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It depends a bit on what you want but at about 89,000 I had clutch, oil seperator, rear seal, all front seals, timing belts, tensioner, and water pump on mine. I have 120,000 miles now and it has only needed one repair since. (Dealer failed to replace the pilot bearing.) I am now starting to get my money back on the major services I have done on this car. The more miles without opening the engine the better. I hope to go another 60,000 miles with no major engine work, but we'll see. I am running Mobil 1 15-50 extended service oil now and today I am taking it in for a filter change after a few thousand miles. I will do an oil sample at the same time. this will help me determine engine condition and oil interval.

My Forester turns in a regular 25 in mixed city and highway. I go down a bit when they give us the smog fuel or if traffic is very bad.

lube the door and hood hinges and follow your owners manual for service. Keep the oil changed and you will find there are many opinions on the right oil and mileage here. Watch your brake pads on a former rental until you are sure what your wear patterns are. Wayyyyyyy down the road you will need to do some work but for now watch the board to get intervals and enjoy driving it. I have a 99 Forester as my haul stuff car and enjoy it as a driver more when the conditions are bad.

several folks have posted how to do this job. It's usually the connection on the resistor, I just resoldered mine. danred if I recall how I took the clock out though, I think I popped it out with a jackknife while waiting for my wife at a store.

and if it's shakey tow it. That said many of the seals likely to leak are changed in the average head gasket job. Good luck.

But it does sound like somebody needs to look at it that knows what they are doing. Subarus are pretty odd cars but the average mechanic that works on them all the time knows thier foibles. If you can get this covered under the head gasket warranty that is best. I had it done to my 99 Forester as preventitive maintence (tiny leak) and then Subaru paid me back for the head gasket job. You might want to get normal resealing done as long as they are in there.

and check the oil and water. Yep, if its the headgasket it usually leaks coolant. It sure sounds like you need the oil leak addressed too, but if the dealer does it I am sure they will take care of that.

i've heard the same as above. The few folks I know have had no trouble at all, and if I recall correctly there have only been a couple of problems mentioned on the board here. Both of those were corrected by the dealer on warranty I think. One guy had a problem with a timing chain tensioner and I don't recall the other problem. As mentioned when they hit 100 to 150,000 i think we will hear a bit more. Now don't even ask about folks I know with 2.5s.....

because of an innate cheapness I have removed the resonator from a couple of cars when they got old and rusted. My last 85 Mercedes had a rear resonator that they wanted the price of a Hummer for. I took it to a muffler shop and had it replaced with a straight section of pipe for under fifty bucks. The car still had a cat and a muffler and it was just a tiny bit louder.

this sounds like a lot of fun. That should be a pretty peppy car and you can be proud of the work you have done!

I lt it idle long enough to get full oil pressure and then drive gently. I think you are best off leaving the heater off until warm up as it cools the water a bit. This may be tough for you frost area folks. On the rare days when I have windshield ice I leave it running while I scrape the windows for a warm up. I loved water and block heaters when I lived in Maine, we always kept the car plugged in whenever possible. These made a real difference on all the cars and trucks we had.

I was pretty nervous on the one occasion my wife had to have surgery. Best wishes for a rapid recovery for her and your nerves as well. I wonder if your exhaust being packed with snow would affect your ox sensor? It seems like that would make the cat pretty cold.

It would tangle the valves but if I were you I would change the belt at 90,000 and reseal and put a water pump on at the same time. You are wasting a bit of time and money if you do it at 60,000, but it's your car.

Wheel bearing can make different noises depending on how bad they are. First stage can be a sort of moan, then grinding and the last can be a thumping. When it get down to thumping it can toss a wheel off as well as damage the brakes. Fix it ASAP. Sometimes driving in different circles in a parking lot can help you isolate the side its on and they do get hotter than the other bearings. Noises can drive you nuts when they start as it can be a tire, bearing, axle, or sometimes even a body part.

My 99 had the plastic one ad it was alredy warped and leaking. If its plastic toss it.

Somedays I miss the fun of a new snow and a four wheel drive but not enough to move back from CA. Snow should be optional and kept at least 100 miles away when you don't want it.

it does not usually add much for measureable power but varies from application to application. Its kind of like a CAI, if the fuel is running hot and it cools it a bit, or if it improves flow in some cases you could get a bit of help from a spacer. On the average my guess is that it does not add enough hp for the cost and effort involved, but some folks bolt on a CAI and swear they have added 30 hp.

in one place and just rebent the thin one in the tunnel. That's been about a year with no more noise.

but do check to see if it could be the heated mirror short that a few cars have had. Those cars start a fire in the door if I recall correctly. It seems that this would be pretty obvious if that is what it was.

and I am also glad to hear that it was so easy.

I'm just going in tomorrow for a cap and a couple of fillings. About time I had a tune up myself. I plan to open a bottle of wine to dull the pain when I get home.

cars in Hawai. That is interesting after my friends have told me about the tin can and bondo cars that they patched together over there. I think I would consider a fiberglass body of some sort myself.

And now you don't have a car to swap parts with. In the islands all you need to do is park a car and the body will be removed magically.

to me, but so many parts can cause similar symptoms. It seems like you are slowly chasing it down.It has nearly driven me crazy to find a part that passed all the book tests and set no code. I just changed a BMW cam sensor that cured a sputter and die problem and according to my Chilton's and multimeter it is fine.You don't want to change every part on the engine to find one small sensor with an occasional failure.

To switch parts from to test? If you lived around here we could just swap a few parts one at a time. I would suspect the coil first also, but then there are two or three culprits I would look at. Since they are cheap I would change the knock sensor and the temp sensor just for insurance. After that I would look at the air-fuel sensor in the air cleaner. I don't know how your car is set up but my coil would take about 1 minute to swap.