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all you need is more vacum leak than the system can compensate for. Do yourself a favor and if you find a stock intake put it on. It will be much easier to diagnose problems and old cars have them from time to time.

That 2.2 will be alive when you are in the cemetary.

would be one of the ones with a 2.2 engine. My relatives in New Zealand have a few with 2.2s and they have been wonderful cars. Having driven them in New Zealand conditions they have pretty good power and the only place I would notice the difference in climbing hills or passing.

I don't think they got the new 2.5 engine until 2000, but if it was one of the rare ones fitted with a 2.2 it would be fine. The phase 1 2.5 is OK if fitted with the latest head gaskets, or if it is cheap enough that you can afford to have them fitted.

I have to look at a BMW soon with the same issue and I'll let you know what I find there. I bet one of you guys knows what her final drive ratio should be right? A bit of math should show what her ROMs should be at a given speed. The other point is that the tach may have been low before and the new work corrected it.

That would be my first question and my next move would be to look at the timeing belt.

even multi thousand buck M engines are rebuilt if fitted during warranty. Everything is upgraded to the latest spec on a production line. No reason to worry as it may be better than new with the latest upgrades.

in the diff. I have only heard of a couple of diff failures on Subarus and that with high mileage or abuse. The odds of three under 80,000 in one family are huge.

ground one side and touch it to the contact you wish to test with high beam on. If it lights on high beam voila! Then find low beam and the other is ground.

why I suggested a pointer if you used a ratchet torque wrench. more and more companies seem to be using this procedure.

there is a lot of clearance where the ball have been destroyed. The axle rolls forward and then falls down with a clunk. this can be just before the bearing fails in a big way. Have you ever seen a wheel and axle assembly on the road? On American cars the axle is often retained by the bearing. I'm a bit tired from four 16 hour days so I can't even think how the subaru is set up.

Is a ratcheting toque wrench. To use on on Subaru's odd torqueing procedure rig a pointer on the socket so you are sure of the rotation.

have a lot of free time. Of course I spent the last two days hanging Xmas lights on a railroad train so I shouldn't talk.

nice to hear it was simple and covered!

usually that is the easiest way to find a leak. If you don't have one put a tire valve on an old radiator cap and pump it up with a bike pump.

not much difference here in CA. It does cut piston slap unless the car is started cold on a cooler day. Did not seem to affect my fuel mileage much if at all. The biggest difference is when I start the car the second time of the day I can't hear any piston slap.

and I believe your dealer is right.

I'm getting more senile. This is also why water drains for fuel tanks are on the bottom. Sometimes I type faster than my brain works.

Look back a few pages or search on seats. there were quite a few good hints folks have posted recently.

A human that has actually seen the counter measure pistons! That seems to be as rare as a yeti sighting, but nowhere near as common as alien abductions.

in the engine computer. It may be looking for a signal it is not getting. On some models you could do a jumper wire if I recall. I think Legacy 777 had to deal with that issue on his manual conversion. You might do a search here if he does not jump in.

organic clutches that chattered. When I got sick of the chatter in my 99 I had the kit fitted that cured 99% of it. My dealer did not know the new numbers and I had to order the upgraded clutch by the number or get one just like I had. Several folks posted the numbers for this kit at the time. I would think a search would find the proper numbers, if not I still have the recipts at home. It's been a couple of years now and my clutch is still pretty good. It turns out that organics are good for vegetables, but not so great in clutch lining.

to get in there from one station or pump and stay until you run the gas out or put a can of dry gas in. If you have swirched stations and get exactly the same result odds are it is not water. If you have water stay in the gas it stays on top of the fuel. Every time you run down to the same level the car sputters. You can also have it sputter on hills when the water hits the pickup. In the winter it is most miserable when the water can freeze in the gas line. Throwing a code is when the check engine light comes on. The car computer stores the code that indicates a fault.If you unplug the ox sensor it will store a code that says faulty ox sensor. Maybe PO420. This helps a mechanic locate the problem. To clear a code is to disconnect the battery or use a code reader on clear code setting. Not all codes will clear on a battery disconnect so I am glad to hear the Subaru ox sensor will clear this way. I would follow the advice to test by disconnecting the ox sensor first I think. I and a number of others on the board have my own code reader. At under $100 it is a good investment.

that seems like a good way to test too. If it was bad gas or a knock sensor the problem would not go away. I wonder if you were to disconnect the knock sensor if this would serve as a test for that? You would have to have something handy to clear the code.

with a defective knock sensor? The only time I have had a similar problem was when the local gas station had water in one of thier tanks. The knock sensor scenario makes sense too.