cookie

but there aren't that many H6 owners out there yet, and no one I know has had any trouble with overheating at all with them.

and the person who wrote the white paper is Carrol Smith. I have been using his ideas for a while now and they work for me.

according to a quick search on the web. Most of them do leak somewhat as they get older. I have changed this part on my last Mercedes, Fords, Chevys, Toyotas, Datsuns, and some Chrysler products. Since it would be truly stupid to keep running hot water though the heater box on a hot day I assume even Subaru has a heater valve. All you have to do is open it with the ignition on to make sure that it opens if it is electrical. I think some I have seen were vacum operated, and the old ones were cable. In the last few years all I have seen wre electrical. If they are leaky it will bleed past them but why take a chance?

and off for the heater in the on position. The heater controls usually have two parts, one controls water, and one controls air. Otherwise the air can remain in the heater as a bubble. Then when you open the heater control the bubble can make its way to the engine.

they just recieve uneven deposits. The guy who did the brake work for Carrol Shelby on the Cobras, whose name escapes me at the moment, has written an interesting article on this. I have it at work if you are interested. In the heat you run and the traffic conditions where you are you may be experienceing unusual problems. If it was my car I would install new rotors and experimant with pads of a different material. My Forester had chattering brakes when I got it and I replaced my rotors and added Austrailian 4WD pads. The pads have a slot in them to increase cooling and I figure if they work in Aussie heat they will work for me. So far no problems mate,and it has been about a year and 10,000 miles.

Here in CA the Devil will be looking at snowblowers again before that is necessary. The last time he did that, I believe, was when the Cubs and the Red Sox were in the World Series.

heater is in the full on position. Heaters are famous for trapping air. Otherwise this is very similar to the way many mechanics fill a car with coolant. Other little tricks are to blast out old coolant from cavities with air if you have it. Another bleeding trick is to put your pressure tester on the cap, pump it up a few pounds, and crack the highest point in the system.

You should get a commendation!

Generally it has just sounded like a worn transmission the older it gets. Sort of an EEEEEEEEEE sound when you back off and it is still in gear. When they get like that heavier oil will usually quiet them a bit till they get more worn. By the way Adnan, you are just across the bridge from me, I am in San Mateo.

My 5 speed has been making more noise as it worked past 100,000 miles. I took the car in for an oil change and the 105,000 mile service the other day. Just too busy at work to bother myself, but I did clean the engine first to be kind to the mechanic. When the car came back the transmission acted like it had lost 50,000 miles. Even my wife who has no interest in cars noticed how much quieter the car was on decelleration. I searched the bill for a reason as nothing they were supposed to do should affect the transmission. No extra charge for anything transmission related. I popped the hood and checked the transmission dipstick and the oil was brand new. I had been planning to change the oil to see if I could cut the tranny noise and it has been done for me. The mechanic was also kind enough to leave me a note saying the car was very clean and there was nothing at all wrong with it. Since we hear so many bad dealer and mechanic stories I thought I would shanre a pleasant one with you.

I was wondering how good the mechanic's diagnosis of your car was. No quibble about the ripped boots etc. It is pretty hard to make an error there, but Subarus are known for throwing oil from several common seals. I would be tempted to steam clean the engine and find out where that oil is really coming from. The pan and even the rack could be fine and the leaks from one of the common places, like oil pump, crank, or cam seals. It could even be just the gasket on the pan. It is also possible that once you had it clean you might be able to repair the pan with Epoxy if there is a rust through.

the painful inspections. When my friends and I were in college in Augusta it was always tough to get throught the inspections with $150 cars and little money. here's my take but a lot of the other folks here have a lot more experience than I do with the early cars, and I was a truck and bus mechanic, not a Subaru mechanic. The front axle boot should be easy and cheap to fix, even a whole rebuilt axle is fairly cheap if you do it yourself. The rack is a bit more trouble to fix. You might be able to get a good used one in a junkyard. With the salt in Maine it is very possible that the oil pan has rusted if it was not kept painted. Cheap but messy. Lower ball joint boot should be cheap and little problem. The tranny will probably chatter as long as the car lasts. This may only be mismatched tires. It will certainly be several hundred dollars if you pay someone to do all the work, but it is all stuff you could do with friends. I am sure others will give you good advice.

