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would be the next items I would check but it sounds like head gasket behavior. When you get a gas bubble the temp will go up and come back down relitively quickly. I have had leaking head gaskets drive me nuts back before the testing kits were available. There are two vehicles in my past that I never really found out why they would over heat. I must have checked the head and deck of one Ford 390 five times and the thing would still leak under certain temps and loads. The other was a Fiat. One vehicle I found a piece of a thermostat that would circle around and block the water intake only when it felt like it. One time we found a new water pump had been delivered and installed with no impellor. Check the water, it's easy.

That sounds like a head gasket, but from what I have seen here and what happened to mine the phase two usually has exterior leaks. I would run a test on the coolant to see if it contains exhaust gases. I have seen other causes for this type of behavior in other brands but Subarus have weak head gaskets on the 2.5s. Around here you can go to an auto parts dealer and get a kit to test your water. I would do this very soon as you may avoid a warped head.

When it is hot the compressor kicks in more frequently. I once had a tiny rental car in Florida that bloody near stalled when the AC cycled. If it was a Mercedes there would be a software fix shortly, but this is Subaru. If your engine is lying on the ground they are likely to say what engine? At least from what I see on this board.

They would beat the muscle cars I had in the 60s in the quarter for sure, and I think would also take my BMW M in the quarter. I think the best my M can do stock is high 13s on a good day. Probably in every day use more like low 14s.

valve gear. The first time I heard of this was reading about the Desmo Nortons when I was riding Nortons in the late 60s and 70s. But back on subject, it looks like from what you folks say we should have no fear of valve float on over revs. By the way that old International I mentioned bent every single valve. With stellite valves that cost a fortune. No holes in those tough old forged pistons though. I missed a shift on a 327 solid lifter Chevy once and put a pushrod hole through the valve cover. From what I hear from you folks I will be changing my timing belt like the pope changes his underwear.

On many vehicles with timing chains or gears extreme over reving can cause valves to contact pistons. I understand that even my M series BMW can blow the heck up if you select the wrong gear on a downshift. I have changed valves on even tough stuff like a 534 International when a guy managed to select second instead of fith. (On the freeway no less.) If one blew a downshift with a 2.2 do they ever tangle?

drive to upstate NY for major work!

I had mine done by the dealer in Redwood City and with a clutch it was around $3500 if I recall. If you are going in I reccomend doing the water pump and tensioner. when these things blow a water pump, belt or tensioner they tend to take things out you don't want out.

about Subaru being surprised at hearing of the problem. they must have to sned the service reps to acting school. Chattering clutch??? Good heavens?? (roll eyes, look confused).

and see if they would not cover this. My car was 30,000 miles out of warranty and I was not the original owner so I knew there was no hope for me. On a Chevy I have had them replace the entire engine 5,000 miles after warranty for good will. This was on one of those small V6 Chevys that everyone knew were an error, so this made it easier.

set on stun. sorry Star Trek joke just slipped out. When I had mine updated I went for the latest gaskets which are supposed to be a fix. If one of these folks with a good memory does not post the latest numbers I can look up what went into mine.

Sometimes I am locked in the past when people actually used contacts that were tough enough to take the current intead of putting what is in effect two relays in a system. All the solenoid is is a large relay after all. I have not had any trouble with mine yet in this area to discover the extra relay so this is a learning day for me too. Now if I can just remember that when I need to.....

caffine Miles.

it will have a neutral safety switch instead of a clutch lock out switch. Same procedure, or you can just put the test light you just bought on it and see if you have power on both sides when in park or neutral. The code should be a whole seperate issue. If I got that code I would clean the contacts and change the sensor.

