cookie

trannys and some of it depends on how much time you have to read the books and run back and fourth to places with presses and the like. Another tough part is being able to tell a still usable part from one that will go just down the road. On the subaru I would probably farm it out these days as I have more time than money. When I was a kid I just got two or three cores for next to nothing and mixed parts till I got all the best looking bit in one case. Thats when you find out that often transmissions have the same weak point.

but I am considering changing them to the Legacy type this summer for preventitive maintence.

on the coffee.

park your Subaru in the direction of Mecca and send food to a food bank for your good Karma. That sucker was doing mini boiling and came out of it fine it looks like.

draw that much. do you have a hip stereo place near you? some of those guys have serious alternators on Japanese cars. I liked the idea of the overdriven alternator pulley. It does seem that you could prettey easily make something to increase the idle. Years ago I saw cop cars in Augusta Maine that were subies. They must have solved the problem then. Somebody must still use subies for police work.

The automatics have a system to increase idle don't they? And it would seem that the AC system would have a switch that would increase idle a bit when AC is on. The AC one would probably only give you a couple of hundred RPM increase, but that might help if you ran a switch and a wire to that. All an idle control is is a solenoid and a switch.

I believe there are systems sold for Jeeps that increase idle for welding and winching. You could check a Jeep website or a 4WD mag. We used to use a hand throttle cabe for the same thing when I was a kid.

The kind of run that would get it really hot and leak if it was going to?

Get that fuse in.

and that means the phase 2 has still not been reported in a phase 1 failure mode. Unless any of you folks have heard different???

measure the tires with a piece of sting or a tape very carefully. If they are actually the same size in diameter you may be OK. As Alias says they should be the same size and make and even then they could be off if the wear is a bit diffferent.

and I find it very handy. It keeps them from being all over the car. It also puts just enough pressure on them to keep them from rattling. Thanks again to whoever told me about the bin!

since I have seen them blow on cast iron to cast iron. Rare and so would this be. This would be the first phase 2 I have heard of like this. This stuff is not new guys. They were blowing head gaskets on flathead Fords. Just nowhere near as much as on new alloy engines. I look forward to the results of a gas test and hope I am wrong.

I have a 99Forester and the local steo shop told me I needed a double DIN only. I asked here and folks told me to use a singel DIN, which is pretty much your standard stereo size, and that a cubbyhole for CDs was available to finish up the hole. At Goodguys, which is a CA chain electronics store, I went in aremed with this knowledge and they even had the cubby hole for CDs in stock. The one thing I am sorry about was that I let them fit the stereo. I should have done it myself and bought it from Crutchfield, because then I would have learned a bit.

Out back doesn't without working back and fourth. Forester fits things I haul regulary inside the car.

I took a look at the website. looks like they have done all the hard stuff. I agree that the 2.2 is a very good engine for a car like this and may have a lot more power than an original engine stock. The 2.5 is noticeably pepier though. I have never driven a modified Subaru 2.2 so I will leave that to the experts here.

My toy car is currently a BMW M Roadster as I like the reliability of the big water cooled six. I have seen Subarus fitted to everything up to an airplane in New Zealand. I am sure someone has done some sorting work on how to cool a Subaru in a Speedster? If they can get it to cool in a VW bus they must have. How are you going to work that out?

sorted this kit with Subies. If he has to do it himself I would reccomend going with a 912 engine. The VW has been made to do high HP, but has the life of a mayfly. It was designed to do 25 HP reliably. It does. When you stretch the thing it has everything fail from its magnesium case to the overheated exhaust valve on number three. By the time you replace everthing to upgrade it to take serious power you have made it into a Porsche at a heavy cost. I hot rodded these things and had a gas with them while they lasted. With a Subaru you can put out horepower for more than 100,000 miles reliably with just normal maintence. There is a reason VW bought Audi to get the designs for a water cooled engine. VW is back now from the horrible repution it gained in the 70s.

After running bugs for several years in the 70s I question this. This guy seems to be going for one of the most dependable engines available for this car. For the low mileage of a toy car it is true that a bug engine could work. If I was going to drive it frequently I would much prefer the Subie.

I had heard from friends that the DOHC 2.2 that was a one year engine was good to avoid. Rumor was that it required premium fuel, was an interference engine, and caused more problems. This was the 2.2 I was trying to recall that might not be a good choice. Waht have you heard from owners of this engine?

I just noticed that I said phase 2 DOHC. I meant phase 1 DOHC, and phase 2 SOHC. I merely plead senility. I would have to agree with alias that the six is a nice engine and I have heard a lot of good stuff about the turbo fours. I was under the impression that what was desired was a naturally aspirated four.

I think most would agree the 2.2 is a gem and maybe the most reliable engine Subaru has built. There are some late versions that had a few changes you might not want. I suggest you search the archives here. I would be tempted to go with a phase 2 2.5 if you want a four. They seem as peppy to me as the four cam phase one with more reliability. The DOHC phase 2 engine can now be made pretty reliable with the latest head gaskets. I remember a real Speedster from when I was a kid. It spent most of its time apart in the local garage. Any Subaru engine should do better than that.

horror if you are going to paint the car. Silicon leaves bubbles in fresh paint where is encountered. Best if you get as little as possible on any surface you plan to paint in the future. You can get a silicon remover to apply before painting and if you spray it on all your rubber you will need this.

the hydrocarbon test came up empty. I would have it redone by another garage. My reccomendations are for what I would do now at 50 plus years of age, not much time, and not a lot of energy for mechanical stuff. When I was broke kid I would have driven this car with no thermostat to keep it from heating up until I had the money for a head gasket set, and changed it over a holiday. I only fixed what was immeadiately broken then. As for the radiator the best thing to do would be to have it inspected by a trusted radiator shop at five years old. It should be ok if tanked and cleaned. If you are broke you clean it yourself. Inspection of the raditor happens inside of it. You have to look through after putting it in the cleaning tank and see how many tubes are thin or plugged. My father in law in New Zealand drove a mini with a leaking head gasket for several years. He filled the water each day, drove short distances, and never missed filling it. I could not stand it and changed the gasket for him.

have a fitting to test the cap. testing the cap is part of a pressure test for a good mechanic. I will be very surprised if this is not a head gasket. The fact that the guage drops then rises sudenly is important. When gas escapes into the coolent it takes it away from the sender for a moment. Thenthe coolent hits the sender as the gas escapes through the cap to the overflow tank. At that point it regesters the real temprature. Right now this gasket is a tiny leak, but it will get worse! If this was my car it would get.. 1 New radiator unless it is excellent. 2 Head gaskets 3 New hoses 4 Thermostat 5 cap if not new As long as it was down this far it would get any other service due like water pump, belts, etc. The busses I serviced ran NY to SF and I treat my cars the same way. I got 17 years out of my last Mercedes using standard commercial fleet practice for maintence, and since the payments were five years that was 12 years with no payments. At this rate you can do good maintence and still be way ahead.