Kristina

I just ran it for about five minutes with the connector unplugged so good there. RPMs were a bit sporadic, but who knows how long it had been driven with the test plug connected before I got it, so maybe the ECU is just trying to figure stuff out. It is definitely flashing codes, not just flickering, with the engine running. I don't know whether this is relevant or not but I did notice that the dash ECS light flickered sporadically (it never had previously, at least not that I noticed). At the moment the ECU isn't bolted down, it's just kind of resting on the floor. Handling it would sometimes affect the dash light and sometimes not, but not the code flashing. Edited to add: Before work I jiggled the plugs that go into the ECU one at a time until something changed, then did it a few more times to confirm. Something is definitely loose, throwing the computer into and out of test mode sporadically.

Ah-ha! That is the piece I am missing, that the pump should not be running continuously. I was looking at it backwards, as if the constant sound of the pump was good/normal, and unplugging the green connector was cutting power to it some how and therefore bad. Thanks for clearing that up. This car has an interesting electrical past so it's been kind of a pain trying to figure out and learn what is what.

So now I understand that the green connector *should* be for test mode but when I unplug it the fuel pump stops. The fuel pump is quite loud and cycles every few seconds, so it is pretty obvious that it stops. I know it's normal for those first two codes to pop when the engine is stopped, but what about when it's running? From what I've read if the car is driven in test mode it will default to a *safe* limp mode. Is this accurate?

Codes 11, 12, and 33.

Right. Tried that and all it does is shut the fuel pump off with codes still flashing.

Okay, so my '83 GL Automatic Turbo wagon is stuck in test mode with the codes flashing constantly. The problem is: where the heck are my test connectors? We just pulled the cruise control, but the test connector wouldn't be wired through the cruise control computer, right? Here is what is left under the dash (the green connector is wired to the fuel pump): And here is what was pulled in relation to the cruise control: We are pretty stumped so any help is greatly appreciated. Also: I have the 83' FSM (and the Haynes manual, and the Chiltons) but the 84' has the turbo stuff. Does anyone have scans of the wiring diagrams they'd like to share? Or even pictures of another car's under-dash wiring that I could use for reference?

Nice score! +1 on the 8.8 bolts, stainless is too soft.

Nice! The map panel is pretty cool!

I had noticed that the resivoir was the same, good to know about the rest.

Oh yeah, I got the folder, so I know you did a TON of work to it. It's just old and a bunch of stuff is crapping out. The PS pump sounds like it is full of gravel and the brake booster in non-functioning, the rear shocks are blown... Just stuff like that, pretty minor in the grand scheme of things.

Thanks! At the moment the only real plan is to get it back to being a safe and reliable vehicle without unnecessary mods. Oh, and maybe some 14" wheels. I have a few pictures of it in various states of dismantled because that's the state it's spent the most time in, but none really when it's whole.

More or less... It's been neglected the last few years of its life. The outside still looks like that, but the insides are in various states of disrepair that include but are not limited to: leaking, mis-wired, not wired at all, not broken but non-functional, just plain broken... But it's an awesome car and I'm pretty excited for it to be road worthy again. I didn't realize how rare they were until I started looking for parts. And the fact that I've had five different people offer to buy it and I've only had the thing for like two weeks.

Well, we ended up replacing a bunch of vacuum lines, not to mention the turbo itself, and the next time we started it up no more billowing white smoke. Now on to the next item on the "fix it" list...

I think I was at the auto parts store when you called back. I was looking for a vacuum modulator. I didn't save your number and I don't really answer my phone unless I know the number, especially if I'm busy. Text is fine too. Good to know about the jack stands. I actually bought the wagon because I wanted a 4wd auto, so no tranny swap for me. At least not any time soon. It needs a new turbo so that is first on the list. What I really want to know is how did you pass the visual DEQ inspection without a cat? Ooops. Never mind. Just found it. We were looking in the wrong place for it.

Nice. I will keep you in mind when it's time for the Subaru's lift

Thanks!

I actually came across that a few times during my internet searching, people using ATF that way. The smoke coming from my car looks a lot like the videos I've seen of people using seafoam and other engine cleaners, which sucks for me but makes sense because all of the above burn super hot.

Thanks, I am pretty excited to get it on the road!

The good and the bad is that I don't have a cat to potentially foul up with ATF but I need one to pass emissions here in Portland. Spark plugs and tune up stuff will definitely be done. Thanks!

Like the title says, I have an automatic 1983 GL turbo wagon. I had it towed to my house due to a "massive" transmission leak. The tow truck couldn't fit up my driveway, so we (meaning my boyfriend and I) filled the transmission fluid and started it up. After a few seconds white smoke came billowing out of the exhaust but we had to get it up the driveway and behind the house. It went into 1st gear and reverse (but only briefly) so those gears appear to work. After consulting the repair manual we pulled the vacuum modulator and it had definitely given up the ghost. It was full of ATF, as was every vacuum line we checked. After replacing the modulator and a few bits of vacuum line (though in hindsight maybe we should have done all of it?) we started it up and the amount of white smoke was reduced, but still pretty bad. We let it run for a minute or so, then drove it around the block, hoping to purge the ATF from the lines. It still smoked, and with renewed gusto every time you hit the gas pedal. The woman I bought it from quite possibly drove it over 100 miles sucking ATF into the vacuum line so my suspicion is that there is a reservoir of ATF fluid somewhere in the vacuum system (maybe the evap canister?) that is causing it to continue to smoke even though the modulator is now working as it should. Does anyone have any experience with this? I am tempted to see if I can just "drive" it out but the car is not legal to drive yet so cruising down the road billowing white smoke is not something I want to do unless it's a sure fix. A few more relevant details: All this went down yesterday. Today, all the fluid levels look good and there is no cross contamination. There isn't even a drip of ATF under the car. Vacuum lines are not pouring out ATF like they were before the modulator replacement, but there is still some residue/vapor in them. Any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Hey guys and gals! I just bought a 1983 GL Turbo wagon and since I am going to be asking a ton of questions about it, I figured I should introduce myself first. I'm a first time Subaru owner, but I've already learned a ton from lurking around on this forum before purchasing my wagon. It has some issues but I am excited to figure them out and learn how to fix them. Also: it looks like I just missed all the fun at WCSS. Maybe I'll make it next year!