trxeslr66

I'm not sure how similar they are, I took my 99 legacy heater/ac unit out to replace bulbs and disconnected the cable at that time. I re-installed it myself without any manuals easily. Do you mean the cable is disconnected from the back of the heater/ac unit in the dash? Have you pulled the heater/ac unit out?

I had the same problems as you with hesitation, I added all the things you did, except I did not use seafoam. I drove for maybe 6 months and the hesitation got worse, I ended up fixing it by having the throttle body cleaned. Subaru's get gunked up after about 60k. Higher quality fuels and additives temporarily help because they burn better and hide the problem. Some things can cleam it with chemicals but wont remove everything. Physically cleaning it may help you.

I get 23 with lots of stop and go in a 99 Legacy 2.2l. At 68k miles I have recently replaced plugs, pvc valve, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body, added Fram AirHog(same as K&N) filter, replaced started contacts, transmission filter/fluid change(every 30k), and I have ran Mobil 1 since new. Prior to these tune up measures I got 18-19 city. I am very happy with the improvment. Hiway now can get over 30 compared to my previous 24-26.

in a 99 Legacy 2.2 I was getting 18 or 19 city with paper a paper filter. Changed to Fram Air Hog, (Same concept as K&N) for $45 and it made a power differance AND mpg differance. When I drive it easy I get about 23-24 city. Highway gets into the 30's. I Never hit 30 with the paper filter. If the filter is too saturated in the oil spray it could cause the reverse effect this filter is supposed to have. Have you resolved this problem yet?

I had a similar problem. I'm not clear if your having the hesitation when already in motion or not. Mine did it when taking off from a red light for example. Also sputtered when driving at a low speed in a parking lot or similar situation. I had the throttle body cleaned. It seems to have helped alot but after having it cleaned the check engine light came on. And it came on at a very convenient time, at the beginning of a 250 mile trip. Light went out after 250 miles and stayed out for the drive home. Came back on and off since then. Going to get codes from the mechanic next week. What a pain in my rump roast. Our mileage is the same also which makes me think it could be the throttle body. Its easy to do yourself.

I have a Fram AirHog air filter which is the same as a K&N. It fits perfect in a 99 Legacy 2.2, the price was about $5 less than K&N.

I installed a OEM Subaru fog light kit on a 97 Legacy over 2 years ago. Worked fine till now. Seems to be a short somewhere as when i move the wires they turn on and off. I checked all T connections and they seem ok. I'm out of ideas after playing with it for an hour. I dont know how many hundred dollars it will cost at an auto electric dealer to get this fixed. If I had to guess, it seems the problem is in thw wiring harness. Does anyone have any clue about this??

I called my mechanic and have an appt for tomorrow. He said the subaru throttle get gunked up and causes the hesitation. I dount I will be lucky enough to fix this just by having him clean the throttle but I will post an update after he tries that. I found some more info when searching for hesitation, only suggestions to replace expensive parts though. None of which guarentee a fix. The manuals someone placed on this site said my engine (and most subarus) idle between 600-800 rpm. Maybe my idle isnt low but the 2 times it stalled arent good, and the hesitation is annoying.

Are there any diagrams online where I could find all of the air hoses to check for bad connections?

Just today I noticed a 750 rpm idle and stalled on my 2 mile ride home. I didnt do anything different today. Over the past few months I have noticed a little "sputtering" or hesitation when taking off from a red light. That started around the time I installed a Fram AirHog air filter. Anyway the main problem is the stalling. Its a 99 Legacy 2.2L 68k miles, no previous problems. Please help!! UPDATE: NO PROGRESS, tried checking tubes, all seem in tact. Filter is in securely and closed properly. The Fram AirHog is the same thing as a K&N Air filter. This should give it more air than it needs rather than less. Whats a normal idle? mine is still at 750. UPDATE: CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON-took car to my mechanic, he cleaned the throttel body. 30 miles later my check engine light came on. Idle is still low. After driving a straight 200 miles it stayed on. after 2 trips around town, a few miles later it shut off. came home from the trip 225 straight, check engine light still off. drove it later in the evening and the annoying light is on again. Mechanic on vacation, how canvenient. Wont be able to get the codes off till next week. Any ideas???? Please help!!!!!!!

