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but I just called information and they still have a number for it.

at 1250 San Carlos Ave, about a block from El Camino. If you ever see the video on the History channel that was shot up stairs. The building is much the same in that area. SamTrans bought it as headquarters for pennies on the dollar when Eureka Bank lost your grandma's money.

but thier cars were usually geat comfortable easy chairs or buzzy little ants with little in between.

but now it is a bit of a worry that coolant causes environmental damage. If at all possible it should be recycled.

I hit the wrong button and posted this to a new thread rather than continueing on the mention of Delorean in the upholstery thread.

former pres of GM and inventor of the GTO and the Delorean car. When the Delorean Motor company was hard up for funds the FBI ran a sting on him offering him coke sales to fund his company. I am in San Carlos Ca in the building that used to be Eureka bank who helped to fund Delorean.

got busted. We should have a memorial in the lobby.........

I just did brakes on. I sprayed the backs of the pads with napa brake quiet, let them dry, then assembled with the grease BMW sells in small packets. I am sure auto parts stores have an equivelent. This was just changing the pad without changing rotors and I had a really bad experience with a Mercedes doing the same thing. The Mercedes squealed so much that I ended up changing pads angain with new rotors. This came out well on the Bimmer. The rain has my brake and strut job on hold on my Forester. I got three hours last Sunday to jack it up and change one strut, but then the rain began. So now I have three struts done, the rear brakes, and have not fitted the new rotors and pads to right front. Still the left side front to do. If it does not rain Thursday I plan to take a day off work and finish it. Maybe next week I can tell you how this works out. I plan to use the Napa brake quiet on the pads and run over at lunch to PEP Boys and see if I can get some grease.

boy there are some nice 2.2 Legacys for sale in this area of CA with no rust.

There are several way to approach this and I am sure some of the other folks have Subaru specific ways. Driver's seats are often the same as passenger seats but for the rails. The passenger's seats are often practically unworn. I have gotten them from junkyards and switched seats. I have taken the covers off seats from wrecked cars that were wrecked when near new. The seat base is deformed but the upholstery is often OK. Then there is the old buy inexpensive seat covers and repad. When you pull the seat apart it is easy to see the shape to make your pad. This is also pretty forgiving stuff of errors. You are going to need hog ring pliers and a good upholstery book if you choose to repad. Barge cement is often also necessary for a good looking job.

If I get my couage up I may give Amsoil a try.

piston slap so many of us have the most? In my BMW I run the factory syn changed at thier intervals. In my near 100,000 mile Forester I am running the dealer dino. Since so many high mileage BMWs get more cam chain tensioner rattle when switched over to syn I have been staying with dino in the Forester. In a high mileage late model 2.5 has anybody switched to syn, and waht happened with the piston slap?

others on the board have fitted the latest clutch and it actually works! When this one goes make sure you get the latest numbers that are out. A search of the arcives here will get them for you, but they may be superceded by then with something even better.

but usually a dry gearset gives a loud whineing sound. Maybe with the radio on....

a clutch can take quite a beating and still work. Chattering is pretty normal when cold with these cars, but when it slips change it. I've never done one of these, but I'd say easier than a Jeep, about the same as the average front wheel drive car, and harder than a front engine rear drive.

drive ratio.

My BMW has little paints marks where the last guy checked the torques. If the engine came from a wrecking yard as a core to rebuild that could also explain that. My forester has no marks.

on the engine it might have been in a junkyard at some time. They often mark bits with yellow paint.

that your dad did not hear or smell anything first. But then before my mom gave up driving she drove through town with a rear door open. She gave up driving after nearly driving into a lake in Maine and getting the car stuck on a tree. First time the cops ever called me on my mom.

thermostats you can get? After that I would block off the ducting that flows outside air in for the winter and just pick up interior air to reheat. If it is really frigid you may wish to block off part of the radiator as you have seen big trucks do to get heat. The problem there is that if you forget and go on a trip, or the weather warms up you can overheat the car. If you are a temp guage watcher no problem. SAABS and Volvos used to come with a little window blind to pull up in front of the radiator. Again the problem could be forgetting to pull it back down. I solved this problem myself by moving from Maine to CA.

Since it shrinks components stuff can howl that won't when it warms up.

with my 99 Forester I had the rear shoes done at 87,000 as they were thin. The front pads had been replaced and were fine except for pulsation. This year the Forester started squeaking and locking the right rear when cold. As soon as it warmed up it was fine. When I pulled it down yesterday I had 4MM left at the lowest point. The shoes look as though they were cheap rebuilds. I had this done at a tire shop and was not happy with the job as I think it should have lasted quite a bit longer.

I started on changing the struts and brakes on my 99 Forester this weekend. I did the rear first and along with the other weekend chores I got the rear pretty much done. It sure is a lot easier in a shop with a lift and a serious compressor, but what the heck at least this is CA so nothing was rusted on. Since there is the rule that something stupid has to go wrong with any mechanical job I got mine this weekend. When I torqued up my wheels the wheel would nearly freeze up and scrape when you turned it. I was sure I must have done something wrong as I have not done a set of drum brakes in nearly 15 years. After removing one wheel and drum again I found that the drum had a different lip to seal against the backing plate. This lip exactly interfered with the lip on the backing plate. Either it is from another Subaru model or the manufaturing specs were wrong. My error in testing was just to fit the drum over the old brake shoes and make sure it slipped over the hub. I used the old drums that were in pretty good shape, but they have been turned before. It was OK on the test run except that my brake adjustment is now off from playing with it trying to find the problem.

with the fact that these cars have to be the oddest vehicle I have ever checked oil on. I know most of you folks are used to them and have developed your own methods. I am now trying to run the car the same distance, park in exactly the same place, and allow exactly the same time to drain back to get consistant results on oil level.

probably would have waited or bought another brand myself. I was aware I wanted to stay away from the phase 1, but not really aware there were as many phase 2 problems as there are. Off the top of my head I think I have about $18,000 into my 99 Forester and I have gotten one year of wear. If I get the next several without anything major I may come out OK yet, but right now it seems that I might have done better putting the money into a newer car. I do like driving the Forester which may make up for it.