The are a few wearing components on this ealectrical system. The ignition switch, the clutch lock out switch, and the solenoid contacts. Do you have a remote starter switch? If not go to an auto parts store and buy one. If you want to play mechanic you need some tools. While you are there get a test light. Connect the remote starter switch to the solenoid when it misbehaves. If it turns over then it is not the solenoid contacts. Then jump past the clutch lock out switch. If it works then you got off easy. If it is the ignition contacts I would consider wiring in an auxilliary starter switch if the car is old. It also acts as a theft deterrent. Just don't be like me and hop in and be surprised when it does not start till you remember the switch. The joys of aging....

baby. Were the head gaskets that failed at 258,000 the originals? Some folks had good dealers who actually changed the block for the piston slap. I have not heard of that very often though. Mine slaps so happily I have forgotten about that as an issue. My Subaru is currently behaving itself well but the BMW gets most of the miles until it is hardtop time here in CA. All of the issues I had with the car when I bought it are finally worked out. I think the replacement Sony stereo does not sound quite as well as the Clarion that came with the car but it does not skip. As long as that is my only current issue I am a happy camper.

anti squeal to the back of your pads? Most any auto parts store sells it. It will help in many cases, but I have seen very stubborn cases that only responded to turning the rotors.

it would be far more attractive to me. On other cars I might find this a detriment, but on Subies having the block and head gaskets changed would make me a happy camper. When I got my 99 I spent thousands of dollars bring it up to the standard that it should have left the factory in and someone has done that to this car. If those guys do good work this could be a very good car.

but when my 85 Mercedes spun the front crank pulley because of insufficent torque on the bolt, (I took the bolt out by hand and it should have been over 200 ft lbs) I fixed it by running the motor for short periods and using it like a lathe. I put various cutting tools from files to emery paper on the shaft exactly as if I was turning on a lathe. Be careful. If you did not have metal transfer this step would not be necessary. When I had it down to the correct diameter by measuring it with a mike I made a custom key to fill the slot. I could not weld it up as all I have is an oxy acetelene outfit at home. That would get the area too hot and kill the temper of the forged steel crank. The key I made just fit the enlarged slot and was two widths. The bottom section was larger to compensate for the wear, and the upper part that fit inside the crank damper was the stock size. To keep the timeing correct required very careful measurement and a lot of fileing on the custom key.

but mine was an external leak and all the ones I have heard of have been external. The earlier ones were internal, but nothing says that if you ran it long enough it would not blow internally. I would want this engine thouroughly tested before tearing it down. Emily, have you guys heard of one like this on a 99? I once bought a VW van with crossed plug wires from a dealer who was like this. They heard it run and said burnt valve with no furthur testing.

all he would have to do is start it up and partially release the clutch to feel the judder. If he was looking for slip he would have to drive it. I used to be a shop manager for commercial equipment. If I knew about the bulletin and the customer reported it I would not have driven the car a foot. Good customer service means start the car, let the clutch out, and if it judders change it.

When I was kid we shot them to prevent suffering. I once killed a wounded deer with a splitting hammer. I don't reccomend a splitting hammer as it is very dangerous and perhaps foolhardy, but that was what I had handy.

I really liked the 2.2 engine and my brother in law in New Zealand has had great luck with them as rentals in Queenstown. The 2.5 has been a bit of a disaster for Subaru's reputation. I only ended up with one myself because I wanted a Forester and they only came with 2.5s. If you can rent a car to a skier and get it back in one piece it is tough. By the way did you know that a ski rack is the most potent performance accessory? Ever have to pass a car with a ski rack?

whenever I go back I hear who was injured and killed. Gald you are OK and sorry about your car and the moose.

during the last big quake on of my friends was driving down 101 near the airport. He thought he had a flat and pulled over. He looked back and there were about a hundred cars pulled over looking at thier tires...... I have had a number of flats on vehicles over the years. A couple of them in high 4WDs were a little scarey, but none of them went into a roll. The Ford is just high and narrow and people think they can drive them like a car. Apparently they had tires that did not hold up well and a suspension that tended to roll if they had a flat at high speed or in a position with high suspension loading. It is a shame that those folks had to die for nothing and that is one of the reasons I bought the subie. It seems to be fairly safely engineered for this type of vehicle.