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About bodhicheetah

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  • Location
    red feather, colorado
  • Biography
    american buddhist, subaru enthusiast
  • Vehicles
    97 outback sport, +300k and still tickin'!

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  1. Thanks for the offer! It's a 6 hour round trip for me, but I may very well do that. I'll PM you if that's what I decide.
  2. Thanks for the replies! Gonna think on it for a bit I guess, see if I can find a compatible OEM Cat. I could straight pipe it if need be because I live in an emissions exempt area currently, but when I move I’d have to pass inspection. Why’d they discontinue the OEM Cats? Are there other/newer Subaru Cats that are compatible for my car?
  3. Any info specific to the EJ22 catalytic converters and O2 sensors from those with experience and/or knowledge... much appreciated... I have a '97 OBS, EJ22EZ, apx 340,000 miles on it. Had a blown HG and recently re-sealed just about the entire engine (HGs, valve covers/stems, rear main seal, oil separator seal, oil pan seal, oil pump seal, yada yada yada). And of course the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets. Had the P0420 code before I re-sealed the engine but didn't really care. Now that I did all that work, I want it gone I know I could have done a bunch of testing... but.... I was just going to start with replacing the front sensor to see if that was the problem. However, the old one is seized good and proper. Now that I have to drop the front Cat to try and get the old O2 sensor off (A/F sensor? people seem to call it both...), I'm going to order a new Cat to have on hand in case the old Cat is indeed bad. Questions are: Aftermarket part number for the front Cat? Or both front and rear for that matter? OEM is discontinued. This one from Eastern Catalytic seems like the right one for the front, but I guess I'd have to plug the downstream sensor hole as the OEM one doesn't have that hole. Should I bother replacing the rear Cat? How often do they go bad? Or even if they do, if the front one is working, does it matter? Are the upstream and downstream sensors the same for this model year? They look the same, but I can't find a definitive answer on that. I'll probably replace the rear sensor just to be safe. I went with a Bosch 13445 (supposed to be same as Subaru 22690AA220) which I'm pretty sure is the right one for the front, but I'm not sure about the rear. I know for most cars, the upstream and downstream sensors are different, but they appear to be the same on this car. Anyway....I searched around but couldn't find a good write up or whatever specifically about EJ22 Cat/O2 sensor problems/fixes/part numbers... so I thought I'd ask here. Thanks in advance!
  4. Deleted my post...posted new topic...
  5. Lol, fair enough! I bought the NGK BKR6E-11 plugs, which are actually the recommended plugs from the factory service manual (I just recently downloaded). And yea the FSM recommends a gap between .039 and .043. I checked the NGK's gaps with feeler gauges and they are all at .042 dead on. I don't think I'll bother trying to gap them one more thousandth, but maybe. Cheers ya'll
  6. 11 years later...just wondering why .045 when you just said it should be between .039 and .043? Cheers!
  7. bodhicheetah

