LD111

That is I gathered. I will leave it out. Thanks.

Why would Subaru deliberately run the antenna wire under the driver side carpet right around the gas pedal heel area. There is even a plastic L shaped clip that curves it around the heel area. They could have easily ran it across the lower dash instead. 2005 outback.

Thanks for the info.

I have a 2005 Outback EJ253. I rebuilt the motor and flushed out the cooling system well. I used the OEM Subaru gasket kit for the turbo model including the head gaskets. I purchased 2 gallons of pre-mix blue super coolant from my local dealer. They said they don't have any conditioner listed to add. I don't think he had been around for very long and didn't even know what I was talking about. An older tech came to the parts dept so I asked him and he said that was BS warranty thing and as long as I flushed all the old coolant out, I was good with the blue coolant alone. The bottle even says required for all warranty repairs and no additional corrosion additive needed. If I am correct, the conditioner was a stop leak. I don't want to add junk to my engine. is this no longer recommended?

I don't see anyplace on the inside of the back cover for another seal to go. I guess I'll run without it.

2005 EJ253 U5

I see on the Subaru parts website there is seal inside the DS cover that goes behind the cam sprocket. I have the oils seal 806732150 in the head and there was a small foam/tape gasket on the outer backside of the timing cover where it sits against the head. I don't have any other seals. The FSM doesn't reference it. Somebody else took the timing belt and covers off. There are no pictures, just drawings of this mystery part. Does anyone know about it or what it is?

The FSM shows only the U5 (CA emissions) pistons are marked L and R.

So will both the L pistons be on the drivers side and both the R pistons will be on the passenger side? I know I am overthinking this but, I am sure that isn't how it was before.

I did a complete teardown and had heads rebuilt. I kept all my parts in order, I though. I was sure about 1 and 3 piston. I wasn't sure about 2 and 4. Might have switched them up. Kept the piston and matching wrist pin together. Kept the connecting rods on order on the crank. My confusion is on the AB markings on the case. I have 1 A and 3 B pistons. The block says the A is #1 but I had it in the #2 spot. Also there are 2 L and 2 R pistons. I have on of each on each side if the engine. The manual says the little dot faces the front of the engine. It appears both L would have to go on side and both R on the other. Does it really matter which one goes where?

I see bits and pieces on other posts but can't find exactly what I need. I had my cylinder heads rebuild at the machine shop. I need a timing kit (looks like gates is the consensus here), rings and bearings, head gaskets (I can get wholesale price on Fel-pro at Napa), and a complete engine gasket set. The machine shop is quoting $600.00 and it's mostly JDM parts. There are so many cheap sets on Ebay that I don't know where to buy. Are Cometic any good. I have read yes and no. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am looking for stock performance with good reliability.

Thanks. I agree, the valves are going to be bent. Just trying to save the pistons. The PS cam doesn't want to rotate either way. The DS is free. Your info on the crank position for the pistons to be neutralized confirms my assumptions. This being the first boxer engine I've torn into, I just wanted to hear from someone who's been there already. Thanks for the feedback.

I am in the process of pulling the engine on my 05 outback. 2.5i NA. it has high mileage and the water pump froze/melted and snapped the timing belt. I need to rotate the crank to access the flywheel bolts. How can I set the camshaft pulley so I can rotate the crank without any further damage being caused. Do I have to pull the rocker arms off? I plan on going through the motor and rebuilding it.