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as I was looking for carpet for my Forester and did not find anything but the dealer.

but I have found driving a legacy wagon on winding New Zealand roads to be a very good experience. I usually have a couple of people in the car and want to make time without making them uncomfortable. The legacy does this quite well. The WRX is a boy racer that will flog most classic sports cars. Everything is very different and I don't feel the comfort and ability to relax I get in a Legacy. Both cars are fun, but are built for different purposes. My Forester handled very poorly before I added the 15% stiffer struts and the WRX rear bar. Now it is nicely balanced in a corner and drifts evenly with both ends. I am sorry to say that these are the only models I have driven, the several Legacys have been my choice as best handling for an everyday driver. I have the Forester since it fits the things I like to haul and fits better in my second car space than a Legacy.

folks in very cold climates were having more leaks than mild climates. This is really a sealer leak on these though. I think when the phase 2 gets very cold the metal shrinks more than the sealer can compensate for. Mine would leak when very cold while visiting friends in snow country and be fine in mild San Mateo CA. During the cold snap last winter a lot of Canadians reported phase 2 leaks.

direction of rotation. But you know I'm senile blitz.

with minor equipment variations but have not done it myself.

brothers in law have EJ22s in thier Legacies. One is in Queenstown and one in New Plymouth.

The part to go in the crank was as wide as the worn slot and I filed the pulley side down to stock. You just start with a large key. You must be careful to get the pulley in the correct position if it times from the front pulley.

and leaving off a hose is something we have all done. A hose can also get cracked if it is old and you move it.

That is the most common cause of a sound that goes away when the clutch is depressed. Does it make it in neutral?

I have been meaning to change my box oil as it is getting louder as the miles increase. Sometimes a better or thicker oil will quiet them for a while, but inevitably it will probably mean a new gearbox for me. I have over 100,000 now and expect to make at least 150,000 whine and all.

the easy way is to buy a horn kit like the Hella. They are everywhere. The last time I did this I just used what I had in the garage. Two horns, one from a Chevy and one from an XK140 Jag on a Chevy relay.It made an interesting dual tone and was good and loud. Junk yards are full of horns you can use.

about 90,000. I needed the new clutch kit and the head gaskets were weeping so I had the whole bloody thing done. Lets see now, plastic oil slinger replaced with steel.New exhaust pipe. On the front of the engine, water pump, oil pump resealed, new tensioner, cam seals, crank seal, and timing belt. This has made me fairly happy with the engine for the last couple of years as the only other problem has been the usual clutch slave problem that also took a master cyl on my car. I've done the usual struts and brakes and except for the tranny whine when slowing she seems ready to go for some time. I would pretty much agree with the folks who say do all the front seals and the timing belt at the same time as it is nearly the same labor to get in there.

Forester I would look at those pistons as well as open a few boxes from folks like TRW. I would also be looking for a good length on the skirt as the tiny increase in power and fuel mileage is not worth the Peterbuilt imitation on startup to me. At this point with 100,000 plus mies on my Forester the engine is holding out well but the transmission is getting more musical as the mileage goes up. I suspect I may be changing the tranny in the future but the engine may hold out till I am done with the car.

pumping the clutch about 25 times will often get it to the point you can at least drive it home. Mine needed the master cyl. I fitted the TSB slave, hose and washers and still not enough pressure. It has been fine for about a year now. Make sure you have enough fluid in the clutch master cyl of course. Bleeding is also a last resort fix sometimes, but won't last if the master or slave is on the way out.

necessary it is a real plus. The stronger you make the deck surface the less flex you get in that area. If your bore is large you may not be able to have it closed and still move enough coolant. My theory is use the toughest piece of equipment that has been proven not only to work, but work for a long period of time. I have built several very fast engines in the past that had the life of a mayfly. I am an old guy now and when I build something I want it to work and for a long time without screwing with it. The other thing I have found out is that is far easier to swap a developed system than try to do engine development yourself. Do you have the money for a hundred dyno runs blowing up eight or ten mills? I don't.

You can do this but you already have an engine that is marginal in design. If you must fit a turbo start with a successful tubo engine. You need a good closed deck,thick cyl walls, lower compression pistons, and rods and a good crank would be nice. Get a whole clip complete with engine management stuff. Or better yet trade cars.

mine always whines a bit on deceleration and has been getting louder as it got over 100,000 but is nothing to worry about. I sort of wonder about a clogged cat cutting his power but it could be a lot of things. Hard to tell over the internet.

be smog. Here in Ca smog can really be a pain unless the engine is newer than the car and has all the bits from the new engine. I had considered this as a possibility for my 99 Forester when the engine dies. Perhaps things are a bit easier in Colorado. I put a 289 in a Datsun Z yeatrs a go and built a Lotus 7 replica and both required many appointments and much patience to smog here. This has cut my engine swapping way down.

if you can't find a friend's car to compare and see if yours is healthy go to a dealer and test drive a used one. You are going to have to do a bit of work to isolate that squeak.

but my clutch sucked and my head gaskets leaked and I am fussy. I was using about a quart every two weeks that pretty much cleared up to a quart per oil change afterwards.

far cheaper and more reliable. It mystifies me that navigation is necessary to anyone with an IQ of more than room temperature.

and it leaked. The metal one is fine.

I know I am not happy about the 98 Foresters engine. The early 2.5 seems to give you high odds of expensive head gasket and valve failure. If the Imp has a 2.0 or 2.2 it would be my choice. Keep in mind there are lots of cars in the world and an early 2.5 requires a good rabbit's foot.

Leave it to a Yankee to be logical.

as did a number of other folks. Pretty much fixed it. I had the pedal hanging problem and followed the bulletin and it did not give me a complete repair. I did not have enough fluid presure from the clutch master and once I changed that too my car has acted like it should for a year or so.