    Stone Ishino Head Gaskets

    (EJ22EZ engine, 1997 Impreza OBS) Thought I'd post these pics of the head gaskets I got off of ebay if anyone else was on the fence about getting something from Stone Ishino. I took a gamble on this kit after reading that Stone Ishino is an OEM supplier/distributor (manufacturer?) for Subaru. A pair of OEM gaskets alone were going for about $80 and this kit was only $115 so I went for it. (I noticed the same kit is also available on PartsGeek). Anyway, they look legit. Part number for the kit was W0133-1609342OEM (OEM part number for just the head gaskets is 11044AA114)
  8. Really? I guess that would explain it. I figured someone got the wrong gaskets (like for a DOHC or something) and just tried to make them work... I could see them getting puffier but wouldn’t have thought they’d lengthen that much....
  9. Been an interesting ride. Went with the one-piece tensioner because I couldn't be bothered to run to town (2hrs round trip) to get the bracket. The old tensioner actually seemed fine, but I changed it anyway. I'll sell the other two-piece one on ebay, no biggie. All the rollers' (pulleys, whatever) bearings definitely seemed worn. They spun freely (as opposed to the new ones which are a little stiff...), had a bit of play to them and made a little bit of noise, so I'm glad I got those with the kit too. Water pump seemed fine, but changed it anyway. I think the belt may have been changed at least once because the cover gaskets were the wrong size, unless they somehow magically expand in length. They were like an inch or two too long, and the previous person had just squished em in there all wonky which might explain why my cover was rubbing slightly against the crank pulley. I cut sections out of them so they fit properly. Gonna buy a new middle cover and gaskets when I do the head gaskets... Yep, head gaskets. The whole reason I decided to do the timing belt now was because my radiator started leaking and the engine overheated, and I knew it'd be easier with the rad outa the way. I was naively optimistic that it was just the radiator causing the over heat I bought a new rad and t-stat, and then decided to do the timing belt as well. I've since done a bunch of reading about HG symptoms and mine are pretty classic, wish I'd known. After I got it all buttoned back up and went to burp the system, coolant started boiling and steaming out of the filler cap before the fans even had a chance to come on. Then I rented a "block test kit" just to be 110% sure but couldn't use the damn thing because the coolant kept bubbling up through the rad cap and contaminating the tester, even though I drained the coolant down significantly. I guess I'd have to use one of those 2 level jobby jobs.... Anyway, I'm kinda lookin forward (in a weird way) to doing the HGs. Will be satisfying if I can pull that off, and I actually have access to an engine lift and mount, so I think I'll pull the engine. (And yes, do all the other gaskets/seals and have the heads machined, etc, etc, The main thing I'll be looking for now is the jdmfsm head gasket torque procedure for an EJ22EZ...hint hint. Anybody got a lead on that? Other than that there's a lingering question about the possibility of the heater core causing the overheat...but everyone seems to say it's always the HGs... Anyway, Here's those photos of my old belt... And the new one installed.. Now I get to take it all apart again, lol. Oh, and I went with 130 ft/lbs for the crank pulley. Cheers
  10. Oh, and thanks for the info, and the scary pics! And yea, I might try like 110 ft/lb for the crank pulley. I actually replaced the pulley a while back... but of course now I can't remember what I went with at that time. G'night!
  11. So I hadn't actually got in there yet when I posted earlier. Man o' man, that belt was old. I don't actually know how many miles my subie has on it, as I found an auction report for it after I bought it (3 years ago). It had about 65,000 less miles when I bought it than it did 7 years earlier when the auction report was created... 212,000 when I bought it, and 277,500 on the report. The report had pictures of the odometer. Either someone rolled the miles back on purpose, or had to change out the dash cluster for some reason. I'm sure it has at least 300k as I've already put another 35k on it. All of that is to say, I have no idea if or when the timing belt was ever ever done. I'll post pics of it when I get a chance to load them, but I suspect that it might have been the original damn belt. I'm counting my blessings that it didn't fail on me. I already have the Aisin kit, as well as the correct OEM tensioner from the dealer (woulda got it on ebay for cheaper but didn't have time), so I'm just going to go ahead and replace it all. The Aisin stuff seems legit and if this car lasts another 100k I'll be stoked. Small price to pay. I got as far as taking it all apart, gonna pick up where I left off tomorrow. Already feelin' pretty satisfied Cheers.
  12. Yea, this has been driving me bonkers. I bought an Aisin kit and all the parts websites said that my 97 OBS had the "pencil style" so that's the kit I bought. I had luckily read one comment on Amazon about the two different styles and I asked the parts guy at my local dealership which one he thought I had and he said I definitely had the one-piece style. Lesson learned, call the damn dealership and ask them to search for whatever part I need, by VIN. Now I have to try and sell the useless tensioner that came with the kit. Also, this whole 105k vs 60k timing belt interval thing has been boggling the hell out of me. I called a dealership in California (Elk Grove Subaru) and they said that they always change the belts at 105k, across the entire state. Now, do you think that every Subaru vehicle in California has a special different timing belt than all the other 49 states? No F****** way This means that unless there are tons and tons of Subaru timing belts snapping left and right between 60k and 105k, all across California, that Subaru belts in fact last at least 105k miles. The proof is in the pudding! Oh yea, and the other confusing thing was the torque for the crank pulley bolt. Some people say 70ish ft/lbs others say 90ish ft/lbs. Again, call the damn dealership. Call 3 dealerships if you have to. Peace!
  13. 97' Impreza Outback Sport, M/T. My problem was that the vacuum hose had come lose from (what I think is called) the servo. Popped it back on and presto, working like a champ. I think I jostled it loose when I was replacing my reverse light switch a couple of weeks ago. Checked the clutch pedal switch too, and the rubber stop thing is definitely about to wear out, so yea good to know... https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7MHjvmyKytcVk9MNkNSQjQ2eWc/view?usp=sharing
  14. So I am posting this here in the hopes that it will be easier for someone else to solve the problem I just had. It took me way more googling than I would have expected. So, my horn would not sound even though when I pressed the horn (airbag) I was getting 11 or so Volts at the wires (13 or so if the engine was running). And when I jumped the horn directly to the battery (the horn's black grounding wire had to be connected) it would sound. It was driving me nuts. Finally figured out that it might be the horn relay, which is conveniently (not!) tucked behind the fuse box, under the driver side dash, on the left. You will have to remove the lower dash (easy) to get to it. Even though the relay would click and click and click when pressing the airbag, it was still bad. I swapped it out and voila, the horn works again. Here is the best description/pictures I could find of the relay location. It's red with 3 orangish-red wires going to it. Mine was tucked behind the fuse box and I gently pulled on the relay to get it loose and then fished it out. Hope this helps.