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Adding 50% Redline Lightweight Shockproof makes the synchros work even faster. Just don't try to drain it cold.

Hi all, new poster here. I know my way around an Impreza well, but the old school stuff is greek to me. In spite of this, I'm looking for an inexpensive Brat to get me through my first winter in Reno, Nevada. Inexpensive of course, means not quite working perfectly. I found a possible candidate in Truckee. It's an '82 with 160k on the clock, and the ad says it needs a fuel pump. Also says "recent tuneup" so I figure that means the plugs, filters, cap, and rotor are new. All I'm concerned about is being able to drive it all the way home to really get the maintenance done. So my question is, can I reasonably expect to quickly and easily replace the fuel pump in this guys driveway? If I have the FSM to work with (I don't mind getting one, or better yet downloading it from Subaru) I can get it done in the time the manual says it should take. Is there a likelihood that the fuel pump could have caused problems with the engine, like leaning it out and possibly causing damage before it failed entirely? Anything else I should be prepared to make right before attempting to drive it over 7500-ft. high Donner Pass? Thanks in advance fellas!

"Warped" rotors are almost always the result of pad deposits rather than physical warpage of the discs from overtorquing. The trouble with automatics is not being able to lift your foot off the pedal when you come to a stop, especially from higher speeds like you see on rural highways that have the occasional traffic light on 55 or 65 mph roads. Even a single high-speed stop can fade inexpensive pads meant for long life. If you can remember to bed your pads in properly and try to stop smoothly and gradually, and let the brakes slip just as you come to a stop, you can reduce pad deposits.