failure is to try to fix a leaking water pump seal.

That seems to be another somewhat common problem and a lot cheaper and easier than headgaskets. good luck!

Say the fan switch goes off at 195. You might have a 190 thermostat. When it was cold the thermostat could cycle more because as soon as the thermostat opened the cold radiator could cool it quickly enough to start closing off the water again. This could concievably keep the fan switch at a tempreature where it runs the fan more frequently just like it keeps your heater warmer. All this could make your temp guage go up. It is not overheating until it is boiling, just running hotter than normal. These are old cars now and you will see some cooling system changes. I might try another thermostat a few deagrees cooler if it was mine. Hopefully it is not the dread head gasket.

Is this only in Perth or have all Ozs lost thier dealerships?

and it could work. I will let you guys spend the money to test it however.