Yeah I get this also, specifically when turning into a drive way where the road is a slight slope (as the suspension is moving). Seems mine does it when turning and the suspension is moving. I look forward to hearing if anyone else has found a solution.

Thanks a lot for the quick replies. I think I might look at new batteries this weekend. I had the alternator rebuilt 1.5 years ago so I hope it isn’t the problem. The car has 62k miles on it. I had a starting problem which is what brought me to this site in the first place..... It started out happing rarely...turn the key and nothing happens, turn the key the second time and it starts fine. This started happening more and more over a few month period. Sometimes with weeks in between when it wouldn’t do it. No one in town had an answer but some one on here described it exactly. I started to think it was attributed to cold weather, but some of the coldest mornings it would start. There was no pattern except that it was happening more. Eventually it would require me to turn the key more than 2 times. When I turned the key and got nothing, I could still hear 1 "click" I believe from the started solenoid. I replaced the contacts and plunger in the solenoid and 3 weeks later it as started every time with out a problem. Only time will tell me if the problem is fixed for sure. One other note on the battery, a few months ago I moved. Now I am a half mile from work. So I start my car 2 or 4 times (depending if I go home for lunch) and it gets minimal charging time. And as for the oil, I have been running Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w30 for a few years. One question, when you all say -25 are you saying 25 degrees or negative 25 degrees. I'm about frozen in 5 degree weather; I can’t imagine my car starting in negative 25 degrees. Thanks again for the feedback

It is about 5 degrees here and when I start my Legacy it turns over fine but starts like the battery is almost dead. Is anyone else having the same problem? I thought it was dying last winter also but when the weather warmed up it was ok. It is the original battery from a 99. When I started it cold last night and this morning it scared me it sounded like it wasn’t going to make it. When I started it after it was warmed up and I had been driving around it was better. I'm very afraid it is going to fail me soon. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. UPDATE -I went to Autozone to get a free test and they said the battery was not fully charged. Since it wasnt fully charged they couldnt give me Cold Cranking Amps. I assume its because of its age. I already had the alternator re-built a year ago, I dont want to have to replace it again because it is being overworked. So I went to Sears to get the DiHard Gold (#1 for battery size 35 foreign cars by consumer reports) and damn, my old battery did suck. It starts like its summer time now. I am very glad you all suggested a new battery. Thanks for the prompt advice.

Ok so my new calulation is about 21-22 MPG which is better than I thought I was getting but still not fantastic. Thanks.

I have the same car and have removed the rear seat many times. For routing speaker/amp wires you only need to remove the seat bottom, not the seat back. For this, all you need to do is remove the 2 bolts just below the seat. These bolts are fully exposed but I dont quite know how to describe where they are...They are just below the seat where your feet go. The back of the seat bottom is secured by hooking to the seat back. Push down around the center of seat where the seat belts come up and pull the seat bottom toward the drivers seat. All this will take you less than 1 minute.

Hi, I just joined the site today. I spent a few hours browsing through it and think the depth of what is covered here is fantastic. I was able to find answers to questions I had immediately. I have a random starting problem and SmashPDX described the exact symptoms I had so I replaced the contacts and plunger in my starter solenoid. The contacts were worn quite a bit but theres only 62000 miles on the car. Only time will tell if it corrected the problem. I am currently having a problem with water getting in the drivers side headlight of my Legacy. I took it off and blew it out with the shop vac over a month ago and just this week it has water again. The junk yards want $100 per light and there is a poor selection. The online stores are pricy also. When I took the light off I tried to take it apart to refresh the seal but couldn’t get it apart. I would like to avoid buying a new light. Does anyone know how to fix this problem? Another thing I am wandering about is gas mileage. I am surprised and jealous of the 25+ mpg some of you are getting. My 99 2.2L Legacy gets less. I don’t know the exact mpg because there seems to be 1/4 tank left when I hit E. When I was doing out of town highway driving I got 400 miles to the tank. That was the only time that happened, probably because it was all flat driving. Around my area it is not very flat and lots of stop and go so I get 300 miles to the tank which I think is somewhere around 20 mpg. What are you guys getting per tank? Any suggestions on how to improve gas mileage?

Check eBay. I got my set of OEM fog lights there for around $100. I checked eBay every so often till I found some so if they dont have any now keep checking back.