but on a BMW most of the time the ABS light comes on it's a wheel sensor which is farly cheap. The are fragile little plastic things that are easy to break while doing a brake job. I don't think my Forester has ABS as I don't recall seeing sensors while doing the brakes, but hey, you guys know I'm senile. A couple of internet friends have had trouble with thier BMW sensors so I was very careful with mine.

find a way. My brother in law owns Pegasus in Queenstown and if you wish I could see if Norm has a line on some cheap bits. Last I knew he was using all five speeds though. Does not seem that you would want to invest the time and effort into it with that many ks on it, but the fun factor enters into it too. I personally did a number of pointless conversions when I was a kid because I enjoyed doing it.

and hose. It did not give me the results I wanted so I changed the master too. I think that was about a year ago and it is still fine.

I was just thiking about this and I recall that when alternators just came in we replaced many diodes. People did not have a clue at that time about jumping your car backwards as it often did not bother the old generator systems. The other thing was we killed some diodes in the test shop until we learned how to test them in the right manner. If a kit is available in your area for an alternator rebuild get that. We used kits that often had items you might not think of to change like brush holders, etc.

and the brushes if I recall. If it had an integral regulator we replaced that. We had the commutator turned if we were where we could have that done and checked everything for damage and continuity. If you had to clean the brush surfaces by hand I believe we used emory paper only by using a five inch long strip and pulling it back and forth in a rotating fashion around the shaft. Then you cleaned the seperators with a blade. If it had not lost a bearing you often found a shot regulator or a bad field. If it had lost a bearing you had major damage and might have to replace more than you saved.

and starters as a regular thing. alternators were pretty easy compared to generators I thought. They are far more reliable too. When I ran Greyhounds coast to coast if we lost a generator or alternator we pulled them and kept running. Since they were gear driven off the timing gears it was a good idea to pull the 50 pound or so units out and blank it off with a plate we carried. You could run all day with little drain and charge the battery a few times a night.This is one of the reasons I fit the largest battery I can in my cars. On the average car you can get at least three hours runniing at night by cutting off all unnessary electrical drain and keeping the car running.This is not the best for your battery unless it is deep cycle, but it will often get you home. The last time I lost an alternator I made it to within a block from my house and was pushing it the last bit when a couple of Mexican guys pulled up and helped me. Needless to say I bought them a beer. The other reason I use a big battery is that if your engine is failing and requires a lot of cranking you might still get it started.

and pump are no longer as efficient, and wear on the bands requires more movement before they take up. I have driven cars like this for years before they actually failed. New fluid, filters, and the pickup tube extension are good but may not entirely fix it. Anything you do to a tired transmission to get a few more miles before you have to relace it is cheap with the price of trannies thee days. I would keep my eye out for a good tranny to keep in the garage just in case.

that everyone I have met with an H6 says no problems with the engine at all. The H6 seems to have been engineered to have no head gasket problems.

Volvo fitted with already mounted spare regulator that I just had to plug in to change, and a spare altenator in the tire compartment with a lot of other bits like hoses and belts, wire, etc. One spare tire on the roof and one below the floor of the wagon. In New Zealand I had all sorts of spares in my 60 Anglia van with Escort engine. In Mexico the tool kit came out once for a dimmer switch and in New Zealand I blew a radiator hose on the uphill climb to Queenstown. Around here on short trips in CA I only carry oil, tool kit, flashlight and cell phone. All of which came in handy on the last trip to help another motorist who was stranded on the mountain above Calistoga. If you are going far and don't have a lot of money or an auto club spares are nice. If Subarus are rare in your area spares might be nicer yet. Electrics are far more reliable now than they were 20 or more years ago.

they are usually aware of what Subaru is doing.

even if you get a crummy propane torch kit it is better than nothing.If you can get the dang thing cherry it will move. God I am glad I no longer live in a salt area!

that fit right in and gave me space for a cd holder in the dash. I considered repairing the skipper but the cost was too near that of a new CD player.

but here in Ca it is now such a hassle with smog and DMV that a lot of the fun has been taken out of it.