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I have seen bad EGRs cause backfires.

This eliminates accessories usually. Power steering pumps are great for noises like this.

Or does it come from under the hood?

just won't show a blown head gasket until it is bad enough to leak all the time. A lot of these things leak while hot and then cool down and hold. Even when you tear down an engine with a slight leak it can be really tough to find the spot where it leaked. I agree with TC that a coolant test is a winner. The residue stays in the coolant after the engine cools down.

and run it for a minute. Best to do it cold and not for long. Then you tell us.

on the page where your thread posted. Go to number three. Look for 2000 Legacy GT head gasket.

Now get it off there before it welds. It is trying to tell you something.

The Other Skip has a website where you can register. I have not heard of anyone very far out of warranty getting satisfaction from Subaru on head gaskets.

Wouldn't hurt to bleed it later on one of these pancakes. I used to clean the area with ether after wire brushing and prep the sender I was going to change. By prep I mean if I was going to put a line of tape or sealer on it so it would be ready to go. Many of the new ones come with a sealer on them. why did I use ether to clean? In the old days when you started Greyhound busses you had to do it from the rear with ether. I noticed the area where you used the ether was always clean and since then it has been in my toolbox. Make sure you have a socket ready for both the sender you are removing and the replacement. They are not always the same size due to production changes. Remember to have enough of the sender thread exposed to give you a good ground and swtch em.

I get 21 to 24 or so. In SF traffic this can change quickly though.

read and try a valve adjustment. If you still have compression in that cylinder this may be savable with out a gasket job. Valves wear the seats and the valve face down as they run, which is why there must be some form of adjustment, personally I love hydraulic adjusters as I have done more than enough mechanical and shim jobs to last till I die. Codes can be on for several reasons including simple stuff like loose gas caps. I hear a lot about camshaft position sensors. Do you have some place like a Pep Boys locally that will check codes? If you have adaquate money I do think head gasket and valve jobs are good insurance on these engines.

some places might do it for nothing if they get to sell you a radiator if you need it. Other place around here in SF area you would pay one shop hour. For a couple of shop hour you can buy your own testing kit, which is how I would go if I had to pay. I think I paid about $120 for the last one I had.

I run it in my M series BMW and it is reccomended by BMW and Corvette for Hi po. In some cases cars can run a much smaller oil cooler with synthetics. I'm running Dino in my stock Forester as I don't think a 2.5 is stressing much more than the head gaskets putting out this little power.

but there are very few of those cars yet. Why don't you ask Emily of CCINC. Since they are rebuilders they may know more about the rarer models.

that I think may be easy or fun. I work six days a week and have very little time to do things like this. This is why I just sold my Jeep. Now I only have two cars to wash, service, and do the occasional little upgrade. It seems like the cars or the house always demand something.

prepared me for the failure I had shortly after I got the car. By the way my car had always been dealer maintained and had all factory fluids changed on schedule and still failed. While it is true that more folks come here with problems I have frequented other boards in the past while I have owned particular types of cars. I still do frequent the BMW M and Z board on Roadfly. Just to use my last couple of cars as an example on the Jeep board I used to frequent I never saw mention of a head gasket failure, or a clutch failure that some one had not caused themselves. Jeep's other failures got lots of mention though. On roadfly I have seen one head gasket failure on a BMW in the past few years when a guy blew his water pump and drove home. When a car has a truly unusual number of failures of any item you sure see lots of mention of it on a board. On the BMW board there is no mercy given to gas guages that go nuts on overfill, seat bushing that move, and truly lousey Cd players that skip. Here it seems to be clutchs, head gaskets, oil pumps that need seals, the plastic oil seperator, and water pumps. And I do agree that it is shocking because Subaru had a reputation as being bullet proof. Hang on to those 2.2s you guys.

hp you can buy. And you are right about the cubes that were available in the 60s and 70s. But I have to say that I am amazed by the performance of these little cars. I drove a WRX in New Zealand and it was a pure blast. I am still not sure if the American version has the same power as this was a Japanese home model. The thing did not need to be optimised for the quarter with gears that gave you 5,000 RPM at freeway speeds, and it still got reasonable gas mileage and you could commute with it. Frankly I love the comparitively little trouble these modern engines give. The Fuel injection and electronics means no weekly tuning SU carbs and no points to worry about. I used to love to work on cars and it sounds like you still do!

But if it has plastic tanks on the radiator very low pressure. If you have it done at a radiator shop they should know how much to use. A head gasket test kit would also be a good investment. Do you have a warranty? If so take it back to be checked. I suspect you found out why they sold it.

In the 60s the mags used to get specilly doctored cars for test. Hand assembled and set up perfectly. The funniest had to be one test, and I forget the mag, but almost everything came on a trailer. You had Olds engineers there with the 442, Chevy guys with the SS, Buick guys , and of course the hot young Chrysler corp dudes. But Ford had Holman Moody guys there with a theoretically stock 390 Fairlane that turned about 7,000 RPM on hydraulic lifters, beat everything and blew up before the end of the test. After that things have calmed down a bit on the testing front, but the only guys whose numbers I really trust is consumer Reports. If I was an ad guy for a manufacturer you can bet the car mags got to test from me would be as hot as we could tune it and be called stock. These cars are often pre production prototypes they test. Consumer reports buys the car blind from a dealer. No chnace to see that it is anything but production.

Even if you are right there. I would start by jacking it up and listening carefully while turning each wheel. I would also inspect all related componants. These cars are known for the occasional wheel bearing and CV joint failure. On my car the same sort of noise turned out to be the plastic shield that covers the bottom of the front. One of the fasteners had broken letting it hang loose.

I was taught in a course years ago. the way t was explained to me was that you tend to get three stages of heating in an engine. Stage one would be you general dirve around town where it does not get that hot. This car would be fine for that. My wife's dad had a mini in New Zealand he drove for several years like that. He just filled it every day. I could not stand it and changed the head gasket, but that is beside the point. The second is a longer trip.This is where your car falls down. What we were told is that all componants come up to full operating heat and pressure. In this case exaust gas leaks past the gasket and replaces the water in the thermostat area and above. The engine then boils for a second and the water moves around and opens the thermostat stopping the boiling. This sounds pretty much like the other explanation. when this happens there would be a discharge of pressure from the radiator cap. A limp home fix would be to pull the thermostat. Third stage heating would be a cross country trip when everything gets as hot as it can and this is where the big failures begin. Trust me on the last one as I spent ten years running busses NY to SF.

for me it is gone. this is because after doing this much major work I would not want to leave anything there that could ruin the job. If I really had faith in the folks who inspected the tensioner I might be comfortable leaving it. As an ex mechanic I am often more paranoid becuse of things I did not change 20 years ago that came back to haunt me. If nine times out of ten it will be no problem I will get number ten every time.

The other skip just did a gasket job on one of these and has his how to posted there and a lot of other good info.

more complex. Phase ones had quite a repution for head gasket failure in the painful manner you are experienceing. The phase two is single overhead cam and has a rep for bing better about head gasket failure, but Emily at CCNC (do I have the initials right?) says more of them are coming in for head gaskets now that they are getting a few miles. The real problem to me seems to stem from the fact that they overbored this engine and left the top of the deck open. I have the latest gasket in my phase two and I am hoping for the best. On yours if it is a phase one the gaskets have been redesigned several time to try to fix this problem. Make sure you get the latest revision. You won't get this at the corner autoparts store.

then this makes perfect sense as this is phase 1 head gasket behavior. Since my forester is a 99 with a phase 2 I assumed the outback would have been so fitted.