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I am also at the point where I have to change out my head unit. When you look at sizes Crutchfield's catalog says this is a double DIN unit. Mine had the CD/radio/tape player and the CD skips so badly it is pretty useless. I figure a double DIN should mean that I can just remove it, put a single DIN in and make a spacer plate for the remaining hole. I went through this with my BMW not long ago and it is just a learning curve. I could not find reliable information on the Beemer either, but now I have two amps and 14 speakers and am pretty happy with the system. Each manufactuer seems to have thier own system to drive external Cd changers, so you may be out of luck there. Has anybody put a single DIN in one of these cars?

Mine had about 85,000 miles if I remember and required head gaskets, clutch, water pump, seals, and brakes. Have a good Subaru person inspect the car, especially the clutch and head gaskets.

is me.

We US folks may not be all that much help as sometimes we have different versions and engines. Hey Ozzies and Kiwis, help this guy out.

I had quite a number of muscle cars when I was younger. I'm 53 now and a bit calmer, but my current BMW M roadster could blow away any muscle car I had when I was a kid. I have a Subie Forester which means that I sometimes corner this phone booth like the gravel road kid I was when I grew up in Maine. Subies offer a ton of temptation. I have only driven a WRX in New Zealand and I am not sure if they are exactly the same here. Perhaps a Kiwi or Ozzie could tell us that. Those things are more fun than a barrel of monkies!! In my yard here in CA I can only fit my M in the garage, and my Jeep and Subie in the yard or I have no room for visitors. I plan to sell the Jeep this year as the Subie has replaced it so entirely I almost never drive the Jeep. After that I am afraid I may fall for the first WRX I see a deal on.

My other car is a BMW M Roadster and BMW considers it normal up to a quart per 750 miles. Of course you buy an M version to drive it hard anyway. My 99 Forester seems to be using a pint to 5,000 miles.

When I was a commercial mechanic I changed dozens of these on Ford C series. I used the same procedure. When I pumped the clutch to bleed it I was just not getting an adaquate pressure from the master. As long as I had to remove the master anyway I felt better to change it. When you adjusted the push rod you may have caused the master to give a slightly better stroke. When I was a kid with less money I would have just rebuilt the master. I also noticed deposits in my master that looked like dirt accumulation. this may mean that no one changed the fluid in the past and caused the problem. Still nearly 100,000 miles is not all that bad out of hydraulics.

So I changed my 99 Forester clutch slave, hose, and gaskets as reccomended in the TSB to the newest numbers. The clutch was still inadaquate as it still would catch near the floor and clunk back when hot in heavy traffic. I changed the master cyl and now it acts like it should. This makes me wonder if I really needed to change the slave and hose, but frankly it makes me feel better. The car has about 95,000 miles on it and since the updated clutch was installed at 89,000 the linkage has been getting progressively worse. By the way the new clutch still feels fine.